Electrical Passenger window does not work

[red5.0fox]

Hey guys. I’ve got a 1992 LX. A while ago, I got into an accident and replaced my interior driver door with an OEM 1989 door. Since then, my passenger window hasn’t worked. Replaced the motors today, and it still doesn’t work. When I hit the up button on the passenger door, I can hear it engage, and I see the battery gauge dip down. However, that does not happen with the driver master switch. Neither buttons make a difference when you hit “down”. The harness on the driver door is different than the oem 1992 harness I had. Could this be the reason why it doesn’t work?

 

[Noobz347]

Are you familiar with how to use a multimeter?

If so, disconnect the offending window motor and have a friend help you test for power [Up/Down] through both switches to that motor. You may discover a "miswire" and have to change some pins around.

Once you are certain that this is correct, test the window motors [Up/Down] by running yourself a set of test leads, directly to the motor.


This should narrow it down in a hurry.

Do not be afraid to rip old wiring out of that replaced door and install your own. It's a simple matter really. Solder your connections, coat them in dielectric grease, and cover them in shrink tube.

There are also crimp connectors that exist that you solder after crimping.
(Requires Heat Tool - I use a Torch Lighter)

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[red5.0fox]

Are you familiar with how to use a multimeter?

If so, disconnect the offending window motor and have a friend help you test for power [Up/Down] through both switches to that motor. You may discover a "miswire" and have to change some pins around.

Once you are certain that this is correct, test the window motors [Up/Down] by running yourself a set of test leads, directly to the motor.


This should narrow it down in a hurry.

Do not be afraid to rip old wiring out of that replaced door and install your own. It's a simple matter really. Solder your connections, coat them in dielectric grease, and cover them in shrink tube.

There are also crimp connectors that exist that you solder after crimping.
(Requires Heat Tool)

Wirefy Solder Seal Wire Connectors | IP67 Waterproof Butt Connectors

High quality Solder Seal Wire Connector kits for a wide range electrical applications. Use in marine, automotive and home electrical wiring. Wirefy offers a large assortment of solder seal wire connectors at a very affordable price. Get your solder seal electrical connectors today!

wirefyshop.com

Yes I’ve got experience using one as long as I know where to put it to get the readings.

Would you mean cutting the wires at the window switches and splicing in the switches from the original door? I would think that if it being the wrong switch and wiring is the problem I would have to essentially remove all of the wires for the switch and replace the whole thing to where it connects in the car, but maybe I’m wrong. I’ll test the wires and such nice chance I get.

 

[red5.0fox]

Yes I’ve got experience using one as long as I know where to put it to get the readings.

Would you mean cutting the wires at the window switches and splicing in the switches from the original door? I would think that if it being the wrong switch and wiring is the problem I would have to essentially remove all of the wires for the switch and replace the whole thing to where it connects in the car, but maybe I’m wrong. I’ll test the wires and such nice chance I get.

For reference, the harness in the door right now has 2 plugs that go to the window switch that you can easily disconnect. The harness for the original door has no plugs, but is wired straight into the switch like the passenger door.

 

[Noobz347]

Yes I’ve got experience using one as long as I know where to put it to get the readings.

Would you mean cutting the wires at the window switches and splicing in the switches from the original door? I would think that if it being the wrong switch and wiring is the problem I would have to essentially remove all of the wires for the switch and replace the whole thing to where it connects in the car, but maybe I’m wrong. I’ll test the wires and such nice chance I get.

Wires are just wires. Even the connectors from one year to the next might be the same but the colors or arrangement has changed.

That's what you need to check for with the multi-meter:

Check for power at the door actuator with the Driver Side switch in the [up] position and to the same for the passenger side, etc..
[Down] position next... If you don't get power at the actuator then you have a wiring problem. Follow the wire in the door, back through the connector and test for power there. If you get power there then you need to ensure that wire is going to the correct connector pin at the window motor. If not, find out what wire [is] getting that power and swap that pin the the correct position.

Follow that same procedure for the [down] power wire and ensure that the ground pin is in the correct location.


I hope I'm explaining this well.

Use the driver side as your example and don't discount the possibility that the switch or switches are bad (you will discover this when you test for power in all positions of the window switch with the meter).

 

[red5.0fox]

Wires are just wires. Even the connectors from one year to the next might be the same but the colors or arrangement has changed.

That's what you need to check for with the multi-meter:

Check for power at the door actuator with the Driver Side switch in the [up] position and to the same for the passenger side, etc..
[Down] position next... If you don't get power at the actuator then you have a wiring problem. Follow the wire in the door, back through the connector and test for power there. If you get power there then you need to ensure that wire is going to the correct connector pin at the window motor. If not, find out what wire [is] getting that power and swap that pin the the correct position.

Follow that same procedure for the [down] power wire and ensure that the ground pin is in the correct location.


I hope I'm explaining this well.

Use the driver side as your example and don't discount the possibility that the switch or switches are bad (you will discover this when you test for power in all positions of the window switch with the meter).

Think I got it, wiring confuses me even though I took a whole class on it haha. You’re saying the door actuator, you’re not referring to the locking actuators are you? Those do work just fine, unless you’re just referring to the window motors.

 

[Noobz347]

Think I got it, wiring confuses me even though I took a whole class on it haha. You’re saying the door actuator, you’re not referring to the locking actuators are you? Those do work just fine, unless you’re just referring to the window motors.

Yeah, I might have flip-flopped actuator with motor as I typed but the same theory applies to either.

 

[AeroCoupe]

By "interior driver door" what do you mean? Is the door the same and you used an door panel from an 89 or is the door itself an 89 with an 89 door panel? If the latter then just pull the harness out of the old door and swap the on in the 89 out with that.

 

[red5.0fox]

By "interior driver door" what do you mean? Is the door the same and you used a door panel from an 89 or is the door itself an 89 with an 89 door panel? If the latter then just pull the harness out of the old door and swap the on in the 89 out with that.

Sorry for the late response. The door is from an 1989. I replaced it because I got into an accident. I would replace the harness, but wouldn’t that involve taking the door back off? I tried figuring it out, but getting to all the connections in the kickpanel, and maneuvering those through the door while it’s on the car seemed like a real PITA. I know it will be either way, but if you guys have a way of doing it relatively simply, let me know.

 

[red5.0fox]

I’ll take some pictures of the wiring harnesses when I get a chance for reference.

Is the drivers side the “master” switch for the windows? AKA, if the drivers side switch doesn’t work, the passenger window won’t work? I know on some vehicles the setup runs through one side and if it stops working, the other side won’t work.

 

[General karthief]

I've swapped a few door wire harnesses, PITA either way, wear long sleeves, those door edges are ruff on skin.

 

[red5.0fox]

I did some tests using Tmoss’s wiring diagram. Here’s what I found. Seems the red/black wire is my issue, but I have good continuity. Where should I start?

 

[red5.0fox]

Anyone have any ideas? I’m kinda lost on this and I need my window to work lol

 

[General karthief]

Hit the red/black wire with 12v and see if the window works
I'm thinking switch

 

[red5.0fox]

Hit the red/black wire with 12v and see if the window works
I'm thinking switch

That’s what I was thinking. Thankfully, I had my other harness ready with extra switches. I swapped the master passenger window switch and nothing happened.. which switch would be causing the problem? I’ll do the 12v though.

 

[General karthief]

Do the same on the drivers side

 

[red5.0fox]

Do the same on the drivers side

Tested a bunch of switches on both the drivers side and passenger side slots. Nothing.

Something I’ve noticed.. on the passenger side, when you hit the up switch, the motor clicks signifying that it’s getting power. If you hit the up switch on the drivers side for the passenger window, the motor does not click. Could that narrow it down?

 

[General karthief]

Did you do the test in post #14?

 

[red5.0fox]

Did you do the test in post #14?

Not yet. I was thinking about getting a power probe, but I decided against it. What do I need, and where do I put 12 volts to? I don’t have the door panel off, I just have the arm rests off so I can mess with the switches

 

[General karthief]

This is what I would do; (i'm not very good at wiring) find the down wire on the plug for the switch, apply 12v, window goes down, that works.
Find up wire, apply 12v window goes up, motor is good.
With test light make sure you have 12v coming into the switch pad.