Ordering my suspension set-up. Need advice(s)..

CottonBurnerz · Apr 16, 2004

This set up is going to cost me around $1000+ So, I want to do it right.

Here are my set-up:

$180 - Steeda Sport springs
$500 - Tokico 5-way illumnas shocks/struts
$200 (+200?) - Steeda or Pro3i LCA (Havn't decided whether to get UCA or not.. that's another $200)
$160 - Caster Camber plate (3 bolts version... Steeda spring's drop is not much at all)

total is over $1000

so my questions are. Do I really need upper control arm? $200 is a lot of money to spend and I've read that it's not really necessary at all..

which lower control arm should I go with? Steeda aluminum or steel? Or Pro3i? with jack or w/o jack? (wtf is jack?)

Should I spend the extra cash for new c/c that is not necessary at all?

Any comments?

Or would I be better off spending the money somewhere else?

CottonBurnerz · Apr 16, 2004

bump.. any comments at all?

vvzer0incvv · Apr 16, 2004

Your setup looks pretty solid...a lot of people just do lca because they make the most difference(or so i've heard ) As for the LCA's: I hear a lot of good things about both. The ones with jackers are used to adjust the ride height of the rear end. Sorry i couldn't be anymore help, but good luck man...i love your car

98 yeller SVT · Apr 16, 2004

springs-good choice.

Shocks-very good choice.

C/C plates- honestly, probably not needed, the stock plates have plenty of adjustment for no more of a drop than you will have, a good alignment shop will have no problem re-aligning your front end after the spring install...unless you are SERIOUSLY into open tracking and trying to squeeze every possible tenths of a lap out, c/c plates are overkill for 90% of people. Spend the $200 on some stiffer front-end bushings to tighten up the fat-ass, push-prone mustang front end.

LCA's- you don't need adjustables (jack) LCA's unless you plan on trying to stuff some slicks under the rear or want to change ride height. Get the steeda standard lowers/uppers if you have money burning a hole in your pocket, they will help your 60 ft. times a little and stiffen the rear A LITTLE...but in order to really "fix" the rear of a Mustang it requires something to help prevent lateral motion (that feeling like the ass end is stepping out from under you when you go around a bumpy curve too fast), and controlling lateral motion means a torque arm/panhard bar ($700) or a 4/5 link set up like Steedas' 5 link ($1000+)

springs, shocks, tighten up the front end as much as you can, stiffen the car up (K brace, SFC's, STB) and get some GOOD, wide tires....and that alone will make a BIG improvement. I'd wait a little while on the LCA/UCA's if I were you.

CottonBurnerz · Apr 17, 2004

Sorry about late reply.

Looks like I can save $350 on c/c and UCA if I don't get them. Will I ever regret not doing them ever?

I also don't know which steeda lca will meet my needs. Aluminum or Steel?

And lastly, I don't need to purchase extra bushing or anything right? Just those parts itself.

Thanks for all the information guys Any more comments are welcome

CottonBurnerz · Apr 17, 2004

Just did some searches and looks like I will be going with FRPP UCA for $65. What do you think?

anyone know 1 good place that gives good price and nice shipping for the parts mentioned above?

I'm looking at

mustangtuning
stangsuspension
partshopper
gefracing

all of the parts are pretty much spread out

babino · Apr 19, 2004

CottonBurnerz said:
Just did some searches and looks like I will be going with FRPP UCA for $65. What do you think?

anyone know 1 good place that gives good price and nice shipping for the parts mentioned above?

I'm looking at

mustangtuning
stangsuspension
partshopper
gefracing

all of the parts are pretty much spread out

I just received the Steeda sport springs I ordered from Mustangtuning. They were great to deal with and free shipping to boot saved some bucks. The shipping did take a couple days longer than expected, but overall I'd order from them again.

I went with the Tokico Mach 1 shocks and struts - got them from FordPartsNetwork and the price and service was very good. Hope I'm not confusing the issue...

RickJamesbch · Apr 19, 2004

Well I am going through the same thing as you Cottonburnerz. As far as LCAs go I am going to try out the non-adjustable Pro3i ones. I figure I spend most of my time here so I might as well spend some money here too. For springs I am going with Eibach pro-kit and I am also going to get Pro3i CC plates. I am not to worried about an adjustable suspension so I just ordered the Tokico HPs. Try www.ageclassic.com or www.speedconcepts.net They both have some good prices.

COBRA_SVT_VERT · Apr 19, 2004

Best bet for the rear (besides what you are doing) is panhard bar / watts link and a torque arm that runs from rear diff parallel to the drive shaft bolting near the rear output shaft. With this, you can do away with the upper control arms all together.

Since you are lowering the front, you need to think about getting the geometry back in line. Either a bumpsteer kit that will lower the tie-rod ends or offset rack bushings to push the steering rack up. Also, shorter sway bar end links and taller ball joints will get everything back parallel again up front.

I wouldn't buy anything from Steeda other than the taller X2 balljoints...their customer service just isn't what it used to be and they buy a lot of their items from some other manufacture.

Check Maximum Motorsports or Griggs for most if not all suspension components.

Make sure you are getting the right weight and lowering stance with those springs.

Here are examples are several that we use on our stangs:

http://www.miracerros.com/mustang/springs_calcs.htm

Good luck,
Ed

CottonBurnerz · Apr 20, 2004

Thanks for all the responses.

I don't think I'm going to get c/c plate (due to noise issue later and I can always add them later if needed.

No upper control arms either (maybe the cheap one from Ford Racing $65) It's a little better than stock ones and that's good enough for me.

All is left is LCA.. either steeda, UPR, or pro3i

Any last comments before I do this?

RickJamesbch · Apr 20, 2004

Well I ordered the Pro3i non-adjustable ones last night. I don't know anyone who has them so I thought I would give them a try. They are only like 160 bucks and I just wanted to "give a little back" since this is a free forum and I am on here all the time. Good luck with whatever you choose.

CottonBurnerz · Apr 20, 2004

cool man. Tell me what you think of it afterwards. I think JonJon has them as well.

So you didn't bought UCA as well? what gives?

RickJamesbch · Apr 20, 2004

CottonBurnerz said:
cool man. Tell me what you think of it afterwards. I think JonJon has them as well.

So you didn't bought UCA as well? what gives?

The guy that is lowering my car for me said I don't need to get new ones, so I didn't. He just lowered his 97 Cobra with pretty much the set up as I just ordered except he has the adjustable aluminum steeda LCAs and said he felt no need to get new uppers. His car is pictured about half way down this thread....HERE

wms004 · Apr 20, 2004

CottonBurnerz said:
This set up is going to cost me around $1000+ So, I want to do it right.

Here are my set-up:

$180 - Steeda Sport springs
$500 - Tokico 5-way illumnas shocks/struts
$200 (+200?) - Steeda or Pro3i LCA (Havn't decided whether to get UCA or not.. that's another $200)
$160 - Caster Camber plate (3 bolts version... Steeda spring's drop is not much at all)

total is over $1000

so my questions are. Do I really need upper control arm? $200 is a lot of money to spend and I've read that it's not really necessary at all..

which lower control arm should I go with? Steeda aluminum or steel? Or Pro3i? with jack or w/o jack? (wtf is jack?)

Should I spend the extra cash for new c/c that is not necessary at all?

Any comments?

Or would I be better off spending the money somewhere else?

for the uppers i'd go with FRPP.. 65 bucks and MM recommends them. Steeda steel lowers are the same weight as stock I was told by one of their employees, and that the aluminums are of course lighter than stock. I'm getting the aluminum ones this summer. Since you are being lowered to a nice height, no sense in buying the weight jackers.
C/C plates aren't really necessary for your setup, but it would make the front end a little tighter since it would eliminate that little bushing stuff. You shouldn't have any problem getting it aligned w/out c/c plates tho.
You could save money by going to a different set of dampers, but the tokico 5-ways are fine. I'm going with bilsteins in the rear later (only like 85 bucks each).

-wade

ASilver2001GT · Apr 20, 2004

Steeda Springs are excellent

Strange Adjustables are cheaper than Tokico's and perform just as well

Focus on the LCA for now, the Steeda ones are real nice, the new Steeda adjustables are amazing. UCA are nice to have but if money is tight, I'd hold off. I have the X2C motorsports UCA and LCA, the LCA are real nice but I'm not fond of the uppers. There is too much play in them, had to use washers to account for the excess spacing.

As for C/C plates, I'm pretty sure with the Steeda Sports you will have enough adjustability in the stock plates to get the car back into alignment...That could save you a few $$$ too.

CottonBurnerz · Apr 20, 2004

Thanks again for the responses.

Guess I'm going with

steeda spring
steeda LCA
tokico 5-way
frpp UCA

I was thinking of Steeda X2 balljoint as well. Should I go head and get them? What about bumpsteer kit? Is there anything else on the list that I'd be better off doing them now so I won't regret not doing it again later?

mustang35thann · May 4, 2004

My suggestion is to go with Aluminum or Chromally. If you ever get serious about drag racing you will want to cut weight. You don't want to go back and replace the steel ones with aluminum/chromally later in the game. Do it right the first time. Unfortunately I'm going back now to save weight and switch to aluminum. I'm either going to get the Steeda Aluminum weight jackers or the UPR adjustables for LCA's. I have the maximum motorsports adjustable LCA's now but I keep blowing out the 3 piece bushings during a hard launch (6000 RPM). I like the steeda weight jacker because it gives me the same adjustability as the MM but they are expensive.

Does anyone have the UPR Pro series adjustable LCA's??? Does the car sit lower in the rear compared to stock ride height?

GoBabyVroommm · May 4, 2004

Good luck with the set up you get because i'm not to happy with the one i bought. When i first got it first few days it was kick A.. Now its just ok! I have the Eibach sportline 2inch drop with KYB gas shocks/struts/quad. Good thing is i only spent $600 dollars on everything.

Good and bad:

Good
1 Sits really nice.
2.Hits turns really good.
3.Rides smooth

Bad
1. Custom exhaust hits everything <Chicago Streets>
2. Can't get out the hole fast enough <burn out city>
3. Car goes side ways big time 1,2,and 3 gear.

I think i wanted more of a drag set up than a drift set up. Be smart what you pick you don't want to be kicking yourself in the A.. later.

Ordering my suspension set-up. Need advice(s)..

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