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No Hook at Launch. Need advice on Suspension Upgrades Please...

  • Thread starter Thread starter Manewaymja2
  • Start date Start date Jan 1, 2010
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Manewaymja2

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Feb 11, 2009
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#1
  • Jan 1, 2010
  • #1
Heres the run Down.
My Car 1989 Mustang 306, SCT Tunned, 456HP, Procharger 8PSI, 8.8 Rear End with 3:73's, Running 26 * 10 1/2 MT Slicks, Upgraded Lower controll Arms, Stock Shocks, Subframe Connecters, 5 Lug Conversion, 8 Point Roll Cage.

Made a Pass the other day and couldnt hook up the way i think i should have. Fixed the Differential thinking that was the problem. Hit the rev Limiter the whole way down the track on another pass again like the first. Launched at 3000 RPMs. If i Launch at Lower RPM it seems to hook up better, but i think 3000 is allready a bit low for Launching.

What Upgrades would gain me the Hook and Bite i need to Launch at Higher RPMs??????????

Some of my freinds say, Adjustable Shocks to make the rear squat better at Launch, some have also mentioned to me about Traction Bars. Not sure what to do. Monney isnt the issue here but keep in mind the car isnt a Outlaw, So pumping $3000 into a Backhalf isnt the way i want to go. Just want to Launch Harder and faster. Are there any Systems for the Stock Mustang that can Bolt in or Weld in to improve this. That is ones that have been used and proven.

Thanks Matt
 

Tanus

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#2
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whats your front suspension set-up?
 

Manewaymja2

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#3
  • Jan 1, 2010
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Front Stock Suspension....... No Sway Bar. Stock Shock aqnd Struts
 

2000xp8

SN Certified Technician
Aug 8, 2003
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#4
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what are your 60ft times?
 

Manewaymja2

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Jan 1, 2010
#5
  • Jan 1, 2010
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Didnt bother to get them trust me it was so bad i didnt even get my slip. You know when you can feel like its taking 4ever to even move off the line and hiting the Rev limiter the entire way down the track tells me i definately need some Rear and front suspnsion upgrades just need to know which way to go.
 

2000xp8

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#6
  • Jan 2, 2010
  • #6
Drag springs, and adjustable shocks should make alot of difference. Since you have no sway bar i'm guessing handling doesn't mean much to you, so the eibach drag launch kit or moroso trick springs will work well.
For shocks, qa1, strange are probably the best.

I know nobody likes bad news, but the slip helps determine alot.
60ft and trap speed can say alot about the car, plus it's a bench mark for improvement.
 

Tanus

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Manewaymja2 said:
Front Stock Suspension....... No Sway Bar. Stock Shock aqnd Struts
Click to expand...
well there you go, front set-up makes alot bigger dif. than the rear.

70/30s and moroso springs dropped me from inconsitant 1.8s to consistant 1.6s
 

88blowngt

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Jan 2, 2010
#8
  • Jan 2, 2010
  • #8
Anyone run steeda superlite drag springs?
 

Manewaymja2

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Jan 2, 2010
#9
  • Jan 2, 2010
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What was the Spring Rate of the Moroso Springs - 175 / 200 / 250 ????

How about the 90/10's up front with the Moroso Springs, and say 50/50's out back with my Springs Now (Not Sure what they are, but i have noticed that they have an air bag in them) that i didnt know untill a bit of research to find that they are to stiffin the spring, should i have a stiff or softer spring out back?

Was also looking at the Torque arm set up by Global West Suspension. Would that realy help in hard high RPM Launches? Also was thinking to maybe install some adjustable upper controll arms from Steeda????????????

Please Whats the best options out there for traction? Want to spend the money in the right direction not just guess???????

Was thinking also that my tire pressure may be a bit high. I have them at 12psi now and they dont seem to have one bit of side wall rinkle. They are 26*10-1/2 M/T Slicks. Whats the best starting point in PSI for them??????/
 

2000xp8

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Jan 3, 2010
#10
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I don't know the rate on the moroso trick springs, but i know they work, because i tried them out.
They really threw the front end upwards and the set i had were cut.
Now i believe they are linear so they are one of the sets of springs that if you cut them all you change is the height, not the spring rate.

I believe the air bag is used for the drivers side rear because the car has a tendency to torque the whole chassis in that direction. Something that adjustable shocks help also because you can stiffen one side more than the other.

I really don't think you need an expensive torque arm setup.
Guys run 9's and quicker with stock 4 link style suspensions.
Get the shocks and springs and give it another go. You may be shocked (no pun intended) at how the car reacts with a proper drag setup, you sure as hell can scare the crap out of unsuspecting passengers.

With that said, i took the drag suspension out of my car, took too much fun out of street driving for my taste.
 
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xtreme02stang

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#11
  • Jan 3, 2010
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I ran 90/10's up front with moroso trick springs at all 4 corners with stock shocks in the rear with southside lowers and pulled consistant 1.50 60ft times. upgrade your front struts and springs and youll notice a huge difference.
 

2000xp8

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#12
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xtreme02stang said:
with southside lowers
Click to expand...

Don't get any ideas about running these.
First they are out of business, second they will destroy your car.
I know first hand.

They work, in fact they work awesome.
But they have bearings instead of bushings, so when one side of the rear is up and they other is down like in a turn or a bump there is zero give. All that flex that was supposed to go on the bushings has to go somewhere, and that place is the torque boxes.
Tore mine right off the car, cost me over a grand at the chassis shop to have fixed.
Oh yeah, and they also tore my rear open at the axle tubes.

I think metco makes a similar style set, with bushings instead of bearings, but i don't have any experience with the.
 
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xtreme02stang

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#13
  • Jan 3, 2010
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I had a similar issue on mine with them tearing out. I sold the car so didnt bother with it. Is there another brand that works just as well without tearing your car up?
 

2000xp8

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#14
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xtreme02stang said:
I had a similar issue on mine with them tearing out. I sold the car so didnt bother with it. Is there another brand that works just as well without tearing your car up?
Click to expand...

These might, but i'm not sure.
Ford Mustang Traction Bars - Lakewood 21900

I looked for the metco ones, but the metco website is either gone or down.
 
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njoliver

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Nov 25, 2009
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Columbus OH
Jan 3, 2010
#15
  • Jan 3, 2010
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prolink suspension makes a really affordable fully adj. 4 link set-up that doesnt require any farication just bolt it on and adjust will make a huge difference
 

Tanus

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xtreme02stang said:
I ran 90/10's up front with moroso trick springs at all 4 corners with stock shocks in the rear with southside lowers and pulled consistant 1.50 60ft times. upgrade your front struts and springs and youll notice a huge difference.
Click to expand...
some here but with 70/30s, got consistant 1.6s

2000xp8 said:
Don't get any ideas about running these.
First they are out of business, second they will destroy your car.
I know first hand.

They work, in fact they work awesome.
But they have bearings instead of bushings, so when one side of the rear is up and they other is down like in a turn or a bump there is zero give. All that flex that was supposed to go on the bushings has to go somewhere, and that place is the torque boxes.
Tore mine right off the car, cost me over a grand at the chassis shop to have fixed.
Click to expand...
my SSM work awesome, but like you said, ***ed up the torque boxs, but had them fixed up super super strong so its all good now. didnt relize til now that the SSM's were the culprit.
 

2000xp8

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  • Jan 3, 2010
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Tanus said:
some here but with 70/30s, got consistant 1.6s

my SSM work awesome, but like you said, ***ed up the torque boxs, but had them fixed up super super strong so its all good now. didnt relize til now that the SSM's were the culprit.
Click to expand...

If you drive on the street, SSM bars will never be good.
Each time you fix something the stress goes elsewhere, the suspension has to articulate, and because the SS's use bearings that only go straight up or down, something is always binding if the car is not sitting level on the rear.

Next up you lose the lose the rear, twisted mine right open.

If you drive a street car, i suggest you lose them.
Oh, almost forgot, when i say tore open the axle tubes, i don't mean only where they connect to the center section, i also mean tore the control arm mounts off the axle tube.
 

Tanus

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#18
  • Jan 4, 2010
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thanks for the tip
 

Manewaymja2

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Jan 4, 2010
#19
  • Jan 4, 2010
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Ok after some more research and what you guys have told me i am looking at this set up.

Up Front, Springs that i have Now (Asuming Stock) with 90/10 Struts.

Out Back, Springs that i have with the Air Bags in them (going to Soften them up a bit Driver side more that Passenger) with 50/50 Shocks.

Then Im thinking the Lakewood Traction Bar set up to replace the Lower controll Arms out back

And Finally the Steeda adjustable upper controll Arms out Back.

Do you guys think that set up would allow me to Launch a bit Harder at Higher RPMS????????

Remeber the Car is Producing about 400 RWHP and Torque.

Thanks
 

tmoss

Gettin Wired
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#20
  • Jan 4, 2010
  • #20
I've not used the Lakewwods, but they look like they lower the axel mount lower which gives the car an instant center that it did not have from Ford. The only hesitation I would have is that then the Instant Center is high and may be above the center of gravity. It would be much better to lower the upper link's body mount by about 1.5" to create an IC that is below the CG imho.
 
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