That guy was doing that with no oil in the lifters. That's the key to his method. I think he mentions that in the video.
That guy was doing that with no oil in the lifters. That's the key to his method. I think he mentions that in the video.They were def too tight, I already started resetting them yesterday. I ran out of time to get the job finished, but I can tell you what this noob did wrong.
I watched an internet vid of a guy who swore about his process he has used for 30 years, blah blah. I found zero lash, then tightened the nut. When you do it right, you can still barely spin the pushrods when the valve is closed. He had me cranking the engine around multiple times and retightening any that could still move. Basically I took him too literally, and made them too tight.
I will say this, my comp rockers have a lot of side to side play when they arent under load. I think I had them torqued correctly the first time, and the chatter I was hearing is just how they are. When they go under load as I rotate the engine around, they get tight and stay straight. When they are not under load, the pushrod is still snug, they can just slide back and forth side to side a bit on the fulcrum.
Get well soon man! Sounds like it didn’t get you too bad!Well hello ladies and gents. Don’t get too excited, I don’t have any pictures. What I do have is a positive case of our favorite virus. I’m on day 7, and so far the body aches and congestion have only slightly improved. I’ve been isolated in one bedroom of our house, with my wife and son setting meals outside the door. I got so sick of being in one room day in and day out, that I broke out the Mustang for a short cruise. No stopping anywhere, just me and the road. After about 15 minutes, I couldn’t stand it anymore and went back home. This is really where things begin for me today.
My car has never had great drivability with the 347. The cam is aggressive, and was ground for a carb set up originally. I need a cam swap. With that being said, I will be upgrading my heads when I do this, as the current TFS 170s are small for my engine, and the cam needs to match what I choose. So then, while having this done, is there a solid argument to shell out for an aftermarket block? It will be staying N/A, but I would like it to be able to rev to 6,200-6,500.
I want to do this right the first time, and be done, but not waste money. I am hoping with the correct cam, heads, and my Systemax II intake that I will make 375-400 hp at the tire and similar torque. At this power level, in N/A form, do I need an aftermarket block to safely spin 6,200-6,500 RPM, or will a girdle and whatever other support be sufficient on my stock block?
Damn. Hope you feel better soon.
Can’t comment on the engine block myself as I’m still running the stock block myself. I guess I’ll just say that if this is your “final” combo, might make sense to invest the funds and build it on top of a good foundation?
My heads are holding the engine back. So my thought is to have a custom cam ground for a set of better heads. Then it’s matched, maximized, and done.If you aren’t planning on racing, why not just spec out a custom grind cam (or find a good aftermarket cam) swap it and get the driveability back? Do you want more power? (Stupid question)
Stick with the stock block, don't need no stink'n girdle for 6-6500 rpms, 400 hp.
JMO
High rpm and 500+ hp crack some stock blocks. There are people that have raced the stock blocks for years with more power and higher revving.
As long as you don't rattle the engine showing off what's there to worry about?
Again what do I know.
Was that a dig?I haven’t yet figured out what you know...
Oh yeah, dump truck stuff.
Hmmm. I know mine is externally balanced. I was feeling pretty good until you said that part! I wish I wasn’t right in the block splitting level. With as little as I drive the car, I feel like I’d be fine with a good tune. However, that’s why I asked for the opinions of everyone. I guess I don’t dont have much to lose if I freshen up the stock block combo and it fails down the road. Swap it over now or wait and swap it when I’m forced to.We routinely run mid 5s on a 331 in the 1\8th.. car makes well over "block splitting" power...
Its all in the tuneup, don't rattle the engine and don't allow harmonics to damage the block.
We run IB rotating assembly only, lowers the stress on the block considerably.
Lots of guys making big power. The killer is a bad tuneup.Hmmm. I know mine is externally balanced. I was feeling pretty good until you said that part! I wish I wasn’t right in the block splitting level. With as little as I drive the car, I feel like I’d be fine with a good tune. However, that’s why I asked for the opinions of everyone. I guess I don’t dont have much to lose if I freshen up the stock block combo and it fails down the road. Swap it over now or wait and swap it when I’m forced to.
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