Engine Obstinate Pilot Bearing removal

FastDriver · Feb 12, 2026

I've gotten myself into a pickle, here, boys. Just a simple pilot bearing swap has ruined my day. I've got a great little puller, but the bearing race is so stubborn that all I managed to do with it was gut the internals and meave myself with almost nothing to grab onto. Started with a grinder until I realized I had gotten into the crank a little, and decided to stop and reassess before I really screw something up.

Here's the tool that can't get enough of a ledge on the backside of the pilot race:

Here's where I'm at:

Without any further advice, I'll go back after it with the grinder until it's out or gone, but is there a better method? This is sure to scar the crank even more by the time I'm done.

gkomo · Feb 12, 2026

This level of work is way above my paygrade, but could you use like one of those little bits people use to port intakes/heads? Don't know the name of what those are but might allow you to be a little more precise. Unless thats what you're already using and calling it a grinder.

FastDriver · Feb 12, 2026

Yeah I started with a rounded grinding bit, but I'm going to go to more of a cylinder that's squarish if you get my meaning at the back. That seems like the only thing that makes any sense to me right now and just wanted to see what other people thought.

The only other two things that a mechanic in my family is suggested are a torch and smashing the hell out of the brittle type of metal that this apparently is to the point that it shatters. I think even still that grinding might be the best way ahead for me.

nickyb · Feb 12, 2026

So the old bread trick won't work. Might be worth trying .

Kid wita 5oh · Feb 12, 2026

X2 on the bread trick

If not a small hacksaw/jig saw/ body saw(air) make one, maybe 2, cuts through and it will fall right out.

FastDriver · Feb 12, 2026

Thanks, guys. I'm convinced hydraulic action won't work with the limited area on the backend of what's left of the bearing race. So, I plan to drill, tap, and grind my way to getting this b&%*@ out.

AeroCoupe · Feb 12, 2026

Can you tap threads into it, run all thread in there and then use the slide hammer on that?

Rcdgl · Feb 12, 2026

F0r some broke timing cover bolts, I got a bunch of diamond tip dremel bits at Lowes, and ground/cut the bolt out of the hole with a Dremel tool until I could just knock the rest out. The same technique should work on this, cut a slot, then hammer it from the walls and get it out.

manicmechanic007 · Feb 12, 2026

Too late for bread
Going to need a sharp chisel or a die grinder to split the race

General karthief · Feb 12, 2026

Hope you know to be careful about smack'n a installed crankshaft, grind on it and a chisel.
Oh, patience
Lots of deep breaths..

Oh, beer helps too.

manicmechanic007 · Feb 12, 2026

Yes, careful does it, done it a hundred times. Ready for another one next week on a 96 F350 7.5
Hopefully the puller or bread trick works for me

stormsedge · Feb 13, 2026

Personally, I’d give the bread/grease trick a try before grinding any more on it. What’s to lose?

manicmechanic007 · Feb 13, 2026

Futile
It will not work once the inside lip is gone

LILCBRA · Feb 13, 2026

1/8" carbide burr, 1 or 2 cuts through to [almost] the OD of the race, then a good sharp chisel to the thin sections to break it outta there. That's what I'd try at this point.

JD1964 · Feb 13, 2026

I don’t think heating the crank hub would do much since you’d really need to heat the entire hub.

But what about chilling the bearing race to shrink it a smidge?

JD1964 · Feb 13, 2026

How about tack weld a bolt just barely inserted and attach it to a slide hammer?

FastDriver · Feb 13, 2026

I don't weld, but I like that idea, a lot.

I like JDs idea of chilling it. What's the best way to do that? Upside down canned air?

JD1964 · Feb 13, 2026

Dry ice if you can get some

JD1964 · Feb 13, 2026

You can always pay a mobile welder service to visit if you don’t have a friend with a portable welder

JD1964 · Feb 13, 2026

Matter of fact, having an experienced welder perform this task is probably the way to go. They’ll know the right settings and process to make something stick adequately to get it done. For instance, molecular makeup of the two pieces getting welded together is important to consider. Welding together dissimilar material doesn’t always work well

Engine Obstinate Pilot Bearing removal

FastDriver

I was uncomfortably high & wearing a helmet

gkomo

now i can hopefully expect to receive the shaft

FastDriver

I was uncomfortably high & wearing a helmet

nickyb

I gotta say i never painted my nuts, Never Ever

Kid wita 5oh

I'm definitely not in the original hole

FastDriver

I was uncomfortably high & wearing a helmet

AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes

Rcdgl

manicmechanic007

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

manicmechanic007

stormsedge

manicmechanic007

LILCBRA

I wish I didn't have all of these balls in the air

JD1964

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

JD1964

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

FastDriver

I was uncomfortably high & wearing a helmet

JD1964

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

JD1964

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

JD1964

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

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Engine Obstinate Pilot Bearing removal

I was uncomfortably high & wearing a helmet

now i can hopefully expect to receive the shaft

I was uncomfortably high & wearing a helmet

I gotta say i never painted my nuts, Never Ever

I'm definitely not in the original hole

I was uncomfortably high & wearing a helmet

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

I wish I didn't have all of these balls in the air

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

I was uncomfortably high & wearing a helmet

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

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