No, it does not. The only light on with key on, engine not running, is the Low Coolant light.
New to Mustangs from Central VA
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I would think there is something up with that, first check if the CEL bulb is good.
That may be a hint. What else was rigged.
That may be a hint. What else was rigged.
It was working because when I drove the car home because it came on for a few seconds at one point. I thought it was related to the idle problem or bad fuel, etc. But the light did illuminate, so I don't think it was disabled.
You'll love this. I went to find the OBD1 connector and it wasn't there. So I removed the passenger side inner wheel cover and found the wiring for the connector had been capped off and put in the wheel well. It was at least capped off neatly.
Lets assume the wires are still functional. Can I still perform this test by tying the right 2 wires together? Does anyone have a diagram for how the OBD1 connector was wired so I can figure out which two wires I need?
Edit: I see the linked page has the diagram further down. I'll see if I can uncap the wires and get this to work.
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So it turns out the OBD1 Connection port has not been capped off. I found it on the driver's side between the battery and the fuse box, under the windshield washer fill. But it doesn't match the wiring diagram that was linked above.
-There are only 3 wires going into the OBD1 connector: green, black, and orange with white stripe. Both green and o/w have 12 volts.
-The self test connector has 2 wires, both black with white stripe.
I was not able to make anything work pulling codes. If anyone can offer some advice or suggestions on next steps, I would really appreciate it.
-There are only 3 wires going into the OBD1 connector: green, black, and orange with white stripe. Both green and o/w have 12 volts.
-The self test connector has 2 wires, both black with white stripe.
I was not able to make anything work pulling codes. If anyone can offer some advice or suggestions on next steps, I would really appreciate it.
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Other thing is I thought your test port was behind the passenger side strut tower. Makes me wonder if someone extended the wires.
View: https://youtu.be/ztz7mfDs45k
View: https://youtu.be/ztz7mfDs45k
Correct. According to everything I read, it should be behind the passenger side strut. So the wiring is definitely not the same as stock. So I'm really not sure where to go from here.
85GTStangGuy
Advanced Member
Huh?.... to me, his doesn't look anything like yours. Agree with the different colors, but I'm seeing a different number of wires. Yours has 4 wires, plus the 5th in the grey connector.... his only has 3 wires total. And the connector is a different shape. Going from memory, but I think his looks like the diagnostic connector that is on my 85, which is under my brake booster. His appears to be on the driver's side also, albeit more towards the front of the car.
I should have been more clear in stating that only three ports are being used which is like mine. I still think someone moved it and just extended the wires but I don't think they did it correctly. This is a picture of one in a 94/95 car and it has more wires:
I would start digging around over on that side of the car and see if you can find the wires over there. Can you find your self-test input port (single gray connector) over at the battery with the self-test connector (triangular black connector)?
I would start digging around over on that side of the car and see if you can find the wires over there. Can you find your self-test input port (single gray connector) over at the battery with the self-test connector (triangular black connector)?
Update: I thought I had checked all the fuses related to the CCRM/EEC, but I had missed one. Under the dash, Fuse #18, was blown. I'm not sure whether this fuse runs to the CCRM or the PCM. Either way, it was blown. So I put a new one in, and it immediately blew that one too.
What does this tell me? A short somewhere? Where should I start looking?
What does this tell me? A short somewhere? Where should I start looking?
Quick search and found that according to a 1994 EVTM fuse 18 feeds power to the following:
Instrument cluster
Transmission control shift module
CCRM
Ignition switch
My guess is you have a short to ground. You will need a copy of an EVTM to get the wiring so you can trace it out.
Instrument cluster
Transmission control shift module
CCRM
Ignition switch
My guess is you have a short to ground. You will need a copy of an EVTM to get the wiring so you can trace it out.
I was finally able to track down my wiring issue. I ordered the EVTM from Summit. Thank goodness there's a company that still prints them for these vehicles. I looked on Ebay and its ridiculous what some people are charging for a beat up old used one. The new one was only $40. Anyway...
After tracing the wires on circuit 18 around and lots of testing with a multimeter, I was able to find the issue. The prior owner had installed a BBK cold air kit. One of those that puts the filter in the passenger's side fender. When they installed it, they pinched the wiring between the fender and the air kit assembly. After enough years of rubbing, it finally cut through the insulation on a few wires and was causing a short to ground on the Red with Green stripe, which feeds into Pin 13 on the CCRM.
The wires themselves were fine, so I put some electrical tape on and I think that will be all that is needed. Now, I just need to figure out how to make sure everything stays where it should when I put the CAI back together.
@AeroCoupe - many thanks for hanging with me and for your advice!
I still have quite a bit to do on the car, but that was a big relief to solve that one. I still haven't actually fired the motor up because I have some other things taken apart that I'm working on. But now when the key is turned the Run position, the fuel pump primes (that was music to my ears), the Check Engine light comes on as it should, along with the other warning lights on the dash. So definitely a victory!
After tracing the wires on circuit 18 around and lots of testing with a multimeter, I was able to find the issue. The prior owner had installed a BBK cold air kit. One of those that puts the filter in the passenger's side fender. When they installed it, they pinched the wiring between the fender and the air kit assembly. After enough years of rubbing, it finally cut through the insulation on a few wires and was causing a short to ground on the Red with Green stripe, which feeds into Pin 13 on the CCRM.
The wires themselves were fine, so I put some electrical tape on and I think that will be all that is needed. Now, I just need to figure out how to make sure everything stays where it should when I put the CAI back together.
@AeroCoupe - many thanks for hanging with me and for your advice!
I still have quite a bit to do on the car, but that was a big relief to solve that one. I still haven't actually fired the motor up because I have some other things taken apart that I'm working on. But now when the key is turned the Run position, the fuel pump primes (that was music to my ears), the Check Engine light comes on as it should, along with the other warning lights on the dash. So definitely a victory!
Well, I guess I should start by putting everything back together from finding the wiring issue. Then I'll reinstall the air intake and figure out how to make sure this issue doesn't happen again.
The other problem that needs to be solved before running the engine is a melted A/C line. I believe its the high pressure line. It was so close to the exhaust header (passenger side) that it melted through the braided line, though I think it didn't quite melt all the way the way through, meaning there is still refrigerant in the system. I haven't given much thought to it yet. I'll probably start another thread on that issue, when I get to that point.
I'm also continuing with my brake upgrade.
Are you refering to the AC line out of the firewall that attaches to the condenser?
Yes, I think so, but will need to double check that tonight. It runs along the passenger side of the engine bay, has a black braided hose for part of the run, and then turns to solid metal line before connecting at the firewall. It runs underneath the line for the smog pump.
I'll get a pic of it tonight.
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