Please help, out of ideas

DarkProphet

Founding Member
Aug 19, 2002
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Quakertown, PA
Car still has problems leaking coolant into oil, help please

I was getting my car ready to sell by replacing the headgaskets because I thought that was why my car was getting coolant into the oil. I just drove it today for the first time since i rebuilt it and the SAME PROBLEMS ARE HAPPENING!
The coolant is getting pushed back into the overflow, and when i take the cap off the rad, there is alof of air in there. The coolant is getting into the oil, and the car is pushing out blue/white smoking from the exhaust. What should I look for? All these problems started when i put a different intake manifold on, is it posisble that the intake manifold could cause all these problems ( i know it oculd mix oil and coolant, but could it cause smoking?)
 
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low 120's :shrug:


cars are gonna vary...... I wonder how possible it is that yoy have a cracked block...... Did you check the block for warpage before replacing the head gaskets, did the block need milling etc.???



jason
 
No, i didnt check the block or heads, other then with a straight edge. If i would have had more time, i would have, but I need to sell the car very soon, and figured they would be ok. Will a compression test tell me if the headgasket is bad?
 
DarkProphet said:
No, i didnt check the block or heads, other then with a straight edge. If i would have had more time, i would have, but I need to sell the car very soon, and figured they would be ok. Will a compression test tell me if the headgasket is bad?

Yes, it will tell you. More importantly, check all pistons, and note the psi on each. It's more important to look all all 4 numbers on one bank instead of just the gross PSI number.

Also, you might want to see if your timing cover is leaking. I don't know how you could test it without removing it, blocking off the coolant holes in the block, and then pressurizing the coolant system and seeing where it leaks.
Scott
 
I did the compression test today. My mom Held it at WOT while cranking (as i read to do) and here are the results:

4-155 8-145
3-150 7-150
2-145 6-140
1-150 5-150

So the test looks like a negative for a blown headgasket. Im going to check my intake manifold, and put the stock one back in. Any one else with other ideas?
 
DarkProphet said:
I did the compression test today. My mom Held it at WOT while cranking (as i read to do) and here are the results:

4-155 8-145
3-150 7-150
2-145 6-140
1-150 5-150

So the test looks like a negative for a blown headgasket. Im going to check my intake manifold, and put the stock one back in. Any one else with other ideas?

Yeah, that looks good.

Your lower intake is leaking coolant, your timing cover is leaking coolant, or your block is cracked....one of the three. Start with the intake, and then move to the cover, then test the block.
Scott
 
Just wondering ... what is considered "okay" on the compression #'s? Mine weren't that far apart. Mine tested at 140-145 psi on ALL cylinders. His are 140-155 psi. I thought it didn't really matter what the #'s are .... as long as they're all "close together". :shrug:
 
SeventyMach1 said:
Just wondering ... what is considered "okay" on the compression #'s? Mine weren't that far apart. Mine tested at 140-145 psi on ALL cylinders. His are 140-155 psi. I thought it didn't really matter what the #'s are .... as long as they're all "close together". :shrug:

Justin, I think it's usually no more than 15% difference between the cylinders is what you want to have. He's just about right.

DarkProphet, since your compression numbers turned up good (look very similar to mine BTW) then like Scott said, I'd check that lower intake gasket. That's part of the reason I had coolant in my oil as well. That's also the easiest thing to check when you have this problem. Other than that, pray it's a timing cover issue and not a cracked block.
 
If you only checked the heads with a straight edge then they could still very well be WARPED causing the same problem all over again. Or there could be a warp or crack on the INSIDE of the jacket causing this best to my knowledge. In my o, you haven't eliminated the heads by any means until you have them checked or planed. Anyone disagree?

BTW I feel for ya. This really SUCKS considering you just want to unload this car. Sheesh!!

I have a stock 302 block and heads in my garage I am either going to get $100 for or throw away. I just don't have room for it. If it is your block, let me know. This is just missing the oil pump and pan, has 146k on it, and ran just great except for slight very light tap on start up for like...2 seconds literally. I need room in my garage and ditching it soon. Needs cleaning but it runs!
 
Pokageek said:
If you only checked the heads with a straight edge then they could still very well be WARPED causing the same problem all over again. Or there could be a warp or crack on the INSIDE of the jacket causing this best to my knowledge. In my o, you haven't eliminated the heads by any means until you have them checked or planed. Anyone disagree?

Makes sense to me. :shrug:
 
DarkProphet said:
im putting the stock intake back in whenever i can get the gaskets for it, All these problems started when i did the mods, so Im hoping its just the intake.

Definitely let us know what happens. You're struggling to get your stang running right just like me. :) I'm rooting for you man.
 
DarkProphet said:
Im still waiting on the gaskets for the stock intake. Should i use my 70mm tb or should I just use the stocker?

:shrug: Use whichever. If you're planning on buying another 94/95 stang, put the stock one on, then you'll already have a 70mm one for your new stang. Or you can sell it seperately.
 
I think i found one of the problems. I belive my dad put the Tstat in backwards. This doesnt make sense though as it wasnt over heating, and it made heat from the vents. Does the spring side go towards the back of the motor or front. The spring was in the elbow part, not the manifold when i took it out. Thanks for the help
 
DarkProphet said:
Also, how could I tell if my timing cover was leaking? where is it even located???

It's a big section on the front of the engine .... behind the water pump. It covers the timing chain. You should be able to see a seal all the way around it that tells you it's boundaries. Check for leaks around the seal.