Overheating situation need a Wise person

[S&B]

Hey guys, here is the situation:
New engine goes in, Same setup, now my car doesn’t want to cool down, Once I hit 180 it just keeps going. But then when I park it slowly comes back down from 220 or higher. It used to cool ok, sometimes ran hot when in allot of traffic before. I even added a pusher fan on the front to make sure I had adequate air flow Here is the setup. The fans do turn on at 180 but it does cool the car ?

Alum. three core radiator
Upper hose is AN fitting lower is hose
180 thermostat
FMS water pump

I will attach pictures as well. maybe some one can spot something that wrong, im just frustrated with this thing.

 

[cardudeusa]

Is it just me or is that upper hose too small especially where it bends?

 

[S&B]

this is the kind of thing im looking for, I always thought it was tight but its like gotta be about a 1/2 inch

 

[LiquidGT]

I was looking at those fittings too.

I might provide adequate flow at idle, but at speed it could be a restriction.

 

[S&B]

the guy that put them on there builds turbo stangs, so you would think he knew what he was doing, i dunno

 

[S&B]

looks like she's going to the HP shop for them to figure out, I really dont like the notch anymore, I have never had 1 month of the car running great ever in all 4 years of ownership. Ill just pay another 1500 bucks into the pot. Maybe ill just moth ball the car in the garage.

very frustrating working on this piece of c hit

 

[justagt]

small things

What ratio of coolant to water do you use?

Have you ever replaced the radiator cap?

 

[myslo50]

have the rad cap tested

 

[1991vert]

have you "burped" the system? there could be air in there. remove the cap with the engine running while doing small revs (up to 1300rpm'ish). i've also heard of something called "hot spots" in the cylinder heads.

 

[S&B]

well i did burp the system it had a tiny bit of air, coolant flows through the radiaor at all times, but when the therm opens it really flows, and fans are on, the car just will not stop overheating at idle, and when driving, it just keep s climbing

 

[1991vert]

i'd ditch the AN hose. with the restriction, it could be causing the coolant to sit in the block too long and it's constantly trying to cool it down, but to no avail. the longer it sits there and gets backed up, the hotter it will get and less chance to cool.

what was wrong with the tube that came with the blower?

 

[S&B]

When i had the car built they did that to the radiator so it would look cleaner, it did work before I pulled the engine out. I would probably have to buy a new radiator b/c the neck was tig welded on there.

Maybe Ill just try to buy a new radiator, is there any decent ones out there that wont cost me an arm and a leg?

 

[1991vert]

When i had the car built they did that to the radiator so it would look cleaner, it did work before I pulled the engine out. I would probably have to buy a new radiator b/c the neck was tig welded on there.

Maybe Ill just try to buy a new radiator, is there any decent ones out there that wont cost me an arm and a leg?

it's odd that it worked before any doesn't work now...i wouldn't go throwing money at it just yet

what was done to the engine? change cylinder heads by any chance?

 

[HISSIN50]

I also don't think the AN situation is the problem, esp if the car cooled ok before (with the same set-up).

Have you pulled the serp belt off and spun the water pump by hand? I'd do this to see if you hear or feel anything wonky (in case the input shaft came loose)

Have you pressure tested the system?

 

[Maryland Stang]

Pull the t-stat out and drill a 1/8" hole in the flange and then reinstall it with the hole up. I had the same problem with mine. It worked fine before the H/C/I and then overheated afterwards. All of my cooling system parts were the same ones I had before. I drilled a 1/4" hole in mine and now it has a little trouble coming up to normal temp.

 

[S&B]

I already have a hole driller in there, but its tiny Ill pull it out and widen it to 1/8th, when I burped the car you could see that the water was flowing, and like i said when it hit 180 then the radiator was really flowing where as the top row of cooling was spraying out of the filler neck almost, so im pretty sure its flowing right, I also used a temp probe to verify the temp , it was dead on.
I will try to burp it again and widen my therm hole this afternoon thanks

 

[Trbofox]

Did they have the fan off the car? The fan is pointing in the correct direction?

 

[S&B]

it's odd that it worked before any doesn't work now...i wouldn't go throwing money at it just yet

what was done to the engine? change cylinder heads by any chance?

no, I snapped the crank, so when they took the engine appart they noticed that 1 or 2 cyliders showed a tiny bit of detonation so while it was out I just replaced the rotating assembly so It wouldn't cause problems later. But everything else is the same heads, cam, radiator, (minus pushing fan)

I mean when you put your hand near the front of the car you can feel the air being sucked in its so powerful. its turned on by the DCC controler

 

[67coupe]

If the temp is able to come down at idle (even if slowly), then you don't have fan capacity issue. Since it's overheating while driving, you have a rad capacity or water flow issue. I highly doubt its the rad, unless it has some build up on the cores (which would reduce heat conduction).

I'm with the others, I don't like the upper radiator hose (from a water flow standpoint). That being said, the previous setup had no cooling issues.

You said this is a new motor? So that's fresh machining...bores, rings, etc. A new engine will run hotter than normal for the first few hundred miles. When I had the motor in the 67 rebuilt, it ran around 220 - 225 for the first 200 - 300 miles. This was a mild 302 with a radiator that came on the 390 mustangs.

How many miles since the rebuild?

Also, I did measure the clearance btw my Edelbrock (no spacer) and the heat extractor hood. 1.5 inches

 

[S&B]

thanks,

No the engine maybe has 20 miles on it, Im worried about over heating, how hot is too hot to drive? can I drive the car around when its 230? what is the point where I should pull over and let it cool.
To get rid of the upper AN hose I Will have to bring it in and get it re tig welded or buy a new one, What confuses me is that the guy who put that on has it on many many cars so I just cant see how it would restrict anything. The coolant literaly shoots out of the fins, maybe Ill post it for you this afternoon.

do you think I should add water wetter?