NX plate install pics

You can use a torch to heat the bottle up. I thought they were supposed to be around 1600 PSI?

n EVER REALLY TRIED MY FRIENDS ONE OUT EAITHER CAUSE THE SAME THING WOULD HAPPEN. (damn caps lock)
At around 3000 RPM the car would just fall on its face but wouldnt die. I believe it has something to do with where the system gets its fuel from as well. I think (and could be way off) that taking it from the testing port is incorrect and that the fuel adapter is needed that goes on the pressure sensor. I think all the fuel gets dumped from the fuel rail from the nitrous system before the FPS sees it and then corrects it incorrectly. :shrug:

Hopefully one of the nitrous gurus will chime in.
 
You can use a torch to heat the bottle up. I thought they were supposed to be around 1600 PSI?

n EVER REALLY TRIED MY FRIENDS ONE OUT EAITHER CAUSE THE SAME THING WOULD HAPPEN. (damn caps lock)
At around 3000 RPM the car would just fall on its face but wouldnt die. I believe it has something to do with where the system gets its fuel from as well. I think (and could be way off) that taking it from the testing port is incorrect and that the fuel adapter is needed that goes on the pressure sensor. I think all the fuel gets dumped from the fuel rail from the nitrous system before the FPS sees it and then corrects it incorrectly. :shrug:

Hopefully one of the nitrous gurus will chime in.

The psi should be between 900 and 1000psi...NO MORE THEN 1000PSI!!!!!!!
 
The psi should be between 900 and 1000psi...NO MORE THEN 1000PSI!!!!!!!
See, good to have teh gurus. :nice:

We didnt have a gauge on his but it was over 100* outside and the bottle was in the sun so id imagine the pressure was good. :shrug:

So where do you get your fuel from? Do you have the adapter block for the FPS or just use the schrader valve?
 
See, good to have teh gurus. :nice:

We didnt have a gauge on his but it was over 100* outside and the bottle was in the sun so id imagine the pressure was good. :shrug:

So where do you get your fuel from? Do you have the adapter block for the FPS or just use the schrader valve?

My car is a late 2003 so i do not have a schrader, I have the adapter block..I also have 03/04 cobra pumps...And i should not have to ask this but u did remove the schrader from the schrader valve before you hooked up the fuel line right....
 
:rlaugh: While it was my first Nawz install I am somewhat mechanically inclined. :D Yes I removed it. I even confirmed the system worked by unpluging the NOS solinoid and pressing the wide open switch at idle just for a split second and hear the car bog (idling in the garage) and spray a little fuel out.
I am not sure what his cars problem is though, it has had a stumble there before the nitrous that we havent been able to figure out. :shrug:

But I understand you asking the question because I have seen people leave the valve in even after I asked if it needs to be removed. :rlaugh:
 
i ordered a bottle heater from dynotune.com. it was pretty cheap and it has a pressure regulator so itll keep within 50 psi of what i set. im hoping the weather is good on friday to make it to the track to test it.
 
I have an MSD digital windwo switch and didn't need a tach adapter. Jut wire it into one of your coil wires for the rpm signal.

I set my "window" from 3-6k rpm.


here's the thread about my switch...

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/755443-need-wiring-help-rpm-window-switch.html

Thats not an accurate tach signal your getting...i had my digital tach hooked up the same way and the rpms bounced all over the place. I put a tach adapter on and bam it works perfect now.

On a tach its one thing, but for a window switch i would damn sure want the most accurate signal i could get...
 
Been running it that way for two years without any problem. It has a digital rpm readout on the switch that is right on the money with my stock tachometer. I know a couple people that have the same switch hooked up the same way and they don't have any problems either.:shrug: