Nitrous questions

[FoxTail]

Reinstalling an NX 100 shot wet system. Couple of questions as I have no dealing with Nitrous. Was in car but never used so I wanna make sure its right before i try her.

Should my injection line be put into the intake before or after the mass air flow sensor? Im pretty sure its after but never hurts to ask.

With a 100 shot, do I need a purge? I have been reading that it is really of no use unless larger than a 100.

This is just to hear your opinions, any disadvantages to a WOT switch?

My biggest question, I know my timing is going to need to be adjusted to run the nitrous. Is it adjusted significantly enough that I am going to notice a difference in power when not using the nitrous? How much hp will be effected? Also, if i can get a general consensus of what degree to set it to on here, is it safe to do myself or does it need to be so specific that I should take it to a performance shop to have specifically tuned. Its my playtoy and the perfect setting to get 5 extra horses isnt worth a three hundred dollar tune bill to me. It is worth it if its gonna ruin something though.

Any tips on timing degree setting and spark plug use would be appreciated. The engine is a 5.0 with all your common bolt ons, edelbrock performer heads, cobra intake, e303. Crane cams Fireball HI-6 ignition. I know the cam sucks, gimme some time, i just donated my sons college fund to maximum motorsports and Late model resto today. Maybe he will have a sweeet ride when he is old enough haha. This car is a weekend cruiser only and may see a track three times a year. Thanks again guys. No offense, I really mean it, but please only respond if you are knowledgable in nitrous, i have seen fast and furious as well, that doesn't mean I have an N20 degree, thats why i am asking for help.

 

[capri debris]

I have a ZEX wet kit 100 shot.
It comes with a control module so it doesn't need a wot switch, but you will need one and if it's set right, there is no downside to it... actually many prefer it over the way ZEX does it.

The nozzle should be after the air meter and as close to the throttle body as possible.

Purge is always optional, but if you want to make sure the line is clear and full of n2o just before launch, put one in.

There are three dangers in running n2o: Don't float the valves, don't allow detonation and don't run lean.

To keep from floating the valves I depend on the rev limiter chip in my MSD ignition. It cuts spark at the set rpm... this is good because the stock rev limiter cuts fuel flow. If you depend on the stock rev limiter and it cuts fuel while spraying, you go lean and BOOM. The MSD is safe because when the spark cuts out, it won't go lean if spraying.

I also installed a window switch wired in line with the n2o solenoid. It's a module that allows me to set the rpm I want the n2o to come on and shut off. I have it set to come on at 3500 rpm and shut off just before the MSD shuts off spark at redline. (in my case 6200 rpm)

Timing is very important, so a tune is highly recommended. I have yet to get my car to the dyno for the tune, but when I have it done, I'm going to have a dual tune programmed. It will have two settings... one for when I'm spraying and one for when I'm not. They will be two seperate tunes with different fuel and timing curves, controlled by a switch in my glovebox. This will protect me from detonation and/or running lean. However, I will also be installing a wide band o2 sensor just for peace of mind so I can keep an eye on the a/f ratio for myself during real life driving.

Hope some of this helped you out... and good luck.

 

[FoxTail]

Thanks for all the information, never thought about what it would do when hitting the rev limiter. Thanks for the warning.

 

[2000xp8]

I used a 100 dry shot as opposed to wet, the nozzle was drilled into the throttle body.
While i don't know the actual installation of a wet system, no way in hell do i see it getting sprayed before the mass air meter.

As far as a tune, most low level systems are designed to be used with the car as is. Tuning for it shouldn't be necessary.

Purge isn't a necessity.

I sold mine long ago, my buddies car with the kit i lent him on it, made a 70rwhp improvement.

IMO, sell the kit, and upgrade some of your top end pieces with the money.
$50 a fill adds up quick, and the nitrous wasnt much fun for a street car.
I'll take an extra 30hp all the time over 70hp once in a while any day.
To me the nitrous in the end all mod, when there is nothing esle to upgrade.

 

[ExTrooper]

All of your questions and concerns are valid. Maybe consider selling your kit and getting a dry one (Zex, NOS). Research dry vs. wet nitrous kits. Dry kits are safer, and the only disadvantages can be easily remedied. Plus, if you're new to nitrous, the dry kits are a good way to get into it.

I had a NOS 5115 kit on my LX Coupe when it had the stock motor and minor bolt-ons/gears. With only the 75HP jets, it hit HARD and would regularly outrun H/C/I Mustangs, LS1 Camaros, C5 Vettes, you name it. That particular kit will go up to 150HP, which it doesn't sound like you want to exceed anytime soon.

The primary advantage is that it eliminates one very serious and potentially dangerous variable, the fuel line/jet. Dry kits only boost your current pump and injectors for the N20. You will never have to worry about fuel passing through your intake or the dreaded nitrous backfire. The good dry kits are inexpensive and have many safety components that will shut the nitrous flow off or adjust it if the fuel is not there (ZEX has the most innovative one because it actually boosts fuel in accordance with the nitrous pressure/flow) i.e. there is always the optimum mixture going into the combustion chamber.

I'm new here and this is obviously my first post, but just consider it.

 

[ExTrooper]

P.S.
Some dry kits spray before the MAF so that it reads the N20 and boosts your fuel pressure and holds injectors open longer. IMO the best ones mount the jet right at the TB and use solenoids or some kind of control module and also connect to your fuel system so the electronics know exactly how much extra fuel your engine is getting. Dry kits are also very easy to hide if you're interested in the stealth thing.