Progress Thread Out With The New - In With The Old

JD1964 · Jul 29, 2017

This thing had a race converter in it. But it wasn't stalling as high as it should have been. I wonder if the higher stall speed caused this damage? And I wonder if the low stall speed was a result of the damage

This is the converter that was in it.
https://www.tsirace.com/shop?olsFocus=false&olsPage=products/ford-aod-big-shot-10-ls-3000-3400-rpms

JD1964 · Jul 29, 2017

Band is complete toast. No friction material left at all.

4th gear drum scored badly. Is should look smooth, not scraped like this

JD1964 · Jul 29, 2017

I think I can do this. I'm up to about $320 which includes servo upgrade, 2" drum with mechanical diode upgrade and 2" red eagle band.

Everything else looks good so far

JD1964 · Jul 29, 2017

Toss in another $300 for a TQ converter. 1800 stall

Seals...$40? maybe

General karthief · Jul 29, 2017

Sounds like a plan to me. (what da heck do I know bout transmissions)

JD1964 · Jul 29, 2017

I'm doin it for her. If it was from me I would revert this thing back to 5spd. But she dont drive stick so.....I'm tryin to help her dig a foxbody ya know

CarMichael Angelo · Jul 30, 2017

The only part that's really hard to do with regard to rebuilding an auto trans is that the tools required to do it safely are not cheap, readily available, or easy to make. I rebuilt my 4r70w myself, but had to take the clutch drums to a trans shop to have them compress the spring to get the things back together. One of them was do-able, but the other one(s) had far too much spring pressure to try and rig up some kind of clamp system to do it w/o having the thing blow up in my face.

The rest is simply a matter of attention to detail...a good trans shop manual for the model is an absolute must.

JD1964 · Jul 30, 2017

I want to upgrade the reverse drum assembly to the 2" band with mechanical diode from a 4r70w. I'm trying to figure out which reverse drum assembly will work with the rest of my 89 AOD core and parts. I understand there's one type that goes with a 2.84 first gear setup which is the later models 4r70w. I assume my AOD has 2.40 first now and I'd like to keep it that way. I mean good grief, the rear is 410 so I don't need a lower first. I think I need an early 4r70w reverse drum assembly.

Chuckman · Jul 30, 2017

madmike1157 said:
The only part that's really hard to do with regard to rebuilding an auto trans is that the tools required to do it safely are not cheap, readily available, or easy to make. I rebuilt my 4r70w myself, but had to take the clutch drums to a trans shop to have them compress the spring to get the things back together. One of them was do-able, but the other one(s) had far too much spring pressure to try and rig up some kind of clamp system to do it w/o having the thing blow up in my face.

The rest is simply a matter of attention to detail...a good trans shop manual for the model is an absolute must.

There's a video series on the tube where the guy built a "press" out of 2x4s to get those pistons out/in. look up transmission bench 4r70w (same process for the aod/aode as well). dudes a little boring but was pretty in depth.

For the 2" od band you'll need the aode drum (and diode or owc)and center support/sun shell, and maybe some other small parts to go with them. pic looks like you might have all that though? the reverse band is totally separate and other than material there's not an upgrade for it (nor does there need to be since its only applied in ....reverse).

RangerJoe · Jul 31, 2017

Chuckman said:
There's a video series on the tube where the guy built a "press" out of 2x4s to get those pistons out/in. look up transmission bench 4r70w (same process for the aod/aode as well). dudes a little boring but was pretty in depth.

For the 2" od band you'll need the aode drum (and diode or owc)and center support/sun shell, and maybe some other small parts to go with them. pic looks like you might have all that though? the reverse band is totally separate and other than material there's not an upgrade for it (nor does there need to be since its only applied in ....reverse).

I have watched this series of videos. VERY informative! But he talks about like the dry eyes commercial guy.

Joe

JD1964 · Jul 31, 2017

All parts on order. $679 plus whatever fluid will cost.

Forward drum with mechaical diode clutch $199

Rebuild kit with all gaskets and seals - stock clutches $122

2" red eagle OD band $19

Used output shaft with 7 tooth speedo drive gear $89 (needed only to correct speedo for 4.10 rear - cheapest way)

21 tooth speedo driven gear $15

Sonnax OD servo kit $110

Stock Dacco TQ converter $110

Filter $12

Instructional DVD on overhaul $34

As for valve body, the transmission already has a Bauman shift kit which was performing well, so I'm retaining that.

I've been checking out the vids on Youtube as well.

JD1964 · Aug 1, 2017

I'm trying to decide whether to spend another $50 on an adapter to mount the case to my engine stand. My other idea is to build a rudimentary jig out of 2x4's so I can stand the case up inside of it. I could also lay it down and roll it over in said home made 2x4 jig.

90sickfox · Aug 1, 2017

How many times will you need said adapter ? 2x4s always come in handy...

JD1964 · Aug 1, 2017

Luckily the tail of the AOD comes off and thus presents a mounting point. So here's the idea I developed. Bolt 2x4's across the tail. Keep enough room in the center for the output shaft to move through. Build legs with 4 pcs 4x4 about 12" long. This will allow the setup to stand high enough off the floor to allow the output shaft into position without hitting the floor. Since the governor and tail housing can go on last, lay it down, remove stand, slap them on and done!

JD1964 · Aug 2, 2017

I think I'm getting the converter that would originally be put behind the the 351 engines. It's a about 200 rpm tighter than the ones put behind 302 and the v6's. I figure with stock cam and 4.10 rear, a nice tight converter is the way to go. 4.10's are plenty of additional torque. No need for any additional slippage

MY 85 GT · Aug 2, 2017

I was going to Trade My foxbody for this i think just before you bought it....Im kinda glad the deal feel thru now seeing what you found....it looks like a nice car tho..im sure once you go thru it she will be a really nice foxbody.

JD1964 · Aug 6, 2017

Got the Dacco F52LS (low stall) converter in. Still waiting on the other trans parts. Meanwhile I got my 2x4 stand built. It bolts to the tail housing mounts. Gives full access to everything but the install of tail housing which can come last. Sturdy, stable and cheap!

Btw, how do I get the pictures to orient correctly? Nothing I try works. Holding phone both ways, flipping pic after the fact, keeps putting pic in on its side.

JD1964 · Aug 7, 2017

Another decision to make. This one is on the valve train for the red convertible. I have pulled the X303 cam and its up for sale. Excellent condition by the way and comes with the longer pushrods to accommodate the smaller base circle of the cam.

Anyway my question here is about the valve springs currently on the GT40 heads that are on the car. They clearly appear to be aftermarket springs and retainers and they also have cups under the seats. Nothing wrong with them but they were put in to match the X303 cam. I now have the stock HO cam back in the motor. On the shelf, I have a full set of stock springs and retainers from my E7 heads off my 92 lx. They have about 60k miles on them. I'm thinking maybe I should pull the aftermarket springs and retainers currently on the car and sell them along with the cam and pushrods.

Since I'm running the stock cam now, are the stock springs and retainers from the E7 heads good enough for use on the GT40 heads that are on the car?

Here's a pic of the aftermarket valve springs that are currently installed.

General karthief · Aug 7, 2017

You have been struck by upbucket, pic didn't come through, bugger, not knowing how much higher the spring pressures are I'd say leave them, they likely would be more stable in the higher rpms and better than stock. JMO and not based on any real knowledge, expressed or implied.

JD1964 · Aug 7, 2017

After more thought, I think the high performance dual springs that are one there now are not needed with a stock cam that will rarely even see 5500 rpm. If anything they might even rob a few horsepower from the extra stress they put on the otherwise stock valve train. Imma pull em.

Progress Thread Out With The New - In With The Old

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

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there is enough sticking out to grab on to

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

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my rearend will smell so minty fresh,

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I leave the horn on while driving

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there is enough sticking out to grab on to

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands

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Attachments

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

Attachments

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

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