Nick's "lvndpst" Restoration (and Slight Modification) Thread
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A local engine builder said being a stock block, it may have been overbored from a past issue and "Micky moused" together with an overbore bearing. No idea, and won't know until it's in a shop. The engine was built by Fordstrokers, and I have all the paperwork proving it, so I doubt that's the case.
At any rate, after stewing on this tonight, I have eliminated the Coyote swap. Just as Mike mentioned, it's more down time and figuring out than I care to deal with, and changes to other parts of the car I've already completed (brakes, exhaust, computer, wiring, tuning pieces)... Blah, I need a dart block 11R headed 363 to fall in my lap.
At any rate, after stewing on this tonight, I have eliminated the Coyote swap. Just as Mike mentioned, it's more down time and figuring out than I care to deal with, and changes to other parts of the car I've already completed (brakes, exhaust, computer, wiring, tuning pieces)... Blah, I need a dart block 11R headed 363 to fall in my lap.
Those cam bearings are heinous. Something definitely isnt right. Coyote swaps are still difficult and expensive having watched a few friends do it, one of which is still in pieces. Unless you collected ALL of the parts and had them ready to swap in over a month or so, Id shy away from it. Pull the shortblock and have it fixed, shouldnt cost that much.
Both of my reputable builders in town have guessed the block has a stress fracture that allowed the bearing to spin. So, my plan is to list the heads and matching unused cam for sale, and get a new block to transfer the stroker kit over to with more suitable heads and cam. Gotta throw my quad up for sale to help ease the pain, but when it's done I shouldn't have to worry going forward.
I'd say stick with the pushrod... but it's good that you found that before big damage was done.
Yeah, the Coyote was a pipe dream for a minute. It'll just end up being a dart block 347 for ease of finishing, or so the plan is at the moment.
Ha, there's an idea!
The way I see it, why shell out for an aftermarket block, and keep heads that hold the combo back? If Im spending money, may as well just get on with it and make the best use of the rotating assembly I own. The current trickflow heads and cam will serve someone well on a 302/306.
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Pretty similar to my plans at the moment. Unless I get some stupid bonus in the next 6-9 months (extremely unlikely given the economy) I plan to sell off my 302 with TFS 170's and TFS Stage 1 cam and replace with a 363 Dart with 205 11R heads and custom cam... If I happen to have the money I'll go Gen 3 Coyote and put a blower on it later, but even without the blower it'd be another 10-15k more for the coyote than just the long block swap.
It's fun for sure. I love the old two strokes. It's getting fresh brakes and a bleed as we speak. I'll grab you a pic when I get it back in the next day or two. I put all new plastics/graphics on it, wheels/tires, exhaust, engine rebuilt with ported and polished head, 38 mm carb, etc, etc. Speedo app on my phone said 73 mph on the blacktop in front of my house with a 36 mm carb. Haven't tried it again since jumping up to the 38 mm.
Back on the engine subject, I talked to Ed Curtis this morning about the cam he had made me for the old combo. He said it will still be a good cam for the new combo, which is nice. So really all I need is a block, the 11r 205s, and possibly new pushrods. Now that it seems so simple, I'm excited to get the ball rolling with my local engine builder.
Small update, but still no pictures. I have a Dart block on hand, thanks to a helpful forum member. Ed at FTI is grinding a custom cam to match up with some AFR 205 Renegade heads. I want to keep with shorty headers, and the 225's will not accept the 1 3/4 primary shorties I have on hand, so that is my reason for 205's. I have a Super Victor EFI Intake, with a carb style throttle body on top. My tuner tells me they give much snappier throttle response than a big 90mm single blade throttle body. I have 47 lb injectors, Edelbrock fuel rails, Jomar RR girdles, etc, etc.
Here is where I am left pondering. I have a freshly rebuilt stock distributor, and Motorcraft replacement coil. I only plan to spin the engine to 6500 or so. I've heard the stock ignition is pretty good for N/A set ups. Am I off to think it will be able to handle the 500 or so hp to 6500 rpm without an MSD ignition box or other pieces?
Lastly, I went ahead and bought a Tremec TKX with all the needed pieces to make it fit.
Engine builder has me slated in for February. That gives me 4-5 months to finish my honey do list, so I can work mostly freely come Spring.
Here is where I am left pondering. I have a freshly rebuilt stock distributor, and Motorcraft replacement coil. I only plan to spin the engine to 6500 or so. I've heard the stock ignition is pretty good for N/A set ups. Am I off to think it will be able to handle the 500 or so hp to 6500 rpm without an MSD ignition box or other pieces?
Lastly, I went ahead and bought a Tremec TKX with all the needed pieces to make it fit.
Engine builder has me slated in for February. That gives me 4-5 months to finish my honey do list, so I can work mostly freely come Spring.
That MSD will likely only give you a multi-spark below 3000 rpm and won't help in the least. You already have a hot/fat spark. Just make sure your coil stays saturated. I accomplish this with a Boost-a-Spark. Other manufacturers make similar devices.
Stock works fine if it’s good . I’ve been pretty quick with a stock dist
Thanks guys. I'm trying to be prepared and have everything on hand. I will give the stock ignition a chance.
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