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Overheating situation need a Wise person

  • Thread starter Thread starter S&B
  • Start date Start date Jul 25, 2008
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gt90stang

New Member
Dec 7, 2002
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Jul 31, 2008
#61
  • Jul 31, 2008
  • #61
Things to check

From my heat problems I found the following:

1. Check for the plastic dam at the bottom of the radiator (can effect the idling temp)

2. You need to ensure that the space above and on the sides of the radiator are blocked like the stock setup which had rubberized flaps and a shroud that acted as an air dam. The air from the engine compartment can be pulled around all the openings (this is called recursion because the hot air from the radiator is recirculated back in front of the radiator). To test this you can get some pipe insulation from a hardware store, it will last a week or so but can't stand up to the high temps long term.

3. How many CFM is your fan? My Mark VIII and Ron Davis 18 fins per inch radiator only allows me to run my AC in up to 100*F ambient above that the temps start climbing above set point.

Number 2 above improved my cooling capabilities by 20* F ambient.

Good Luck, Don
 

2000xp8

SN Certified Technician
Aug 8, 2003
8,024
1,616
194
NJ
Jul 31, 2008
#62
  • Jul 31, 2008
  • #62
S&B said:
Where do I rent one VAto zone?
Click to expand...

Don't rent one, buy one.
It's one of those things that if you are a car guy, you might as well have.

I got a mac tools one, on ebay for like $50
 

S&B

I hate my CT. :(
10 Year Member
Dec 18, 2005
1,634
695
204
Cheesehead
Aug 1, 2008
#63
  • Aug 1, 2008
  • #63
gt90stang said:
From my heat problems I found the following:

1. Check for the plastic dam at the bottom of the radiator (can effect the idling temp)

2. You need to ensure that the space above and on the sides of the radiator are blocked like the stock setup which had rubberized flaps and a shroud that acted as an air dam. The air from the engine compartment can be pulled around all the openings (this is called recursion because the hot air from the radiator is recirculated back in front of the radiator). To test this you can get some pipe insulation from a hardware store, it will last a week or so but can't stand up to the high temps long term.

3. How many CFM is your fan? My Mark VIII and Ron Davis 18 fins per inch radiator only allows me to run my AC in up to 100*F ambient above that the temps start climbing above set point.

Number 2 above improved my cooling capabilities by 20* F ambient.

Good Luck, Don
Click to expand...

Thanks don,

I did remove the flaps from the sides of the radiator, and If it was overheating at idle I would try this, but because it heats up when I drive it im not sure this is the issue, I do have 5.0 fan from a 1995 and a 14" pusher fan as well.

thanks XP ill just buy that tool your right, I buy everything else why would I rent something.
you know

IF it FLIEs, Floats, Or Fawks RENT IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

Maryland Stang

Active Member
Aug 21, 2002
1,656
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Greenville, NC
Aug 1, 2008
#64
  • Aug 1, 2008
  • #64
S&B said:
I did remove the flaps from the sides of the radiator, and If it was overheating at idle I would try this, but because it heats up when I drive it im not sure this is the issue,
Click to expand...

The flaps only help when the vehicle is moving, not at idle. At idle is when the fan(s) do all of the cooling. At speed you should be able to cool without any fans if everything is installed. The front of Mustangs only allow just barely enough air in to cool the engine (less so on a GT) and the removal of any air dams or flaps diminishes their ability to cool. The radiator should is the critical piece when a vehicle is not moving.

If we were closer I would let you borrow my stock radiator, shroud and fan just to see if it would cool if everything is installed correctly.
 
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