Planning a 5 speed swap. anything special to look for?

ChaseRoads

do I need to lube this area?
Oct 29, 2020
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midwestern america
The plan is to 5 speed swap my 91 at some point. Next winter at the soonest but probably the following one. Not in a rush. The only part I have so far are the pedals. Not looking to do anything crazy high end but would like to eliminate any know weak leaks when I do the swap. Do you guys suggest any parts over others for a slightly better than stock swap?

Is the maximum motorsports cable, quadrant and adjuster still considered the best? For a clutch, I want a lighter pedal. I want something the wife won't mind driving.
 
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I have done the swap many times. I have always used the parts store replacement clutch with great success. If you want a light pedal, that is the way to go. I also use a stock factory cable with a firewall adjuster.
 
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If you are looking for a lighter clutch pedal, you will need to get a clutch with a lighter clutch plate spring set (not the exact technical term) or use a hydraulic throw out bearing kit.
The high power clutch sets will not make your left leg happy during city cruising or picking up the kids, so stick closer to stock style replacements.
 
The parts store brand clutches have worked well for me too. The one thing I recommend is a FORD throw out bearing. The ones that come in the clutch kit are cheap. Also, I recommend getting a Ford clutch fork. The metal of the aftermarket ones aren't as stiff as the Ford ones. They can spread out or flex and ride the TOB wrong. Maximum is still one of the best suppliers out there. The best is OEM if you can find one. The dealership was still carrying them about 8 years ago. No idea if they still stock them.
 
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i finished putting together my parts list for swapping out the AOD to t5.. here is what I came up with

AOD TO T5 PARTS

  • REBUILT T5 WITH STAINLESS STEEL RETAINER
  • NEW CENTERFORCE DUAL CLUTCH AND PRESSURE PLATE
  • NEW FRPP SFI FLYWHEEL
  • CLUTCH FORK
  • NEW CLUTCH FORK INSPECTION COVER
  • NEW FRPP THROW OUT BEARING
  • T5 BELLHOUSING
  • NEW T5 BELLHOUSING BALL
  • NEW FRPP PILOT BEARING
  • T5 ENGINE PLATE
  • T5 TRANSMISSION DOUBLE HUMP CROSS MEMBER
  • NEW POLY CROSS MEMBER BUSHINGS
  • NEW POLY TRANS MOUNT BUSHING
  • NEW RON FRANCIS NSS AOD TO T5 JUMPER CABLE FOR TRANS HARNESS
  • FOX BODY 1989 5 SPEED PEDAL ASSEMBLY
  • NEW BRAKE AND CLUTCH PEDAL PADS
  • NEW STEEDA ADJUSTABLE CLUTCH CABLE
  • CLUTCH FIREWALL ADJUSTER
  • STEEDA TRIAX SHIFTER AND HANDLE
  • NEW T5 SHIFTER HUMP FOR FLOORPAN
  • NEW T5 SHIFTER RUBBER BOOT FOR HUMP
  • NEW T5 SHIFTER BEZEL
  • NEW T5 SHIFTER LEATHER BOOT
  • NEW ARP FLYWHEEL BOLTS
  • NEW CLUTCH/ PRESSURE PLATE BOLTS
  • NEW TRANSMISSION TO BELHOUSING BOLTS
  • NEW BELLHOUSING TO ENGINE BOLTS
 
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It's a 2 weekend job for a modest wrench turner. That's without cleaning everything and restoring as you go. That's stuff can really stretch it out.

Don't forget a new ford rear main and a crank repair sleeve. Best to do it while you are there.
 
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If you are swapping the ECU from the auto ECU to the 5-spd ECU, you'll want to swap the transmission harness as well.

Of course it seems nobody has these in stock anymore

The AOD harnesses do not have 2 wires for the NGS on top of the T-5. You can simply run 2 wires for the NGS and tap them into the driver's side kick panel, or find a used 5-spd harness. Not hooking this up might result in a idle surge or hanging idle at times.

You also need to repin the O2 sensor jumper on the harness end. Pretty easy to do. you NEED to do this step.


These are really the only two electrical changes needed when swapping the AOD ecu out for the 5-spd one. IMHO, this step should be done, as idle quality may suffer slightly when using an AOD ecu with the 5-spd. All depends on how picky you are with something like that.
 
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It's a 2 weekend job for a modest wrench turner.
I did the AOD to T5 swap this past summer along with a 5 lug swap in one busy week + 2 weekends. The 5 lug swap included fabricating custom rear caliper mount brackets (about a day and half to do both brackets).

I kept the A9P ECU, I left the clutch pedal switch jumpered (this is done from the factory on an auto car). I used an SN95 trans so it did not have the neutral safety connector on the trans, so just jumpered the wires in my harness in the trans tunnel. One summer of driving and so far no idle or coast down issues.
 
If you are swapping the ECU from the auto ECU to the 5-spd ECU, you'll want to swap the transmission harness as well.

Of course it seems nobody has these in stock anymore

The AOD harnesses do not have 2 wires for the NGS on top of the T-5. You can simply run 2 wires for the NGS and tap them into the driver's side kick panel, or find a used 5-spd harness. Not hooking this up might result in a idle surge or hanging idle at times.

You also need to repin the O2 sensor jumper on the harness end. Pretty easy to do. you NEED to do this step.


These are really the only two electrical changes needed when swapping the AOD ecu out for the 5-spd one. IMHO, this step should be done, as idle quality may suffer slightly when using an AOD ecu with the 5-spd. All depends on how picky you are with something like that.

this look right?
 
If you are swapping the ECU from the auto ECU to the 5-spd ECU, you'll want to swap the transmission harness as well.

Of course it seems nobody has these in stock anymore

The AOD harnesses do not have 2 wires for the NGS on top of the T-5. You can simply run 2 wires for the NGS and tap them into the driver's side kick panel, or find a used 5-spd harness. Not hooking this up might result in a idle surge or hanging idle at times.

You also need to repin the O2 sensor jumper on the harness end. Pretty easy to do. you NEED to do this step.


These are really the only two electrical changes needed when swapping the AOD ecu out for the 5-spd one. IMHO, this step should be done, as idle quality may suffer slightly when using an AOD ecu with the 5-spd. All depends on how picky you are with something like that.

Just to emphasize this right here: You also need to repin the O2 sensor jumper on the harness end. Pretty easy to do. you NEED to do this step.
 
The bigger ones yes. Not sure about the 3 ton ones, but that next size up. 20210628_011600.jpg

This was my car while doing the auto to manual swap. In this pic the front has an okay 3 ton jack stand (can see the top of a big one in lower part of Pic beside blue lid pail). The back is held up in this Pic with a good 3 ton under my sub frame connector near the rear torque box.
 
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Agreed, the bigger ones (5 or 6 ton) either lowest setting or first or second notch. Basically as high as my floor jack will lift when under the rear axle and k member.