1990Coupe
Founding Member
Overheating situation need a Wise person
- Thread starter S&B
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Yes the car heats right up with the radiotor cap off, the water pump is new well 1000 miles on it.
ugg I dont know, I might just moth ball this thing, there is just no real good reason. i guess Ill have to dig into it at some point, but I dont want to take everything appart its such a bitvch
67coupe
Founding Member
Just take a step back and relax a little.
It was fine before the rebuild. So, it's running hot now because of the rebuild itself (tight engine) or something was done incorrectly during the rebuild.
How old is the rad cap? Since your upper hose is not rubber, would it be possible to squeeze the lower hose when the car is at full temp? You should feel quite a bit of pressure. If not, you need a new rad cap.
How fast are you going when the is at 220? I still think 220 is okay, as long as you do not get into boost.
How many miles are now on the engine?
strtrcr50
New Member
yogibear357
Member
Yeah taking apart is a pain. When you run it with the cap off does it get hotter than 220?
Does the water surge up and down alot and is there air bubbles
There is way you can check with out taking the head off to check if the gaskets are on backwards. If you have the old set laying around there are number on them they stick out pass the heads. Look and see how they go and if are the same you are good with that problem of being installed up side down
Don't give up you have a nice car it a hot rod they alway have problems
1991vert
10 Year Member
prolly something simple. the lower radiator hose shouldn't be collapsing as, i believe, there's a spring inside those FMS blue ones?
just to start eliminating stuff, replace the cap. it's a cheap start at least...
just to start eliminating stuff, replace the cap. it's a cheap start at least...
do you think that the overflow tank has anything to do with it? its alum and mounte to the fender below the radiator and has a small hole in the top (in case it fills up). going into the bottle i have a copper tube that is in the coolant at the bottom, its alum so I cant see if its full or empy.??
I have cometic H/G's Ill go take a pic of the the tab maybe someone will know.
driver side front ( seems to be in the middle?)
passanger rear
dirt in the coolant? tiny bits, fished them out, this seems pretty normal to me with a fresh engine.
overflow setup
When i have the cap off and run the car it only heats up to 200 ish and levels off
Ill get a new cap tom.
I have cometic H/G's Ill go take a pic of the the tab maybe someone will know.
driver side front ( seems to be in the middle?)
passanger rear
dirt in the coolant? tiny bits, fished them out, this seems pretty normal to me with a fresh engine.
overflow setup
When i have the cap off and run the car it only heats up to 200 ish and levels off
Ill get a new cap tom.
yogibear357
Member
I have not been impressed with those stant caps with the pressure bleed thing. On my Griffin radiator, I purchased a griffin cap and the pring and seal was actually longer than the stant cap that my friend had running on his griffin. He was having cooling issues till i lent him my cap to see if that was the case. Turns out that the stant wouldn't seal on the griffin radiators well enough to keep the pressure...
Kevin
Kevin
Hmmmm ... good point. I'm having cooling problems with my '84, as well, and it came with one of those pressure-release-lever radiator caps someone put on it. Before I go buying a whole new radiator, I might give a regular non-lever cap a shot and see if this is my problem, as well.
(Although, FWIW, I've got those kinds of caps on my truck, had one on my '86, and on the '89 notch Frankenstang's got, and never had any issues with stock 2-core or aftermarket 3-core radiators. 
)
LiquidGT
Member
Now that you mention it, I had problems with those pressure releif caps on a AZ brass radiator, I also had problems with a warped radiator cap mounting flange, it couldn't hold the right pressure.
Now I stick to regular stock style caps, and Mr Gasket thermostats suck IMO. I had one it was a 195* but the car ran at 160*. WTF? I found out that most people who have problems with them overheat, so I got "lucky". Great design, but its too bad they're made in China.
I have a Stant Superstat 180, (made in USA), I'm running at 190* now, but next time I'm in the market for a thermo I think I'm going to try a Motorcraft 180*.
Now I stick to regular stock style caps, and Mr Gasket thermostats suck IMO. I had one it was a 195* but the car ran at 160*. WTF? I found out that most people who have problems with them overheat, so I got "lucky". Great design, but its too bad they're made in China.
I have a Stant Superstat 180, (made in USA), I'm running at 190* now, but next time I'm in the market for a thermo I think I'm going to try a Motorcraft 180*.
Stant Superstat 195* for me.
The warped cap mounting flange seems to be a common issue with aftermarket parts-store radiators. Had the same thing on the one I put in Frankenstang's notch, and the one the prior owner put in my truck. Just laid a flat edge over it (used a stiff gasket scraper) to see which way the flange was warped up or down, then I bent it straight with a pair of pliers with minimal force. No leaks at all since then.
The warped cap mounting flange seems to be a common issue with aftermarket parts-store radiators. Had the same thing on the one I put in Frankenstang's notch, and the one the prior owner put in my truck. Just laid a flat edge over it (used a stiff gasket scraper) to see which way the flange was warped up or down, then I bent it straight with a pair of pliers with minimal force. No leaks at all since then.
ok here is the scoop,
I jacked the car up to burp the system, nothing really came out, car leveled off at 201-205. I changed the cap and squeezed the lower hose, there def is some pressure in the system its not rock hard but very tight. Drove the car, every time it goes under load temps climb up to 225-230 then when i let it sit the car will come back down to 215 ish 212, but never back down to the 201-205 where it was at idle after I started it.
any ideas? i think Im out of luck here
I jacked the car up to burp the system, nothing really came out, car leveled off at 201-205. I changed the cap and squeezed the lower hose, there def is some pressure in the system its not rock hard but very tight. Drove the car, every time it goes under load temps climb up to 225-230 then when i let it sit the car will come back down to 215 ish 212, but never back down to the 201-205 where it was at idle after I started it.
any ideas? i think Im out of luck here
I think your radiator is a Northern... Doesn't look like a griffin to me. I have also had bad luck with the MR. Gasket tstats. I bought a BeCool and it seems to be up to the task thus far. Usually after a bit of spirited driving, my upper radiator hose is rock hard. You may want to borrow a pressure checker. It is basically a pump that will pressurize the cooling system. You may be loosing coolant somewhere, at the least pressure. For every 1 lb. of pressure in the cooling system, it will raise the boiling point of water 3 degrees. So for a 15 lbs cooling system it will make the boiling point about 257.
Kevin
Kevin
LiquidGT
Member
+1 You can 'rent' a cooling system pressure tester from a parts store. Pump it up and let it sit for a while, if it holds 15-16 psi then your good.
LiquidGT
Member
67coupe
Founding Member
1991vert
10 Year Member
drain out the fluid and drop a few m-80's in there. show it who's boss. repeat until conditions improve.
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