Nitrous question

i have the chance to possibly pick up an nx wet kit for cheap, and had a couple questions. i know its been asked a million times and you get many answers, but will it be ok to SAFELY run on a stock engine (100,xxx miles, the engine runs perfect), if i use all the safety stuff; or is there a pretty good chance i will break something? also what size shot should i run?

thanks,
matt
 
When you say wet kit, do you mean the type that sprays between the upper and lower intake? If its not stay the hell away from it. If it sprays before the TB and that nitrous/air/fuel mixture puddles in your intake... bye-bye intake. here's a little video of what I'm talking about. I know I'll never run it on my car. I do NOT know what type of kit the car had in the video, but I can almost guarantee that what you see here is due to fuel puddling in the intake and BOOM! These guys are lucky no one was injured... you'll see what I mean. I do feel bad for the stang's owner, this was a pricey lesson to learn.

:owned:
RIGHT CLICK HERE, SELECT "SAVE TARGET AS"
 
Killercanary said:
When you say wet kit, do you mean the type that sprays between the upper and lower intake? If its not stay the hell away from it. If it sprays before the TB and that nitrous/air/fuel mixture puddles in your intake... bye-bye intake. here's a little video of what I'm talking about. I know I'll never run it on my car. I do NOT know what type of kit the car had in the video, but I can almost guarantee that what you see here is due to fuel puddling in the intake and BOOM! These guys are lucky no one was injured... you'll see what I mean. I do feel bad for the stang's owner, this was a pricey lesson to learn.

:owned:
RIGHT CLICK HERE, SELECT "SAVE TARGET AS"

It's the kind that sprays before the TB, and thats they only thing that worries me because i have seen a few videos like this one. But it also seems like many people are running their set ups like that with no problems, so i'm still undecided.
 
ive gotten the nitrous backfire before but it was just the popping not the explosion so i was lucky. but this is only from spaying at too low in the rpm range. to combat this, get an msd window switch so it only sprays during certain rpm intstead of wot. ill be getiin one soon. you could also run a tad smaller fuel jet. wet is fine as long as its done right.
 
The kit I ran was an 5115 from NOS and I used no safety features at all except for the FP switch. I sprayed after 3k and let off when I shifted on the WOT switch. I sprayed ONLY over 3K and never had a single problem with my 100 shot. Oh wait ...I did have a problem: I went from 14.02 @ 98mph to 12.78 @ 109 mph. It made my Vert illegal on the track for no cage! :mad:

YOU WILL BE FINE just upgrade your fuel pumpand fpr. I ran on stock 19lb injectors.
 
get the original instructions for the kit. do what they say, you'll be fine. when you start venturing away from the intended purpose, you'll start having problems. I used a 75 NOS kit for a few years, never a problem. Sure you can swap the jets for a bigger shot, you "just" have to compensate with additional fuel. supplying said fuel is often overlooked which=problems. i upped mine to 125 a few times, but kept it at 75 for "daily use". go for it man, good luck
 
yea that can happen but i mean the thinkg about a plate system between the upper and lower intake there only rated at 150-300 and if he just wants to spray about a 100 go dry its easier to hook up and great for beginers
 
The basics of nitrous are follow the manufacturers guidelines. Nitrous kits are developed to a specific year/motor with it in stock condition. Headers and exhaust will not effect their guidelines.

RULES FOR NITROUS:
For every 50 horse of nitrous your timing should be retarded 2.5 degrees on cool days and 2 on warm HUMID days from STOCK settings.

A 2 step colder plug should be used for the purpose of accidental meltdown.

Never rely on a stock fuel pump. Also on the fuel subject I personally wouldn't spray with anything less than 24lb injectors and without a HOBBS switch.

Always spray at WOT.

Buy a purge kit. Not only to release moisture but to clear the lines after a healthy spray and when your not spraying keep the bottle off. The solenoids are rated at around 3000 psi and granted the average pressure nitrous is realesed at is between 900 and 1050 but if one of the solenoids happened to leak at part throttle well then those little specs of aluminum you'll be seeing on your plugs are pieces of your pistons.

The MOST important... read your plugs. Not just one of them but all of them. The ground strap should have a slight bluish tint to it. The porcelain should be a little bronzed but just a LITTLE. It does not hurt to take a magnifying glass and check the porcelain either. If it's speckled then most likely it aluminum pieces.

Idealy you'll want to start small just because the kit can give you a 150 shot doesn't mean you can spray it. Go 75 then 100 and then 125 and if your forged go 150. The whole time monitoring your plugs with a consistant pressure of 900-1050 (why a bottle heater is so important as well), for constant accuracy. The budget minded kit or not-so budget minded is a NX kit with the GEN X upgrade, an SCT flip or Diablo, with a custom dyno tune, (by a reputable shop) a healthy ignition system, and an inline or at least 190lph in-tank pump and use a mid 90 octane or higher if you have the compression. Trust me it will help detering detonation. If you follow these guidelines you will never have a problem.
 
everybody here has made valid points. safety is key. instructions are written for a reason.. if your racing the car, buy racing parts.. if your workin the fuelsystem over, your livin on borrowed time..

i loved my nitrous.. even a 100 shot was an extra 70 horses..but i was runnin a used wet set up w/ all the amenities: purge, rpm window, bottle warmer..never had a problem w/ it..save for one leaky fuel solenoid..(used parts will do that i guess..:D