Please Drop Some Knowledge On This Proud New Lx Owner. Need Help.

92Apocalypso

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Mar 7, 2017
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I'll try to be brief guys. I've been an avid lover of Fox body mustangs since the late 90s. This week I decided to purchase exactly what I always wanted, a 92 calypso hatch (ok i preferred the coupe). The car has no performance mods outside of a BBK CA I. MAF appears to be stock, and I can assume rest of car is. Car won't pass inspection. Failed horribly for emissions, as well as fuel pressure. The car runs great, sits fine at idle, and I drove it home 45 minutes from seller. where shouLD I turn first?? I was thinking a tune up, plugs and wires to start. Then was thinking would it be wise to maybe upgrade the distributor cap and rotor and maybe MSD ignition? I really don't know where to begin but I need this car on the road, it's been too many years I've been wanting to drive one. Any and all opinions wouLD be very much appreciated! Thanks.
 
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Hammershop

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Mar 2, 2017
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congratulations,,you sound like me,,I couldn't afford a gt back in the day but could now,,not being new was also an issue,,,sounds like the first thing is to get the emissions inspection taken care of,,we don't have that here so I might not be helpful but what I do know is randomly changing parts might make things worse and make a fun hobby into an expensive nightmare,,so far you havent provided enough info,,a tune may or not affect things buts always a good base,,more you need to know what the fuel pressure is and why exactly it " horribly failed emissions" a fuel control issue could be the main source and while not obvious might affect the readings theyre looking at,,anything specific you can add would help
 
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General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
17,439
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polk county florida
As always, run the codes, that is the place to start, well, after a good tune up.
Plugs, wires, cap and rotor, fuel filter and air filter if needed.
Take the negative battery cable off while your do'n the tune up, that will erase any codes and lets you start fresh. Start it up and drive it around for 30 minutes or more to get engine temp up, get it up to at least 45 mph or more for a few miles to give the computer a chance to gather sensor input. Then run the codes.
I'll post the process for running codes.
Dump the codes: Codes may be present even if the Check Engine Light (CEL) isn't on.

Dumping the computer diagnostic codes on 86-95 Mustangs

Revised 26-July-2011. Added need to make sure the clutch is pressed when dumping codes.

Codes may be present even if the check engine light hasn’t come on, so be sure to check for them.

Here's the way to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

Post the codes you get and I will post 86-93 model 5.0 Mustang specific code definitions and fixes. I do not have a complete listing for 94-95 model 5.0 Mustangs at this time.

Be sure to turn off the A/C, and put the transmission in neutral when dumping the codes. On a manual transmission car, be sure to press the clutch to the floor.
Fail to do this and you will generate a code 67 and not be able to dump the Engine Running codes.

underhoodpictures007-01-jpg.560548.jpg


underhoodpictures010-jpg.560549.jpg


If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

attachment-php-attachmentid-58312-stc-1-d-1242744354-20-gif.560550.gif
The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.[/B]

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch itinstead of using a test lamp.

attachment-php-attachmentid-57945-stc-1-d-1240584741-gif.549675.gif


The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.


WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems. This is crucial: the same wire that provides the ground to dump the codes provides signal ground for the TPS, EGR, ACT and Map/Baro sensors. If it fails, you will have poor performance, economy and driveablity problems

Some codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Dumping the Engine Running codes: The procedure is the same, you start the engine with the test jumper in place. Be sure the A/C is off, and clutch (if present) is pressed to the floor, and the transmission is in neutral. You'll get an 11, then a 4 and the engine will speed up to do the EGR test. After the engine speed decreases back to idle, it will dump the engine running codes.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

Your 86-88 5.0 won't have a working Check Engine Light, so you'll need a test light.
See AutoZone Part Number: 25886 , $10
4-jpg.549676.jpg




Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, seeActron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see www.midwayautosupply.com/Equus-Digital-Ford-Code-Reader/dp/B000EW0KHW Equus - Digital Ford Code Reader 3145.
It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $22-$36.
41p3gqvdshl-_ss270_-jpg.549671.jpg
 
Last edited:

Mustang5L5

i'm familiar with penetration
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
33,570
9,850
224
Massachusetts
Step one. Dump codes.

Early obd1 cars are different than modern obd2 as the check engine light doesn't come on with every code. You could have faulty o2 sensors and it will never blink.

So dump codes first
 
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92Apocalypso

Well-Known Member
Mar 7, 2017
217
62
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Thank you guys for your input. I will Def dump codes and see what it reads. Is there a list on the site that has what the codes are? To be clear, should I dump codes, first thing, or do a tune up first? Also forgot to mention that it was running super Rich. I'm not familiar with what test they do on cars this old, so when the dmv employee said it failed the fuel test, I asked wha it was and he said it failed fuel pressure somewhere from the gas tank to whoever he was checking under the hood....
 

92Apocalypso

Well-Known Member
Mar 7, 2017
217
62
58
35

So I ordered this off of ebay for $29 shipped. It came in yesterday. When I first tried it out (car was sitting for 2 days), here is the list of codes I got:
24,21,24,10,96

Then I started the car up to move it out to the garage, and I was under the impression I do a series of tests while it's running, so I tried it, and it didn't do a thing except Rev my engine for me lol. So I shut ithe off for a few minutespecially and tried to it again, engine off, key on.... and this time it gave me this series of codes:
23, 10, 11

Can anyone help out. What did I do right and wrong and which codes do I need to take serious. Thank you in advance!
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
17,439
5,618
193
polk county florida
Dump the codes: Codes may be present even if the Check Engine Light (CEL) isn't on.

Dumping the computer diagnostic codes on 86-95 Mustangs

Revised 26-July-2011. Added need to make sure the clutch is pressed when dumping codes.

Codes may be present even if the check engine light hasn’t come on, so be sure to check for them.

Here's the way to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

Post the codes you get and I will post 86-93 model 5.0 Mustang specific code definitions and fixes. I do not have a complete listing for 94-95 model 5.0 Mustangs at this time.

Be sure to turn off the A/C, and put the transmission in neutral when dumping the codes. On a manual transmission car, be sure to press the clutch to the floor.
Fail to do this and you will generate a code 67 and not be able to dump the Engine Running codes.

underhoodpictures007-01-jpg.560548.jpg


underhoodpictures010-jpg.560549.jpg


If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

attachment-php-attachmentid-58312-stc-1-d-1242744354-20-gif.560550.gif
The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.[/B]

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.

attachment-php-attachmentid-57945-stc-1-d-1240584741-gif.549675.gif


The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.


WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems. This is crucial: the same wire that provides the ground to dump the codes provides signal ground for the TPS, EGR, ACT and Map/Baro sensors. If it fails, you will have poor performance, economy and driveablity problems

Some codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Dumping the Engine Running codes: The procedure is the same, you start the engine with the test jumper in place. Be sure the A/C is off, and clutch (if present) is pressed to the floor, and the transmission is in neutral. You'll get an 11, then a 4 and the engine will speed up to do the EGR test. After the engine speed decreases back to idle, it will dump the engine running codes.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

Your 86-88 5.0 won't have a working Check Engine Light, so you'll need a test light.
See AutoZone Part Number: 25886 , $10
4-jpg.549676.jpg




Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, seeActron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see www.midwayautosupply.com/Equus-Digital-Ford-Code-Reader/dp/B000EW0KHW Equus - Digital Ford Code Reader 3145.
It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $22-$36.
Thanks to jrichker for this, it explains the procedure for the koer, just follow the directions. Post the codes.
 

92Apocalypso

Well-Known Member
Mar 7, 2017
217
62
58
35
Dump the codes: Codes may be present even if the Check Engine Light (CEL) isn't on.

Dumping the computer diagnostic codes on 86-95 Mustangs

Revised 26-July-2011. Added need to make sure the clutch is pressed when dumping codes.

Codes may be present even if the check engine light hasn’t come on, so be sure to check for them.

Here's the way to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

Post the codes you get and I will post 86-93 model 5.0 Mustang specific code definitions and fixes. I do not have a complete listing for 94-95 model 5.0 Mustangs at this time.

Be sure to turn off the A/C, and put the transmission in neutral when dumping the codes. On a manual transmission car, be sure to press the clutch to the floor.
Fail to do this and you will generate a code 67 and not be able to dump the Engine Running codes.

underhoodpictures007-01-jpg.560548.jpg


underhoodpictures010-jpg.560549.jpg


If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

attachment-php-attachmentid-58312-stc-1-d-1242744354-20-gif.560550.gif
The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.[/B]

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.

attachment-php-attachmentid-57945-stc-1-d-1240584741-gif.549675.gif


The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.


WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems. This is crucial: the same wire that provides the ground to dump the codes provides signal ground for the TPS, EGR, ACT and Map/Baro sensors. If it fails, you will have poor performance, economy and driveablity problems

Some codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Dumping the Engine Running codes: The procedure is the same, you start the engine with the test jumper in place. Be sure the A/C is off, and clutch (if present) is pressed to the floor, and the transmission is in neutral. You'll get an 11, then a 4 and the engine will speed up to do the EGR test. After the engine speed decreases back to idle, it will dump the engine running codes.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

Your 86-88 5.0 won't have a working Check Engine Light, so you'll need a test light.
See AutoZone Part Number: 25886 , $10
4-jpg.549676.jpg




Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, seeActron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see www.midwayautosupply.com/Equus-Digital-Ford-Code-Reader/dp/B000EW0KHW Equus - Digital Ford Code Reader 3145.
It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $22-$36.
Thanks to jrichker for this, it explains the procedure for the koer, just follow the directions. Post the codes.

Right, i saw tha posted above. It only really had info for using a jumper. As stated, I bought the code reader, and I listed the codes above..... so what's next
 

92Apocalypso

Well-Known Member
Mar 7, 2017
217
62
58
35
According to the manual that comes with reader, with ignition off, plug in code reader, turn on ignition(do not start engine), turn code reader on, and press test/hold. I did that and it gave me 24,21,24,10,96. After that I turned it off, unplugged it. Then I plugged it all in, turned on, and fired engine up, because I saw it on a YouTube video(albeit, without the reader, they did it with a test light, and it gave me no codes and just revved my motor. So I turned off reader and car, and I moved the car down to my garage and let it sit for a minutes running, as it's been a couple days it hasn't been running. I turned off car and repeat the original process, and that's where I got the last codes this time. 23, 10, 11....
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
17,439
5,618
193
polk county florida
Never used that code reader, I have access to a snapon hidalla wizbang model that tells you what to do.
Run the koeo codes then quickly mat the gas and it will start the koer code procedure, should be in the instructions someplace. Read the dumping engine running codes above.
 

Mustang5L5

i'm familiar with penetration
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
33,570
9,850
224
Massachusetts
Don't turn off car. Dump the codes with engine off, and as soon as you are complete with those, start the engine without turning ignition off.

Codes need to be done in sequence with engine off codes and immediately into the engine running codes. The car will start, idle up for a min or so, then idle drops and codes will blink out.

As soon as codes are done, blip the throttle 50% real quick. That will start cylinder balance test. Car will idle up a tad and turn one one injector at a time. When done, a single code will display
 

92Apocalypso

Well-Known Member
Mar 7, 2017
217
62
58
35
Don't turn off car. Dump the codes with engine off, and as soon as you are complete with those, start the engine without turning ignition off.

Codes need to be done in sequence with engine off codes and immediately into the engine running codes. The car will start, idle up for a min or so, then idle drops and codes will blink out.

As soon as codes are done, blip the throttle 50% real quick. That will start cylinder balance test. Car will idle up a tad and turn one one injector at a time. When done, a single code will display

Ah! Thanks a ton. I will definitely do this tomorrow. To be clear, the first portion of the test I did was correct? Then start up as soon as those in Italy codes are finished and follow your instructions from there? Thanks again
 

Mustang5L5

i'm familiar with penetration
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
33,570
9,850
224
Massachusetts
Ah! Thanks a ton. I will definitely do this tomorrow. To be clear, the first portion of the test I did was correct? Then start up as soon as those in Italy codes are finished and follow your instructions from there? Thanks again


Correct. Turn key to on and hit test button. When the last code is pulled, just turn key to start and then it should keep going
 
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92Apocalypso

Well-Known Member
Mar 7, 2017
217
62
58
35
Don't turn off car. Dump the codes with engine off, and as soon as you are complete with those, start the engine without turning ignition off.

Codes need to be done in sequence with engine off codes and immediately into the engine running codes. The car will start, idle up for a min or so, then idle drops and codes will blink out.

As soon as codes are done, blip the throttle 50% real quick. That will start cylinder balance test. Car will idle up a tad and turn one one injector at a time. When done, a single code will display

Ah! Thanks a ton. I will definitely do this tomorrow. To be clear, the first portion of the test I did was correct? Then start up as soon as those in Italy codes are finished and follow your instructions from there? Thanks again
Correct. Turn key to on and hit test button. When the last code is pulled, just turn key to start and then it should keep going

Awesome. I'll do this tomorrow and get back to you. Thank you
 

92Apocalypso

Well-Known Member
Mar 7, 2017
217
62
58
35
Never used that code reader, I have access to a snapon hidalla wizbang model that tells you what to do.
Run the koeo codes then quickly mat the gas and it will start the koer code procedure, should be in the instructions someplace. Read the dumping engine running codes above.

Lastly, I apologize in advance if this is a dumb question, but if I have the code reader I do not have to jump anything right
 

92Apocalypso

Well-Known Member
Mar 7, 2017
217
62
58
35
Nope plug and play.

Ok man. I am hoping this helps. I drove the car around for a good 30 minutes. I can definitely smell gas and I do have A catted X on the car. It runs and idles great. The only thing it does is stall out when you first start it up, unless you give it gas for 10 sec and then it's fine. No issues at all.

So with the scanner I did key on engine off, and I got the codes 10, 96. According to manual a 10 or 11 means pass or proceed to next test. The manual was very persistent about mentioning not to run the engine on test until these problems are fixed. I followed your instructions and started the engine up, right after that code 96. And it really didn't do anything except rev the motor...I waited ample time and scanner showed nothing. I turned everything off and read the manual closely and it instructed me to run engine running test from the start (meaning, don't go from koeo test). I tried it that way and it gave me codes 10, 41, 91, 41, 91.

Turned it off and ran the koeo one more time and this time it read 23, 10, 96.

Keep in mind it failed emissions for running super rich as well as fuel pressure test. What do you think of those codes? I know 96 was fuel pump relatedd. I forget the others and the back is with car at my fathers house. Thanks for any and all input.