Order of Modifying Stang....

[Kerpal]

I agree about the brakes. I'm surprised that nobody has really mentioned them yet because I think they're pretty awful... very little stopping power and hard to modulate. I don't think they're acceptable for any car let alone a modded 5.0. I'm looking into inexpensive upgrades while I save up to go 5 lug.

My philosophy with an older car is always to upgrade what's broke or needs attention first so the car is reliable and in good stock shape before mods are done. On my '90 GT that means a complete tune up, valve cover gaskets, door seals & hinge pins, then an aluminum radiator, electric fan, adjustable tie rod ends (bumpsteer kit), temp gauge and probably a 130 amp alternator since these areas all need attention. And this is considering my car is in better than average condition from what I've seen out there.

I'm used to a good handling car so after that I'll probably do subframes, springs and C/C plates.

Once all that's done I'll probably be more than ready for more speed and do headers, pulleys, CAI and gears. Luckily I'm used to much slower cars so I can be patient with a stock 5.0 for a while.

Then I'll probably leave it alone while I save for all the 5 lug parts and a blower.

Luckily my car came with an exhaust and H pipe; and I have a nice stereo setup from my old car, otherwise I'd be very tempted to do those right away. Of course the very first thing I did after getting my car though was to detail the hell out of it inside and out. Now it looks 100 times better although I still want to borrow a d/a buffer and go over the paint more throughly. I can't stand seeing a modded car with unwaxed paint and a filthy interior.

 

[QDRHRSE]

my theory:
Gears, exhaust, shifter, u/d pulleys, then get into the more 'advanced' mods.

I think this is pretty much what I'd do. I would do exhaust 1st- otherwise- Ditto.

 

[cleanLX]

Okay, well I am going to do MY list... so here it is:

1. full tune up, replace/fix wore out ill-operating equipment. Some decent tires, replacement brakes/shocks.struts, good oil and filters should fall in here.
2. Sub Frame Connectors, big beefy, and welded in.
4. Short Throw Shifter, they're all better than stock, I like Hurst.
3. 3.73-4.10 rear end gears.
19. port stock lower intake
22. 19lb calibrated 76mm C'n'L Mass Air Meter.
23. Larger Fuel Pump (255lph).
30. Long tubes w/ matching off road H pipe.(cat back optional and for sound only)
7. ASP Underdrive Pulleys
6. 3G Alternator Upgrade, only to allow...
26. Electric Fan... only to rid the propellor noise of the clutched unit.
31. slicks and skinnies.

Welcome to a reliable 12 second daily driver.

 

[crunchie12268]

WOW you did 12.90 with those mods... that is impressive I think.... Man, maybe when I hit the track this summer I can get some decent times. I would be happy with 13's

 

[HISSIN50]

Does anybody think that the brakes should come first?

i think i (and Mike) addressed the brakes and their importance on the other thread where you originally asked the question.

 

[crunchie12268]

oh yeah, i forgot... I think this thread is going no where. Oh well

 

[cleanLX]

WOW you did 12.90 with those mods... that is impressive I think.... Man, maybe when I hit the track this summer I can get some decent times. I would be happy with 13's

Nope.
I had a stock unported lower.
Other than that, yes.

 

[crunchie12268]

Clean LX, what made the biggest difference in your stang?

 

[crunchie12268]

Have you seen all the views on this thread? This is important.... come on guys, start giving advice

 

[5.0 Nostalgia]

You said in a previous post this thread is not going anywhere. I really think that what needs to be said about this already has been. There can't be one basic plan for setting up a combination because everyone is looking to do different things. Drag, street, corners, show, rice, everyone has different preferences. The person building their car to drag isn't going to go out and waste money on big rims and a stereo to weigh the car down. At the same time, a high school kid that drives their car to school everyday is not going to want a cut axle and a powerglide.

 

[cleanLX]

Clean LX, what made the biggest difference in your stang?

As far as performance, definately gears. I run 4.10's, but, if my car was used for lots of highway miles, I'd go back to the 3.73's I had before.
4.10's combined with wrinkle wall tires would be the biggest ET shrinkers.
After that, Long tubes, then the meter... pullies helped a little, and in my opinion/experience, an electric fan is like a cat back, for sound only.

As far as daily driving, the sub frames and shifter really changed the feel of the car.

I didn't run a ported lower because I was making a run at 12 second time slip with the stock motor. I do however run a Tom Moss prep'd lower now.

 

[willys1]

As far as performance, definately gears. I run 4.10's, but, if my car was used for lots of highway miles, I'd go back to the 3.73's I had before.
4.10's combined with wrinkle wall tires would be the biggest ET shrinkers.
After that, Long tubes, then the meter... pullies helped a little, and in my opinion/experience, an electric fan is like a cat back, for sound only.

As far as daily driving, the sub frames and shifter really changed the feel of the car.

I didn't run a ported lower because I was making a run at 12 second time slip with the stock motor. I do however run a Tom Moss prep'd lower now.

Ported or prep'd?? Whats the difference?

 

[rsw007]

free mods first "timing,air box,etc." then gears, pulleys, elec. fan. then stiffining and suspension.

 

[crunchie12268]

5.0 nostalgia.... the car was a stock, STREET setup, which is what a lot of people on here start out with. There is a SMART way to upgrade your car, people just do it when they have money and go after what they want without building a good foundation.... I was just trying to figure out what that foundation is... ok?