Picking up a 67 Coupe w/351W

Ares67Coupe

New Member
Jun 16, 2004
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Nor Cal
I am going to look at a 1967 Ford Mustang Coupe this sunday and I was curious as to what to look for on the car. The ad says it comes with the following. This is basically copied and pasted with a few corrections for spelling errors. Couple of questions as I don't know a whole lot about classic mustangs. I have always wanted one and never had have had the chance to buy one or pick one up and now I do. So here we go. I do know about checking for rust etc as I do also own a 1971 Datsun 240Z.

What should I look for? How much power can I expect this car to be making? Gas mileage? How tough is the 8-inch rear end? Etc...

Thank you guys in advance,

Chris

Crane cams, Crane valve springs, Head work and Rebuild, Edelbrock Intake, Holley 4bbl, Hedman Headers, Chrome Oil Pan and Dipstick, new distributor core, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, Accel coil.
New complete upper and lower control arms, idler arm bushings, strut rod bushings, pedal assembly bushings, shifter linkage bushings and clips, traction bars. 4 wheel drum brakes work well, chrome Monte Carlo bar.
brand new 2.5 pipe to chrome tips, has new flowtech warlock mufflers which come with built in exhaust cut outs, I have made custom turn downs for when caps are open.
Tranmission is a rebuilt 4-speed T-10 with a Hurst competion shifter
The suspension in the front has been rebuilt and the front and rear have been changed to 5 lug with an 8in rear
 
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engine mods are easy. hardstuff is dealig with rust. unless you are well equipped. get a powerful flashlight and look up under the dash at the cowl vents.(circular openings). they rust then leak. when they leak water pools in the driver floorboard. driver floor look under car- rusty floorboards rusty cowls. rear trunk-window seal goes, window leaks. look under rear window inside trunk area, holey? rusty? look at lower rear quarters, follow the water trail. it's all about the benjamins and where you decide to jump in.
 
He did mention that it was originally a 6-cyl in the posting.

Here are some photos. Unfortunetely when I saved the exterior pics they shrunk and got changed to 16-colors. So they look like crap. I'll try to get some more when I go to see the car in person this sunday. I know it is missing some interior pieces which I don't mind at all. This is meant to be more of a project car anyway. How much do you guys think I should offer him?

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Interior pieces are not too hard to come by, but you'll find that they nickel & dime you into quite a bit of cost after awhile.

Your pics didn't work, but if the car is in "good shape," with all the work done to it that you listed, it sounds like a very good deal at that price.

the most common spots for rust will be the front quarters right under the "MUSTANG" letters; the doors anywhere along the bottom edge, but in particular the front corner; the rear quarters all around the fender area and in between the wheel and the bumper; look carefully inside the trunk area for evidence that body panels have been "massaged" to repair accident damage; look inside the trunk lid along the edges, in particular where the "MUSTANG" letters are on the deck lip; also look at the front window pillars where they meet the roof & at the rear pillars where they meet the fender; check all along the edges of the front and rear window glass; see if you can lift up the carpeting in the front footwells to check for rusted-out floor pans; pour several cups-full of water through the cowl vent to see if you get leakage into the driver's and passenger footwells; look up inside the passenger side front fenderwell to see if the batter tray is rusted through; check all the frame rails for damage & rust.

I think those are the major problem areas on classic Rustangs, and you said you know how to check for rust, so you should be fine.
 
J-Scratch said:
also shouldn't the 67' with that power have a 9" rear?

I

It probably should, but since this car was changed from a 6 to and 8, the guy probably just threw the first rear that he found that would bolt in.

From the pictures it doesnt look like any too special of a car. All I could see were the engine and dash though. Anyway, just from what I saw and read, I would say $5300 is high. That is unless that body is very very solid and you live in the rust belt. If you live in the land of plentiful mustangs, keep looking and you will find a better deal. What is your location?
 
The windsor is not going to overpower the 8" rear.

I would caution you to inspect the cowling and the floors carefully. It sounds from the description that he was starting to dump money into the car and then something changed his mind. Make sure it wasn't something he has not disclosed about the car :)

Also pay attention to the shock towers where they mount to the front framerails.

Good Luck! :)
 
I live in Nor Cal (East Bay Area, Antioch, Brentwood) and the car is located in the Bay Area in Fremont. So rust "shouldn't" be a big problem. I say "shouldn't" because you never know the cars previous history. I didn't really plan on immediately paying the amount he is asking, because well you never do. :nice: So I am going to offer him a bit less. He is selling it according to him because he is a Chevy guy and he only bought the car because his Dad sold it to him for next to nothing and just wanted to mess around with some motor work on it to have some fun. As far as I understand it he got bored. Thanks Snail50 and Cobra1 for the rust spots to check on the stang. Thanks to everyone else so far for the advice.

How much do you guys think I should offer if the body is in fairly good condition and rust free? I was thinking $3500 - $4000 to start off with. Although I don't want to go to low and piss the guy off or turn him off to selling the car to me if it is in good condition.
 
what you offer him depends on what you find when you inspect the car. I looked at a 68 coupe, asking price $6K; it was a total POS and the guy was offering it to me for $3K by the time I left.

If it really is "GOOD," why don't you start out at $1K less than what he's asking.

If the car has problems, but you're still interested in it, don't be afraid to really lowball the guy...you might be surprised at how cheap you can get it.

It's hard to recommend a $ figure, because I have no idea what Stangs go for in your area, how badly you want the car, how much you're willing to spend, etc.

Good luck, and keep us posted.