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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
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pass emissions withought smog

  • Thread starter Thread starter BlackPearl955.0
  • Start date Start date Dec 11, 2007

BlackPearl955.0

New Member
Jun 8, 2007
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Blashyrkh, Wisconsin
Dec 11, 2007
#1
  • Dec 11, 2007
  • #1
Is it possible to pass a non visual emissions without a smog pump? I know it is different in other states but has anyone here passed without one?
thanks
 

jtfairlane

New Member
Mar 5, 2006
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Dec 11, 2007
#2
  • Dec 11, 2007
  • #2
Possible? I suppose. But then again it's also possible I could win the lottery and have a bus full of playboy bunnies come up to me on the street and ask if I would like to be their permanent oil boy......

Likely? No. You need the smog pump to provide fresh air to the catalytic converters in order for the converters to operate properly. Without properly operating catalytic converters, you'll be in bad shape on the sniffer. If you don't have converters anymore, than this is all a moot point and you certainly will not pass.
 

dmeads311

New Member
Nov 2, 2005
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Dec 11, 2007
#3
  • Dec 11, 2007
  • #3
where i live most of the shops dont even open up the hood and we dont have the sniffer test for emissions.. im about to install a smog pump delete kit but i dont have cats anyway and i pass. it all depends who does the inspection and where you live
 

87foxstang

Member
May 10, 2007
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16
Cromwell, CT
Dec 11, 2007
#4
  • Dec 11, 2007
  • #4
I passed with no smog hooked up, and i passed EASILY. I just had a good set of cats. They looked under the hood, but i had the pump, it just wasnt hooked up. Youll be fine
 

jrichker

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Dublin GA
Dec 12, 2007
#5
  • Dec 12, 2007
  • #5
Some review of how it works...

The Thermactor air pump (smog pump) supplies air to the heads or catalytic converters. This air helps break down the excess HC (hydrocarbons) and CO (carbon monoxide). The air supplied to the catalytic converters helps create the catalytic reaction that changes the HC & CO into CO2 and water vapor. Catalytic converters on 5.0 Mustangs are designed to use the extra air provided by the smog pump. Without the extra air, the catalytic converters will clog and fail.

The Thermactor air pump draws air from an inlet filter in the front of the pump. The smog pump puts air into the heads when the engine is cold and then into the catalytic converters when it is warm. The Thermactor control valves serve to direct the flow. The first valve, TAB (Thermactor Air Bypass) or AM1 valve) either dumps air to the atmosphere or passes it on to the second valve. The second valve, TAD (Thermactor Air Diverter valve or AM2 valve) directs it to the heads or the catalytic converters. Check valves located after the TAB & TAD solenoids prevent hot exhaust gases from damaging the control valves or pump in case of a backfire. The air serves to help consume any unburned hydrocarbons by supplying extra oxygen to the catalytic process. The computer tells the Thermactor Air System to open the dump valve at WOT (wide open throttle) minimizing engine drag. The dump valve reduces the parasitic drag caused by the smog pump to about 2-4 HP at WOT.






Computer operation & control for the Thermactor Air System
Automobile computers use current sink technology. They do not source power to any relay, solenoid or actuator like the IAC, fuel pump relay, or fuel injectors. Instead the computer provides a ground path for the positive battery voltage to get back to the battery negative terminal. That flow of power from positive to negative is what provides the energy to make the IAC, fuel pump relay, or fuel injectors work. No ground provided by the computer, then the actuators and relays don't operate.

One side of the any relay/actuator/solenoid in the engine compartment will be connected to a red wire that has 12-14 volts anytime the ignition switch is in the run position. The other side will have 12-14 volts when the relay/actuator/solenoid isn't turned on. Once the computer turns on the clamp side, the voltage on the computer side of the wire will drop down to 1 volt or less.

In order to test the TAD/TAB solenoids, you need to ground the white/red wire on the TAB solenoid or the light green/black wire on the TAD solenoid.

For 94-95 cars: the colors are different. The White/Red wire (TAB control) is White/Orange (Pin 31 on the PCM). The Green/Black wire (TAD control) should be Brown (pin 34 at the PCM). Thanks to HISSIN50 for this tip.

To test the computer, you can use a test light across the TAB or TAD wiring connectors and dump the codes. When you dump the codes, the computer does a self test that toggles every relay/actuator/solenoid on and off. When this happens, the test light will flicker.
 
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