New Springs/Struts/Shocks installed, any recommendations?

hognutz said:
I had my car alined right after my install and the tiers wore just fine.

I would get subframes for sure. Lower control arms for sure.

I have the same setup as you with MM spherical rear control arms, full length subs. A guy at work as 98 328IS. His car rides smoother but as far as entry speed into corners and things the cars are about the same now. I mean I can hit 25mph off ramps at 60mph without going into a four wheel slide now.

I may add the panhard bar and torque arm later but I am content for now.

I will say the subframes and cortrol arms added another dimention to the handling of the car.

how much have you spent on your suspension thus far? or actually, how much were your individual parts/labor if i can ask?
 
i personaly would not worry about installation. just about everything can be done in a weekend even for the novice. subframes need to be welded so that takes labor (100-180 is what i have seen people pay) the springs, dampers, LCAs, and panhard are all fairly simple the PHB being the most dificult being that it requires you to drill, while everything else is close to mindless.

the biggest thing is making yourself understand you are not going to break anything and you should be fine. it just takes time thats really it.

www.maximummotorsports.com
www.stangsuspension.com
www.evolutionmsport.com

those three sites are about the best you can find for prices, ebay has very little once you are done with springs, CC plater, and shocks and struts.

Torinalth
 
Torinalth said:
the rear swaybar is possibly a good choice, however i am not convinced of this, and that is why i have left it out. being that the panhard bar alters the roll center i am beginning to think that the lower rear swaybar is adequate. i will however be looking into getting an UPPER rear brace as i think that with this addition the lower will have no issues at all.

Test it before you rate it. I have came to the conclusion (In my old care that a solid swaybar is better with the PHB insted of the stocker.

*Edit* See how far your stock swaybar lasts with a watts linkage or PHB.

Torinalth said:
you are entitled to your view, which you stated. and i stated mine. we just have differing thoughts of importance.

Torinalth

View? it's called experience.
 
Torinalth said:
the springs, dampers, LCAs, and panhard are all fairly simple the PHB being the most dificult being that it requires you to drill, while everything else is close to mindless.


Ever see the instructions to the PHB? I would hardly call it fairly simple, 69 steps is not simple.
 
i have read the instructions a few times, and will again when I install mine. possibly the mechanics of it just comes easier to me, but i do not seee it as that much of a conundrum.

as far as my thoughts on the swaybar, i will see if i am correct or not if/when the swaybar breaks. i assume that with your experience the swaybar broke when you added your panhard, or shortly down the road? I do not presume to know everything as i have not seen everything.

I am looking forward to seeing if the rear tower brace will keep everything in line with the panhard bar, or if you are correct in that it will not holdup/flex too much. everything is speculation till you have a problem or have multiple people with the same conclusion. partly why i am going the route i am going is to test it. just as it appears few people have used the evo trilink, and of them i cant find anything that has it with a panhard bar.

Torinalth
 
How much did you pay to get all of those installed? It was deff a job you could have done yourself to save yourself ~$300. Me and a few of my friends did it in 2 hours and a 12 pack of beer. :nice:
 
Torinalth said:
i have read the instructions a few times, and will again when I install mine. possibly the mechanics of it just comes easier to me, but i do not seee it as that much of a conundrum.

How do you know how hard it is if you haven't done it? Hands-on is nothing compared to on-paper.

Torinalth said:
as far as my thoughts on the swaybar, i will see if i am correct or not if/when the swaybar breaks. i assume that with your experience the swaybar broke when you added your panhard, or shortly down the road? I do not presume to know everything as i have not seen everything.

The stock swaybar WILL break under heavy load, or even mild load at that. It is known to happen very commonly. Especially with a beef'd suspension.

Torinalth said:
I am looking forward to seeing if the rear tower brace will keep everything in line with the panhard bar, or if you are correct in that it will not holdup/flex too much. everything is speculation till you have a problem or have multiple people with the same conclusion. partly why i am going the route i am going is to test it. just as it appears few people have used the evo trilink, and of them i cant find anything that has it with a panhard bar.
Torinalth

Do you have a pic of this rear tower brace? I have never seen one before. Or do you mean torque boxes?
 
there are two that i know of for the rear STB, one is snow performance that is not necessarily a TRUE STB... it connects to the fender wells on each side about 1.5in rear of the struts.

the other is the kennybrown unit that is a true rear STB... with them redoing their site you cant take a look at it, and i have not seen it listed anywhere with a picture. closest comparison is the steeda rear STB for the 05, though the KB unit for the 99+ looks a bit stouter. I origionaly heard about it here on SN, though i think it was nearly a year ago.

also, since you mentioned torque boxes that does remind me. have you had any issues with your setup and the torque boxes cracking at the welds, or the LCA connection tearing?

Torinalth
 
AmBo said:
How much did you pay to get all of those installed? It was deff a job you could have done yourself to save yourself ~$300. Me and a few of my friends did it in 2 hours and a 12 pack of beer. :nice:

I paid $229 for H&R Super Sport springs, $469 for Bilstein struts/shocks, $199 for Maximum Motorsport caster/camber plates, and $280 for labor (struts/shocks, springs, caster/camber plates), and $49 for alignment.
 
Very Nice!! Definitely get the SFC on next. Do that by itself. Get full length with cross braces and have them welded. I went with the Steeda race ones and Man what a difference. It feels like a totally different car because my vert flexed so much.

I have heard a lot of good things about the KB x franme and MM SFC's.

Do you have any problems with bump steer after the drop?
 
cavepony said:
Very Nice!! Definitely get the SFC on next. Do that by itself. Get full length with cross braces and have them welded. I went with the Steeda race ones and Man what a difference. It feels like a totally different car because my vert flexed so much.

I have heard a lot of good things about the KB x franme and MM SFC's.

Do you have any problems with bump steer after the drop?

What's SFC? sorry I don't know too much about suspension :p

what is bump steer? i'm still learning.
 
SFC - Subframe connector. look at that site i suggested that you look at to learn, it explains it there i believe.

Bumpsteer becomes a concern on a lowered car. what happens is that with the car lowered when you hit a bump the camber of the tire changes thus pushing you to one side or another, even if the wheel does not move. its also refered to as "suspension steering"

Torinalth