NOT GOOD!!! MY CAR RUNS AT 230 DEGREES

[88mustng]

i put a vortech in and now my car goes up to about 210 and when i really get on it it raises as high as 230.

i have stock radiator and and a 195 therm

if i get a 3 core how much do you think it will drop my temp??

im scared driving it right now

thanks

 

[willys1]

Did you just get pullies? Did you retard your timing? Do you have an inter cooler?

 

[HISSIN50]

i might try a good quality 180 stat and need more info for more. does it run hot in traffic, or just at speed? how old is the radiator? what is the fan situation? stuff like that.

good luck.

 

[Daggar]

You might also take a look inside of your radiator to see if there is a significant amount of scale buildup inside preventing good thermal transfer.

 

[Skoobie]

This would be a bad idea for winter but I would suggest running 180 therm and run 80%water/20% coolant then try some Redline water wetter. It works better with a higher water content. Should keep you down to resonable temps.

 

[HISSIN50]

This would be a bad idea for winter but I would suggest running 180 therm and run 80%water/20% coolant then try some Redline water wetter. It works better with a higher water content. Should keep you down to resonable temps.

i understand where you are coming from and what you are saying, but i would not count on a fix like this. a blower introduces some variables. if he is runnin that hot in winter, i would not try to band-aid it with a mixture change. come summer time, he will be in trouble; spirited driving in summer time could be quite bad.

it could be something as stupid as a bad rad cap not holding pressure. we just need more info.

(Skoobie, i do agree with ya and your thinking, but dont know that it is the best idea for 88Mustng given all the circumstances).

 

[Michael Yount]

It's usually the simplest solution that's the correct one. If you just installed the supercharger, and now it's overheating, then it's likely related.

Is it possible you put the thermostat in backwards - assuming you had it out? If you drained the cooling system for the install, did you burp the system to get all the air out?

If the car has the original stock radiator in it, it may be that the additional heat output caused by the boost/HP addition is simply too much for a tired old radiator as others alluded to above.

Lastly, is it possible you're running extremely lean -- that can cause a heat up, and a melt down with boost. How are you enriching the fuel mixture to go with the added air from boost?

 

[raph130]

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[willys1]

Wow!,,,I see so many different views,,I agree with M. Yount,go simple first.Also pressure check the system,,5.0's have a million little hoses for the cooling system.

 

[raph130]

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[HISSIN50]

we all know forced induction puts a strain on the engine and creates heat. a 180* thermostat is not gonna cut it. check for coolant leaks, burp the system, put in a 160* t-stat use no more than 50% antifreeze. if it was me i wouldn't even use a thermostat. the cooler the better especially with forced induction. the difference is very noticable. many guys at the track and daily driven cars with forced induction dont use thermostats or just use a 160*. its all in the driver and what you want. a hot engine or a cool powerful healthy engine. the last thing anyone wants is a hot engine ripping apart upon boost. ive built mitsubishi import turbo engines before and driven them. i know all about detonation and pinging. you dont want any of them. you risk blowing a head gasket or melting a piston.

Raph, if I read ya' right, you seem to be contradicting yourself. did you not just say that the rating of the stat does not matter? (here: http://forums.stangnet.com/showpost.php?p=4766342&postcount=36

 

[raph130]

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[Michael Yount]

Any engine only puts out more heat when it's loaded to actually generate more HP. Strapping a supercharger on doesn't make an engine put out more heat - unless you're into it hard actually asking the engine to make that extra HP. Around town, idle, part throttle, the heat output shouldn't be much different than before the supercharger was added - because driving the car easy, it's putting out the same hp it was before.

Changing a t'stat to a lower temp only changes the temperature the cooling system operates at -- IF the cooling system has enough capacity to cool the car that low. Changing to a lower temp. t'stat WILL NOT SOLVE an overheating problem. It will only delay the amount of time until the overheat occurs. Think about it - if the cooling system can't keep the car at 180F, how is it gonna keep it at 160F? If the car's overheating, changing the t'stat temp might buy you a bit of a delay, but it's eventually gonna overheat until you find the source of the problem.

The engine is putting out more heat than the cooling system can deal with; you must find out what's limiting the cooling system. Either the radiator isn't rejecting enough heat (size, old-clogged radiator, etc.) or enough air isn't moving across the radiator. All that assumes you've burped all the air out and the system is operating as intended.

 

[raph130]

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[willys1]

milliion little hoses? there are 6 rubber hoses. turbo charged cars can have as much as 15 for coolant that goes to the turbo and back to the radiator or block. also there are oil coolers in most of these cars thats even more hoses

6?? Does that include the lines going to the TB?

 

[raph130]

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[Michael Yount]

"a 180* thermostat is not gonna cut it. check for coolant leaks, burp the system, put in a 160* t-stat"

Raph - your line above from your earlier post seems to indicate that you think a 160 t'stat will help with the overheating. It won't.

 

[HISSIN50]

will you leave me alone freak?

Have we spoken before? I dont think i have addressed you prior to this - and i thought that i was tactful (re-read my quote and note that i indicated i might not be reading your responses correctly).

I've been called many many things, but freak is not one of them.

 

[dastang2]

skip the small stuff, get an aluminum radiator for 170-180 bucks from summit and put a 180 in it. i don't think a different thermo is gonna help because it goes all the way up to 230. hey don't worry though. my .060 over 302 ran at 230 all the time and no problems, not even boiling over. it has gotten to 290 when the belt came off. that is when i shut it down.

 

[HISSIN50]

i might be a bit off, but some rules of thumb: timing is backed off at 226*F. a/c is cut at 242*. so i use those as numbers of reference (i could be off by a degree or five, but it gives an idea).

do we know the condition of the stat? DaStang's thinking might be good - a new rad is always a nice idea. to compliment his thoughts, i would not omit the other (relatively very cheap) ancillary items - stat, rad cap, etc, as they are imperative in proper operation. then ensuring the fan is working as well as it can, the air dam is affixed properly, the fan shroud is sealed well to the rad, etc all add up to help. i find that little stuff adds up to 5* cooler here, 5* cooler there, and so on.

we still just dont have enough info to try to be specific.