On a budget.. which motor would you build?

dubbsix

Member
Oct 18, 2006
347
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Katy,TX
Guys i have an 89 5.0 that im trying to turn into ATLEAST a 12 second car. I'd like to be deep into the 12's very close to 11's. Im on an extreme budget and cant figure out which motor route to take:

Stock Stroke 351w
Stock rods w/ arp bolts
10.5 hyper pistons
Stock ported heads w/ upgraded valves + matching cam
single plane intake + carb
Long tube headers

or

Stock stroke 460
Stock rods w/ arp bolts
10.5:1 hyper pistons
Stock ported heads + matching cam
single plane intake + carb
Long tube headers

Now with the 351 from what i understand it should be a straight forward swap. The only down side is that if i dont go with aftermarket heads then i may end up in the same attainable power range as just building up my healthy 302 and/or being disappointed with the HP when the motor is done.

The 460 i know will give me clost to 400HP depending on my cam, intake and port job. The draw back of the 460 is added weight, the cost of the 460 swap kit.

If it were you, which would you choose and why?
 
putting in a 351 isn't really "just a straight forward swap" I don't think. You'll need motor mounts at least and an oil pan I think, maybe special bellhousing. Putting in a 460 takes similar different components. I would make sure you know exactly what you need for both swaps until you decide which one. If you have massive traction, I'd go with the 460 for the amazing torque.
 
Unless your current motor is shot, keep it and...

Take off weight, higher gear, tires, shocks/struts/springs, converter if it's an auto, subframe connectors, 100shot N20, short belt, pulleys, timing, thermostat, etc. You'll eventually have to do the chassis and drivetrain mods anyway. This should get you low mid 12.
 
Unless your current motor is shot, keep it and...

Take off weight, higher gear, tires, shocks/struts/springs, converter if it's an auto, subframe connectors, 100shot N20, short belt, pulleys, timing, thermostat, etc. You'll eventually have to do the chassis and drivetrain mods anyway. This should get you low mid 12.

+1
i would do a top end kit. (h/c/i) that should get you in the 12's
then a smal shot of the juice should get you in the 11's
then when you get more cash down the road, sell the giggle gas and slap on a
supercharger and run mid to low 11's or a turbo and run 10's

there is a lot of hidden costs that will add up with a eng swap. unless you get the block for free or something i would prob be cheaper to do it with your curent 302
 
Guys! Thanks for the posts. I guess my eyes are bigger than my mouth because i am worried about making too much power for the stock 302 block, but i guess i wont be making that much anyhow with my budget.

My stock motor runs nice and strong. compression test checked out all cylinders in spec. No leaks, or pings when i get on it. I guess i'll be rebuilding that motor... especially since i come across gt40 setups all the time!

Would you guys keep it EFI or go carb? I live in CA but this will be a track only car.
 
I have a 351w in my car and I'll tell you its awesome. 302's just don't cut it in my opinion. I know there are 302's out there that make more power then me but if you want reliable power and no worries of cracking the block when you run big HP numbers then the 351w is the way to go.
Now all that being said if I were you I would build a 460. It is not hard to get 500hp out of a big block. Yes you will be adding wieght to the car but you can trim the car down to a respectable weight. After playing with big blocks in muscle cars I really wish I swapped a 460 into my stang.

Go look at the videos in this thread and tell me you don't want to own a big block 5.0L. http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=721062
 
Cost end kit or 460?

So looking at most top end kits they cost a shade over 2200 bucks. I have a friend who owns a machine shop that can rebuild the 460 for me for 1500.00 and thats for the long block, plus the 900 for the swap kit.

Im still a bit iffy on the 302. I just think i'd have to throw alot of bolt ons to get it where i want it when i could just go with a big block.
 
Chassis should hold

OH!

Before i install any of the engines i have discussed, the car will be setup with the following:

UPR Race double adjustable upper and lower control arms
Full subframe connectors
8.8 with a spool and 3.73 gears
Upper and lower torque boxes welded and reinforced.

I am building the chassis first. Im about halfway done installing the parts listed above.
 
Stock ported heads + matching cam
QUOTE]

This is something that comes up over and over again, and the consensus is that you get a relatively low bang for the buck here. Get aluminum heads (Tr*** Fl** TW)...they'll handle a LOT more cam than any ported OEM 460 or 351W with no clearance issues with your stock, (forged!) pistons.

I guess you need to figure out how much power you need to make at your target weight to get you 11 sec.:

http://www.race-cars.net/calculators/et_calculator.html

And you have to keep in mind all the incidentals with a swap besides machine work.

So I still think, hands down, H/C/I and a carb on your 302 will get you the power you need for the least amount of money, and WAY less hassle.
 
In my opinion building power on a low cubic inch motor is alot more fun.Guys at Sutton High Performance are running 8.5 on a modular 309ci at 35lbs. Anyone can build power on a high ci motor. Thats my opinion.have fun man. Either swap would be cool tho.:nice:
 
A friend of mine has a coupe with a 393 that he built himself (he even machined the block himself...used to do it for a living) and you wouldn't believe how simple the build up is. It's got Pro Topline aluminum heads on it, i think he said 2.20 or so valves, a custom cam and a Stealth intake with a jetted 750 on it and he said it dynoed just over 500hp on the engine dyno. All the money is pretty much in the heads and rotating assembly/block machining (that is if you go carbed).