Ok Sold supercharger/turbo on its way...

MY 85 GT

10 Year Member
Mar 7, 2008
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New Jersey
Im kinda excited I sold my Paxton SN93 pretty fast...Now i have to place the order for the turbo kit...that will be in 2 weeks gives me time to come up with the extra dough...LOL...Ok i want to run around 8-10 psi...Question..He sells a kit with a Maf that needs the flange welded to the cold side tube . This is what he sent.. Our maf is a Pro-m drop in, calibrated to injectors with our mounting kit. Would that be better to use then the new Abaco DBX 95mm maf...then i would have to cut the cold side and use couplers to join it in...:shrug:...Im using gt40 heads 5 angle valve job,stainless steel exhaust valves,Trickflow valve spring upgrade,teflon coated valve seals,1.7 roller rockers, Comp cam 212 int @.050 224 exh @.050 114 center line and 544/544 lift with the 1.7'sTrickflow track heat intake,70mm BBK TB,42lb injectors,255lph fuel pump,aeromotive adjustable FPR, What igniton should i use?..Msd?....What type of Hp do you think i will have?...Do you think i will make more HP then my paxton witht he same mods?
 
I'm not sure if the MAF they sent you would be better or not. It may be smaller than the 95mm, but if they're sending it with the kit then it must be tested with it and work well. The 95 may be too big for only 8lbs of boost, especially with only a 70mm throttle body. Just as long as their MAF is larger than 70mm, which its probably 75 or 80.
 
Thanks ...The good thing about the DBX is that it is tuneable..you can download info from your labtop to changefule trim and stuff like that...I heard a few guys running them on turbo cars..That and the shop doing the work said there a nice set-up...The turbo kit has 3 different waste gate sprinds 5-6 psi 8-10 psi and 12-14 psi...so it would be 8-10 i will be using...that should make some decent HP no?
 
Did you really just ask if a turbo kit will make the same power as a SN93 blower?

You sir, need your man card revoked.

As for the MAF, they all should work as long as you get it tuned(which you are...aren't you?) but the DBX may be nice because if there is a bend in front of the MAF you may have issues with certain MAF's. I didn't have a tuner local to me so we tried to do mail order with my setup, even using the most repeatable MAF setup possible it still wouldn't work because of how the Hellion kit had the bends. If it was tuned in person on a dyno, he probably could of fixed it but I didn't have the liberty of doing so.

AEM is how I went, ended up being CHEAPER than the MAF/Tune/Chip combo...oh well, live and learn.
 
why limit yourself to 8-10 psi? I forsee another thread 2 weeks after you get this thing installed asking what kind of power 15-20 psi will make. If you are building go for the gusto and crank that puppy up. Boost is addictive and you will not stop with 10 psi.....
 
why limit yourself to 8-10 psi? I forsee another thread 2 weeks after you get this thing installed asking what kind of power 15-20 psi will make. If you are building go for the gusto and crank that puppy up. Boost is addictive and you will not stop with 10 psi.....

Stock block so i want to limit the boost so i dont go cracking the block in half...:D
 
Thanks Guys...I will retain the stock block for now....This is a budget build...I will need to get it tuned for sure..How do they tune a car like mine ?....do they burn a chip for it?....I just need to find someone in the area that can do it....The shop i use doesnt have a dyno so im sue he can get it up and running then i will need to bring it somewhere for a good TUNE....:)
 
Ok say you had the same car one had a supercharger 8 psi and the other car had a turbo 8 psi what would have more HP..?...and why?..I know your turning a belt with a blower so i can guess that robs some hp...so what other reasons are there?
 
Ok say you had the same car one had a supercharger 8 psi and the other car had a turbo 8 psi what would have more HP..?...and why?..I know your turning a belt with a blower so i can guess that robs some hp...so what other reasons are there?

you cant really compare the two, its not as black and white as you think, there are a ton of variables, but the turbo is going to have a better curve and make way more TQ everywhere if it is set up and sized correctly
 
Ok say you had the same car one had a supercharger 8 psi and the other car had a turbo 8 psi what would have more HP..?...and why?..I know your turning a belt with a blower so i can guess that robs some hp...so what other reasons are there?


Efficiency of each system. All turbos and/or superchargers are not created equally.

Many assume that turbo setups are free HP because they use expended gasses to power them. That's not true. Those expended gasses are a parasitic loss (due to the exhaust restrictions) just as taking crank power is to a supercharger. Granted, the loss created from powering a turbo is usually considerably less than that for the rotational loss to a supercharger.

Then it becomes a question of powerband. Turbos on our cars tend to either be undersized for making that peak HP they're generally known for or are larger and tend to take their time to spool. The latter makes for some great dyno number but have a gradual rise then WHAM! All the HP you could ever want starting from roughly 3500 RPM. A centrifugal tends to have nice peak number and a more steady rise across the RPM range although usually get beat out by turbos for peak power.

Then there's roots or screw type superchargers. Some just flat-out, more efficient than others depending on boost range and application. They seem to have one common demonitaor... Whatever their app. or configuration, they generally don't make the peak numbers of turbos or centrifugals but hit instantly and elevate torque and HP over the entire range. Screw are generally more efficient at elevated power levels while roots/Eaton types are gnerally more efficient at providing nominal boost levels (think abdiatic efficiency at intended boost/power level).


So pick your poison.
 
Efficiency of each system. All turbos and/or superchargers are not created equally.

Many assume that turbo setups are free HP because they use expended gasses to power them. That's not true. Those expended gasses are a parasitic loss (due to the exhaust restrictions) just as taking crank power is to a supercharger. Granted, the loss created from powering a turbo is usually considerably less than that for the rotational loss to a supercharger.

Then it becomes a question of powerband. Turbos on our cars tend to either be undersized for making that peak HP they're generally known for or are larger and tend to take their time to spool. The latter makes for some great dyno number but have a gradual rise then WHAM! All the HP you could ever want starting from roughly 3500 RPM. A centrifugal tends to have nice peak number and a more steady rise across the RPM range although usually get beat out by turbos for peak power.

Then there's roots or screw type superchargers. Some just flat-out, more efficient than others depending on boost range and application. They seem to have one common demonitaor... Whatever their app. or configuration, they generally don't make the peak numbers of turbos or centrifugals but hit instantly and elevate torque and HP over the entire range. Screw are generally more efficient at elevated power levels while roots/Eaton types are gnerally more efficient at providing nominal boost levels (think abdiatic efficiency at intended boost/power level).


So pick your poison.

lots of bad info here