no start post #5934233

[reject5.0]

Yeah, I know there are a lot of these...but I need help lol.

Ok, I drove my car to work, drove fine all the way. Then after work, I went to start it and it wouldn't start. The fuel pump turned on and it cranked like normal, but it wouldn't fire.

Heres what I know/did:

I checked for fuel, and its got fuel. I checked for spark at the coil and at plug #1 and nothing. So I went to the distributer and the cap and rotor were both trash...the cap was just old and the rotor was black. So I bought a brand new cap, rotor, and coil and installed em. I went to start it and still it wouldnt fire. I checked for spark again at the coil and at the plug and still NOTHING. Not even a hint of spark. I also checked the fuses under the dash and under the hood and they all look fine.

Where do I go from here?

 

[Cobra4075]

The other parts that could fail to give you those results are the module or the pick-up. The module on 94-95 is on the strut tower behind the mass air meter. And the pick-up is in the distributor.

 

[reject5.0]

What are they exactly...and how do I test em?

 

[HISSIN50]

If you have injector pulsing, you have a PIP. If you only have no spark, likely choices are the aforementioned TFI or coil.

Good luck.

 

[reject5.0]

EDIT #2 Found some more answers.

But still...how can I tell if my injectors are pulsing?

 

[reject5.0]

And Hissin.....are you saying if I don't have injector pulsing, it could be my PIP?

 

[reject5.0]

Some valuable information I left out.....

My car also has an aftermarket alarm, but I don't have a clue what kind. Is it possible that there is a feature that kills spark? There is a button under the dash by the fuses...don't have a clue what it is... Ive pressed it and tried to restart it, but nothing.

Its a long shot, but just thought id ask.

 

[ROLLIN5.0]

Every alarm that I have seen that has a disable circuit will actually disable the starter.
Brandon

 

[CManT1914]

You said you just replaced the coil, cap and rotor. So you can probably rule those out.

The PIP like HISSIN mentioned controls base spark and injector timing. So if your injectors are firing, then your PIP is probably good. The PIP sends the signal to the TFI.

The TFI then sends that signal to the PCM, which determines spark advance according to load, rpm etc. It then sends the signal back to the TFI, which then sends it to the coil. You said you had spark at the coil and wires, so your TFI is probably good. Besides, they usually only go bad when they overheat.

I don't know anything about alarms, but if you know who installed it, then you could ask them if it has a starter kill relay or something that would prevent the car from starting.

 

[reject5.0]

You said you had spark at the coil and wires

No, I don't have a hint of spark at all. Not even a weak spark.

Thanks for the tech. info though. The car isn't at my place...its in a parking lot a few miles away lol. I have to wait for a few hours before I can get a ride down there and start takin stuff apart.

Ill let you know what I find.

 

[CManT1914]

You said you had spark at the coil and wires

No, I don't have a hint of spark at all. Not even a weak spark.

Thanks for the tech. info though. The car isn't at my place...its in a parking lot a few miles away lol. I have to wait for a few hours before I can get a ride down there and start takin stuff apart.

Ill let you know what I find.

OH! I misread your post. I'd check to see if your injectors are firing. Do you have a Hayne's manual? I think it tells in there how to check this, if not, I'm sure somebody on here can tell you. I've never had to do it. Anyway, if the injectors aren't getting a signal, I'd look at the PIP, if they are, then I'd look at the TFI.

 

[reject5.0]

im about to "look" for a damn torch!

Yeah I have a manual....but I left it in the car haha. oops...

 

[HISSIN50]

A noid light is used for checking injector pulsing. They are under 5 bucks at many parts stores.

Look at the ignition coil' connector to see if the wires are stock. If not (i.e. some rube added a kill switch), trace that wire or temporarily restore the wiring. Your manual will have some ok troubleshooting - you can do the tests on the ignition coil and things like that. Take a test light and DMM with you when you go.

One can use a starter kill circuit to kill whatever you want, and some people prefer to have it cut the ignition. I really doubt any of that is the case since you did not do anything different.

Good luck.

 

[reject5.0]

Ok, thanks a lot guys.

It looks like the earliest I can get to my car is tomarrow morning. Ill pick up a noid light and start testing some stuff.

Thanks again guys. I appriciate the help. I owe you all a round.

 

[reject5.0]

**UPDATE**

I got her runnin again. It was a bad coil. Autozone sold me a POS. I checked the injectors with a noid light (greatest invention ever) and they were good, and I checked the power too the coil, and it was good. So I bought a new coil and it started perfectly.

I looked closer at the autozone coil and it was broken and cracked and s#it. Ive had so many bad experiences with em....im never goin there again.

Thanks again for all your help.

 

[reject5.0]

Oh, and on the way home, I made a U turn and when i started accelerating, the car died. I put it in nuetral and pulled over. I cranked it over and it started right away.

Anybody have a clue what that was all about?