No Hook at Launch. Need advice on Suspension Upgrades Please...

Tanus · Jan 4, 2010

Manewaymja2 said:
Ok after some more research and what you guys have told me i am looking at this set up.

Up Front, Springs that i have Now (Asuming Stock) with 90/10 Struts.

Out Back, Springs that i have with the Air Bags in them (going to Soften them up a bit Driver side more that Passenger) with 50/50 Shocks.

Then Im thinking the Lakewood Traction Bar set up to replace the Lower controll Arms out back

And Finally the Steeda adjustable upper controll Arms out Back.

Do you guys think that set up would allow me to Launch a bit Harder at Higher RPMS????????

Remeber the Car is Producing about 400 RWHP and Torque.

Thanks

front drags springs, by far, make the single best improvement in traction. (of any suspension component)

EMW150 · Jan 5, 2010

Does this car see alot of street time? If not, consider an anti-roll bar for the rear. Like this one: 1979-2004 Ford Mustang Pro Series Chrome Moly Anti Roll Bar Kit - UPR Products Makes a huge difference when the car is planting the tires evenly. I never had much luck with the air bag setups. Also check out this website, lots of good info here: http://www.baselinesuspensions.com/info/Launching_A_Drag_Car.htm . I use his upper control arms on my setup. Really helped the car. My last trip to the track with my car, I had a 1.450 60' time. (never got to finish the pass though)

Maryland Stang · Jan 5, 2010

Instead of guessing and trying this and that, go read these pages for suspension wisdom. Even if you don't buy any of his parts you will know what to buy and why you're installing it.

http://www.baselinesuspensions.com/

Tanus · Jan 5, 2010

EMW150 said:
BaselineSuspensions.com.........Launching A Drag Car . I use his upper control arms on my setup. Really helped the car. My last trip to the track with my car, I had a 1.450 60' time. (never got to finish the pass though)

the stang on that site running 1.4 60s with BFG radials is crazy.

the set-up your talking about must work good, most time, a fox pulling the wheels on the launch will be all twisted (1 tire way higher than the other), but in your avy its perfectly straight.nice

tmoss · Jan 5, 2010

Tanus said:
... in your avy its perfectly straight.

that's the way you can tell it's all done right. Wheels up or not, the lift is even across the car and the chassis loads and unloads optimally.

EMW150 · Jan 5, 2010

Tanus said:
the stang on that site running 1.4 60s with BFG radials is crazy.

the set-up your talking about must work good, most time, a fox pulling the wheels on the launch will be all twisted (1 tire way higher than the other), but in your avy its perfectly straight.nice

The baseline uppers really did make a big difference in the traction department. As far as launching straight though and high speed stability, the anti-roll bar really helped the most in that department. Big difference compared to the old Eibach drag springs with airbag.

strtrcr50 · Jan 5, 2010

Since the OP didn't mention, are you looking to hook on the street or the track? If it's the street, as mentioned, drag shocks and springs. Also, hp megabite jr's lower control arms and fms uppers, and a set of ET Streets should make you happy. Track, I'd assume the same combo works.

Manewaymja2 · Jan 6, 2010

From What Im hearing, I would say either:

1-The Shocks Lakewood 90/10-50/50 , the springs Drag Race Springs, the upper adjustable control arms and maybe a Torque arm would be the way to go. I already have Steeda Lower control arms.

2-Or Maybe the baseline uppers with the anti-roll bar and the Lakewood Shocks 90/10 up front and 50/50 out back.

SWhicj combo would be best?

Do you guys think sheel hook up then with Higher RPM Launches? Its for Track Use.

tmoss · Jan 6, 2010

option 2

Maryland Stang · Jan 7, 2010

Manewaymja2 said:
2-Or Maybe the baseline uppers with the anti-roll bar and the Lakewood Shocks 90/10 up front and 50/50 out back.

SWhicj combo would be best?

Kind of #2 but with adjustable shocks front and rear. Track conditions are not static. They can change from hour to hour even at the same track.

What springs are you using or have you even given that any thought?

As much time as a lot of people spend on tuning engines they should spend even more time on tuning the suspension. A suspension isn't a set it and forget it affair. It's how races are won.

Ed Curtis once asked how you are supposed to beat the guy next to you if you have the same parts?

The answer is attention to details!

EMW150 · Jan 7, 2010

Definately #2 with adjustable shocks would be the best.

teamcrossbreed · Jan 7, 2010

Ok here is our set up and we have a 1.34 60' on our street car that is daily driven. morso drag springs no need for an air bag with these. 90/10 in front and 10 way adj strange in the back go to adj solid uppers and solid lowers set your pinon at 1* and if you have the money get a upr k-member and a arms. also if you have not done it yet weld up your battle boxes or you will rip them out also frame conn. also take the front bumper out then put your nose back on that takes off like 45 lb off the nose. if you drive it on the street go get a pice of chrome molly and put it in its place have it bent in the shape of a big U and weld it in place!

hope this helps!

srtthis · Jan 7, 2010

and get VIDEO... it helps alot!!! i prefer from the driver rear of the car...

Manewaymja2 · Jan 10, 2010

Guys Ive decided to go with some 90/10 Lakewood shocks up front and QA1 Adjustables out back for Now with the Springs that i have Now and the adjustable upper control arms. A freind of mine told me the other day that i may be Launching abit to fast off the clutch. I Have noticed that all i do is rev - then pop the clutch. So not much of a slip clutch process. I think that causes a bit of the burn out leave that happens for me. Also im going to try a little less tire pressure ( Currently 10-12 PSI no wrinkle) Im gonna go untell i see a tire wrinkle. Will that help any??????????????

Tanus · Jan 11, 2010

you got the slick screwed to the rim right? Ive gone as low as 8 psi, but it gets hairy on the top end.

Manewaymja2 · Jan 11, 2010

No im not using Rim Screws. Didnt think that i would need the making only 400 RWHP/Torque. Can you shed some more light on this for me.

Ill try the lower PSI until i see a wrinkle. Might Help.

Thanks Matt

Tanus · Jan 12, 2010

without rim screws I wouldnt go any lower than 15lbs.

EMW150 · Jan 12, 2010

I've never used rim screws although I probably should though like Tanus is saying. The tires will spin on the rim. I've marked mine before to check and they do turn on the rims. Not alot but an inch or two in a weekend which will throw them out of balance. I run mine at 10 psi hot.

Tanus · Jan 12, 2010

I like your launch vid, that was a 1.57 60ft? my car will low 1.6s but never pulled the wheels like that. got some serious mods planned so hopefully I can get a nice wheelie like that.

EMW150 · Jan 12, 2010

Tanus said:
I like your launch vid, that was a 1.57 60ft? my car will low 1.6s but never pulled the wheels like that. got some serious mods planned so hopefully I can get a nice wheelie like that.

That was actually a 1.450 in the launch vid. I never got to finish the pass though so I never put it in my sig. Trans locked in 2nd gear. Haven't made it back to the track since.

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