Plug angle on AFR heads and others

Decurion

Member
Sep 28, 2006
353
0
16
Livonia, MI
Is the spark plug angle on the AFR 165 heads the same as the old heads, or is it closer to the gtp heads? Im wondering because I bought a set of 185 Roush Jrs a while back, only to find I had to use a 3lb install kit to make em work with my headers. :bang: Ive since taken the car partly apart, and sooner or later Id like to get it back together, but dont want to have to beat a new set of (expensive) headers to get em to fit. I could be wrong, but I think there are some Mustang headers that will clear, but Ive got a 65 Comet, so most Mustang headers dont work. Trust me when I say that finding good Falcon/Comet headers is not easy. God help you if you have gt40P heads and a clutch cable! Anyway, I wanted to use a set of 165 AFRs when I put the car back together, but do they have the old style plug angle? If not, what heads in the 165-185cc range have the old plug angles?
 
The Roush 180's have stock plug angles, I've got them. The only problem I have had in that area is having to use a small 90 degree plug boot on the #5 cylinder because the header tube is close. Maybe something is wrong with your headers?
 
Coincidence

I can't believe it. i just logged-on to inquire about Windsor Jr. heads on a '87 5.0 with Tri-Y headers from Branda in my '66 and here you're going through the same thing. At present, my #2 plug could be hand tightened, but no socket would clear the header tube. I went to the hardware store, purchased a cheezy emergency "tube" socket for outboard motors, etc., cut it down, drill a couple holes for the bar, and was able to get it on and tightened the 1/16th turn. However, #5 plug won't even clear the header at the terminal connector end (wrong angle), which means I'll have to remove the header and create a semi-circular indentation for the plug access...what a hassle. Gotta wonder what that does to the efficiency of that cylinder!
Cliff :(
 
Tri-Y modification for Cyl. #5

Just ordered a mandrel bent 1 1/2" J-tube with a 2" radius from the local speed shop. Looks like the only way to create enough clearance for the sparkplug and boot is to cut-out the tube portion which angles from the header flange toward the rear and instead come straight out and hook a 90 degree turn. The J-tube has plenty of material, so I'll just assume it will take more than one pass to make the correct fitment. Measure twice, cut once! I'll post a picture this weekend. Too bad I'll spoil that beautiful plated finish... kind of "rat", I guess?
GT1966