I mean it’s a substantial difference between the two, one is .054 and the other is at like .07. I’m guessing the spark would jump to the closer of the two anyway right?You are splitting hairs here. Just be consistent with all of the plugs.
I believe it’s stock short block at least that’s what the guy I bought it from told me. hm I really hope it isn’t the rings. I noticed some oil coming out through the valve cover bolt holes. Is it possible that dripped into the spark plug hole? I’ll put some pics below.Did you swap the HCI onto an existing short block? If so can you do a leak down test on each cylinder? Compression looks good but a leak down wells you a little more. With oil on the plugs it almost sounds like blow by and once the plugs foul the car runs rough. If the heads were new hopefully you can rule out worn valve seats and seals. Would be a piston ring issue possibly a PCV system issue?
Once the mechanicals are proven out then you can chase ignition issues like the distributor and/or its components and tha coil or the ECU.
The car has never had any codes besides 94/44 which I believe I don’t have to be concerned about since I don’t have catsClear the codes then drive it around doing some in town and highway time then check for codes.
Nope, no weird smokes coming out of the exhaust.Oil from a small leak like that will not get past the spark plugs into the combustion chamber.
i don't see any real problems with those plugs, maybe a little darker on a couple, compression is acceptable, does it smoke (blue) at any point?
What’s the process for checking the Pcv system? It does have a new motorcraft Pcv valve.2nd the General's comments on the valve cover oil drips (not even gonna call those leaks). I still say do a leak down test on each cylinder as that confirms the mechanical side of the motor. With the short block being an unknown to you this would be one of the first things I would do but I do understand as not everyone has a leak down tester and air compressor handy. Another quick thing you can do is double check the PCV system and make sure it's in working order as it could either be contributing to existing issues or creating them.
Did you do another smoke test? If you do not mind I want to revisit the fuel system. You have a new Kirban FPR (solid FPR by the way), new fuel pump, new FoMoCo 24 lb/hr injectors, and a Pro-M calibrated for the injectors. Assuming you have replaced the fuel filter? What brand and flow rate is the fuel pump?
I am going to go back to fuel pressure settings, stock fuel pressure is 38-39 psi with the vacuum line unhooked/plugged and with the vacuum line connected it should be around 30 psi. You stated that yours is 38 psi with the vacuum unhooked/plugged and connected to the FPR. This is a problem as the fuel pressure should fall with the vacuum connected and then rise as you get on the throttle. I am not saying this is all of your problems but if it is idling at 38 psi and is should be 30 psi then the ECU is having to compensate for the additional pressure i.e. fuel at idle. Again, i do not know if this is enough to cause all the issues you are having but it cannot help.
No my valve covers came with a normal screw on oil cap so I’m good there.Change the temperature sending unit. Mine did that and I put a new one in and the gauge went back close to where I was used to it being. Also, these cars came stock with a 192 deg F thermostat so running a colder one will move the needle.
Sounds like your fuel system is good to go. PCV system is pretty basic in that as long as the check valve is working and has a good seal the lower intake you should be good to go.
I noticed you have Motorsport valve covers. What did you do to replace the oil fill neck on the passenger side valve cover? Reason I ask is on mine I had a push in cap that was vented and I just capped off the old vacuum line that went to the stock filler neck. This allowed unmetered air to enter the motor and looked like this:
Fixed it by doing this:
Welded a TFS fill neck onto the valve cover and then drilled the neck and welded an 1/4" NPT bung on it so I could screw in a 1/4" barbed fitting to put the vacuum hose on.
Again, not saying this is your problem but all these small things add up.
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