PCV Trouble.. Getting Oil In TB and Intake!!!

I agree. Everything you say is right. I was telling about things I have tried. Here is the set up right now on the car. Everything is stock but the three PCVs. There is no "fresh air" restriction from the TB. It was something I had tried that didn't work.

I agree with the diagram 100% also.

The car was sucking a WHOLE lot of air through the Tb /vc tube. From the TB to the VC. So much in fact that it was sucking oil into the upper manifold and it was pooling in there. When disconnection the tube on the bottom of the upper intake, oil would run out for a long time. Probably at least six ounces.

When you launch the car and get in the high RPMs for a while, there is a lot of blowby built up, when you let off the gas after a run, that's when manifold pressure is the highest, at least that's what my guage reads at that point. I'll hit about 22Hg decelerating. At that point the PCV is open and doing it's thing.

If my set up works at idle at 16 Hg, then it's probably going to work at 22 Hg after letting off the gas. While the car is floored, nothing is sucking the air out. Blowby is there though, trying to get out. On the race cars you put 1/2 to 1 inch tubes connected from the valve covers to the collectors to overcome this problem at wide open throttle.

In this setup, the blowby might just go from the VC to the TB, if it has time too before the 22 Hg starts pulling it out the PCV. The oil getting into the intake doesn't start to happen until you run it and then let off. I have watched it through a glass gas filter way too much as seen it do this. The harder you are running it when you let off, the more oil there will be when you check the PCV tube. The problem is the blowby stirring the oil up, and there is blowby in this engine. The oil stick been blown out though...lol

I think I see what you are saying about restriction the airflow, but it's not restricting the air flow enough to cause problems. When the manifold pressure drops to zero, we just have to wait and see how much builds up and where it might go. Probably a little oil will get in the TB. Then its a good idea to install a little filter light was discussed earlier.

Think of a Vortech superchrger. You don't route the tb line to the tb anymore, or you would have a pressurized engine. The line is run to the K&N airfilter houseing with a fliter on the end of it that attached to the housing. You block off the TB with a cap. This is my car too. It will blow oil out the VC line when the PCV is installed correctly, but blugged up. I notice oil, I take another PCV off the shelf. I have about 10.5.1 compression with file fit rings. IT's probably around 425 hp on the dyno. I run it all the time at the track with no problems. This car doesn't have but 12Hg at the max at idle. THe idle on this one moves arouns a lot with the cam, but is suck the same amount of air through the tb tube as the other car does.

Both the TB tube are sucking the same at idle all the way up to 6000 RPM. I testes it with both cars runing with both my hands at the same time. I was thinking that my little system would fall down, but it did the same. I did the same thing with my brother's stock '92. I got the same results.

I do not believe I am resrticing the removel of Crakcase gas with this setup. I did at one time, so I change it to a one pcv set up. There was no differece that I could tell. Then I put in two PCVa. That stopped the oil comsuption, but ther was oil residu up past the second PCV, not much......buy I put another one on ther anyway.

THe only thing restricting the airfow if the actual parts of the PCVs They all open and close a nearly same time. It's just the oil gets cut off and caught beteewn the fitst two PCVs. it has the same Manifold pressure anywhere along the 3 PCV line. The pcv just block the oil great. Manifold pressure does drop the closer you get to the first PCV.

I spent a lot of time last year on my girlfriend car, it took a while to get it running right. She is pickey about her car, so I had to make it run smooth. \

I have tried to keep my thought on track this time, I'll check this out in the morning and maybe we will be on the same page! I think we are going to the right dirction to get this figured out for everyone.

Then the decisions can be made as to what to do. JUst try it my way first and then inprove on it. That would be cool!

This is great, I haven't ever had a topic pop up a year later out of nowhere to talk about again. I was tryng to post some pictures, I might work on that for a while

Thanks
Jim
s

Somebody just go out by some hose, clamps and tubing and then get back on here and tell me what you find.
 
i know i am coming in late in the game, but i have few questions if anyone still cares.

1. are most of you running with the smog/air pump bypassed
2. would this pcv problem cause the rear main seal to go or at least blow oil by a good sea.
==
I am on fox body no. 2 with mods , no smog pump, head work etc both have leaked at rear main seal.
I have heard that removing smog system may contribute to seal leak.
I actually replaced the rear main on my coupe, but it was still leaking. I assumed it was coming from the intake at that point, but then i sold it and never found out for sure.
I purchased a 93 cobra with some mods mentioned above and am having a similar prob.
this time i would like to get i figured out
symptoms: leaking oil, apparently form rear seal, light smoke, seems like when i let of throttle rather than on full throttle. any thoughts, anyone think it could be pcv related like you guys have been talking about. OH yeah almost forgot. Low oil light! please help
 
blackcloud50 said:
This is how pcv works and how crankcase is ventilated during different driving conditions.

I just want to point out that this pic is for a carb application. There are some differences compared to our efi setups.

Also, this diagram does not acknowledge any transitional periods.
Like when you snap the throttle blade to full shut, after a wot redline run.

At wot and high rpm there is a large amount of air flowing through the intake tube, between the air filter and the TB. Under this condition large volumes of air are flowing at a very high rate.
At the same time you have high levels of crankcase pressure, and there is nearly 0" of vac in the intake.
In this situation all is well, as the system can balance, and purge all crankcase pressure as illustrated in the digram.

However, there is a momentary condition that will cause problems if the pcv line has a restriction.

Once the throttle blade is snapped shut (whether for a shift or because the run is over).
As air is rushing through the TB (with the throttle blade at wide open) crankcase gasses are able to vent here. At the instance the TB is snapped shut, all of the air between the air filter and the TB will get backed up at the closed plate. This causes a momentary high pressure condition just before the TB.
It is the inertia of the air as it is flowing through the intake tube that causes this build up of pressure. This is not such a concern in the carb pcv application in the above pic, as there is no intake tube. Carb applications are better able to deal with flow reversion when the Throttle is snapped shut because of the proximity of the air filter to the throttle plates.

For a very short period, you will have high pressure at the TB/VC hose, high pressure in the crankcase, and very little vac in the intake (as it is still building up). With all high pressure areas there is inadequate venting of crankcase gasses and pressures.
This is when crankcase seals, lower intake manifold seals, and valve seals start to leak. You may also find that your oil dipstick will get pushed up from its tube.

The solution is not to limit airflow capabilities, but rather to increase the mass of air that can flow from the crankcase, WHILE reducing the velocity of the crankcase gasses as they flow from the crankcase. The reduction of velocity will allow the heavier oil molecules to settle out.

If requested I could sketch up a few pictures of what I am talking about and scan them in. Just ask.

jason
 
funkytrunk92 said:
i'm askin:D
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still wondering if the smog pump removal and some of the tb hoses that were involved being plugged have anything to do with excessive pressure. If so, how do I make it right.

thanks

The smog pump will not affect crankcase pressure, so you are ok there.

I am not sure what hoses you are talking about. The only 2 that will have an impact on the pcv system are the PCV hose and the hose running from the Throttle Body to the Valve Cover.
Make sure that both of these are in place.

Also, if you suspect the crankcase is not venting sufficiently, then be sure to replace the screen below the pcv in the lower intake.

jason

:OT:
I can't do the skcethes today as I have to work on BOTH of the cars in my sig.
It may take a day to get to it.
 
ok................changed the pcv, changed the screen, all hoses in tact
took for test drive...........car is still leaking from front somewhere and what appears to be rear main seal.

here is my issue....

Do i go and get a mechanic to put it on a lift and have it inspected, if seals are bad replace them....or if i get the crankcase pressure deal under control, will it possibly stop leaks.

i would hate to go changin seals, only to have them blow again..
any thouhts or suggestions
 
funkytrunk92 said:
one more thing,when i put my hand over the oil fller hole, it is blowing out, someone told me this might be sign of bad rings. Any thoughts

To find exactly where the leaks are you can pick up a can of engine degreaser from your favorite parts strore, follow the instructions on the can, and you will only need a hose to rinse it off. Watch out for electircal stuff.
This will clean away all the grime that has accumulated around the leaks. Then you can drive the car a little and keep checking for the location of the leaks.

Pressure venting from the dipstick would be a sign of worn rings. I am assuming you did this check with the car at idle?
A compression test will tell you a little bit, but you may also want to perform a leakdown test.
If you don't want to perform these tests most shops will be able to do it for you.

Good luck
jason
 
yeah i was kind of afraid of that. A friend of mine that knows quite a bit about engines told me the same thing. I guess I was just hoping for some better news. Well, off I go to get a compression tester. Any tips on doing a leakdown test, apparently auto zone does not rent out leak test guages. I'll let you know the result of the compression test. I've pretty much resolved myself to pulling the motor and replacing the rings. The motor was made a 306, so it may have had cheap rings or something like that in its past life. Any suggestions on brands of rings, any other operations I should do while i've got it apart, etc...........Thanks:shrug:
 
funkytrunk92 said:
yeah i was kind of afraid of that. A friend of mine that knows quite a bit about engines told me the same thing. I guess I was just hoping for some better news. Well, off I go to get a compression tester. Any tips on doing a leakdown test, apparently auto zone does not rent out leak test guages. I'll let you know the result of the compression test. I've pretty much resolved myself to pulling the motor and replacing the rings. The motor was made a 306, so it may have had cheap rings or something like that in its past life. Any suggestions on brands of rings, any other operations I should do while i've got it apart, etc...........Thanks:shrug:

I do have a thought on the leakdown test.
Perform the test at about 100psi (or whatever your compressor will do). Then I suggest doing a lower pressure test at around 25-30psi. This should not be enough pressure to push the piston to BDC.
I just found that I have some scoring in mid stroke of the bore. I get good leakdown numbers at the bottom, but nearly full leakdown in the mid stroke range.

I feel your pain.
my 408w has to be rebuilt now.

jason
 
funkytrunk92 said:
i'm askin:D
---
thanks

I think this shows what I am trying to say.

Throttle%20Body%20Reversion.jpg
 
I came up with something that fixed my problem 100% , its simple all you need is a 3inch piece of hose with a washer inside of it. Attached the hose to where the pcv valve would normally go and then plug the pcv valve in the top of the hose which will be sitting straight up. The washer stops any oil from crawling up the sides and none gets through the middle and the pcv valve.
 
has anyone else tried this hose and washer method? i have a rear main seal leak as well. smog pump is capped off too. was thinking of doing the 3 inch tube if it works for the pcv valve.
 
This was a major headache for me.My mechanic reverse flowed the tubing so that the air (with the oil) goes into the valve cover instead of the intake.Supposedly Chevy's commonly use this approach.Never had a problem since.The little oil catcher has been bone dry ever since.I don't have to add any oil between oil changes.
 
Topdowncruise said:
This was a major headache for me.My mechanic reverse flowed the tubing so that the air (with the oil) goes into the valve cover instead of the intake.Supposedly Chevy's commonly use this approach.Never had a problem since.The little oil catcher has been bone dry ever since.I don't have to add any oil between oil changes.

Can you elaborate?
I don't fully understand what your setup is?
It sounds like gasses are being vented from the crankcase (via pcv) and into the valve cover?
If I have that right this is not good, but I think I misunderstood.

jason