Pokageek's Pain thread. 351 stroker (414c.i.) swap PROBLEMS.

Venom351R · May 2, 2008

. I have a 351 based motor and it put down some decent numbers from the dyno sheet I got on the car when I bought it. Im looking for as close to 400 at the wheels as possible once all the new parts go on.

Rick 91GT · May 2, 2008

I believe it's RNH Performance lol Did you ever post up the PP pic's?

Oh well, back to another long day at the office.........

Venom351R · May 2, 2008

Rick 91GT said:
I believe it's RNH Performance lol

You sure?

Pokageek · May 2, 2008

I mean RNH Performance sorry. I will post up the PP picks after I get this thing running right. Rick at RNH PERFORMANCE not motorsports made it and I am sure everyone here will like it.

BV, maybe I can get you your struts on Sunday? That sway bar they dont sell anymore..at least that I can find...I will look again. It is large but has a big bell curve that goes arounnnnd that pan nicely...But also, you need the spacers! I'll try to find them for you or you can look at mine, measure and make your own...

BTW I want to add that my swap problems were not caused by RNH. They just built the motor for me which just needs a couple minor adjustments I am sure. The problems (really - challenges - after all its a hobby) are from going from a 5.0 to a 351 stroker with ALOT more power. This thread has been made to help others avoid my headaches. I AM mechanically inclined but never been experienced in swapping top a totally different engine that was meant for the car, drive-line and chassis. I believe that nearly anyone can do it though after reading this thread!

bjl95mustang · May 3, 2008

Mine went pretty well. I had a tublar k-member and a canton 7qt pan and it barley cleared the power steering rack. I crushed the steering rack when I was installing the engine and lost all of my ps fluid and burned up my pump. And i had to cut and weld the crap out of my long tubes.

And mine kept throwing the belt.

But it was all worth it once I was driving her.

Good luck

BlackVert · May 3, 2008

bjl95mustang said:
Mine went pretty well. I had a tublar k-member and a canton 7qt pan and it barley cleared the power steering rack. I crushed the steering rack when I was installing the engine and lost all of my ps fluid and burned up my pump. And i had to cut and weld the crap out of my long tubes.

And mine kept throwing the belt.

But it was all worth it once I was driving her.

Good luck

what did you do to get your stabilizer bar to clear the oil pan?

BlackVert · May 6, 2008

BlackVert said:
what did you do to get your stabilizer bar to clear the oil pan?

Well, I am answering my own question. I built some spacers for the stabilizer bar brackets using some 3 1/2" long 3/8"carriage bolts, a couple of thin metal plates, and about 80 or so 5/16" washers. That moved the bar down low enough that the bar now goes under the oil pan when the car goes over bumps. It also makes the geometry of the stabilizer bar end links more desirable.

Pokageek · May 6, 2008

Help us out, what ecxactly is a stabilizer bar? I know there is a small bar underneath the big welded one and I took that off so the oil pan wouldn't hit. I am not sure I would want to shim it as it might hit on bumps tho.

Stopsign32v · May 18, 2008

I'd like to bring this thread back up to the top. I am doing this swap as we speak and feel this thread is full of people that know what they are doing with this swap. So if there are any new updates lets hear them!

First Pokageek thanks for making this awsome thread. Alot of information can be found as far as what you need for the swap but you never find a thread with information that will help you with a known problem you might and most of the time will run into. Its always the little things that hold you up.

The major issue I am wondering about it the sway bar hitting the oil pan. I'm not sure if mine will or not. I have the sway bar from my 99 Cobra on my 95 plus I have poly motor mounts that will sit the motor higher. Hopefully this will help with sway bar clearance and header clearance. However I'm sure I will need a 1.5" cowl or maybe bigger.

I do have a question though. Oil pan...which ones will work? I know the M-6675-A58 Ford oil pan kit will work (you can also get this out of Jegs for $135) but it only holds 5 quarts. I'm not sure if this will be enough oil for a Windsor that might be reving to 6,500rpms-7,000rpms. So is there any other oil pan out there? I called Canton and they said they do not sell one that will fit a 94-95 with a 351. The man said that they DID sell one that was said to fit but after people called complaining about it not fitting they now do not say they will fit. Also I do not plan on getting a tubular K member so what are the options?

Dumb questions but where do you guys get those polished pulleys that have the bullet holes in them? Look sweet! Also I have a set of BBK UD pulleys on the 5.0 will these swap over to the 5.8? Reason I'm asking is because I know the 5.0 has 50oz balancer and the 5.8 has a 28oz one. Does it make a difference?

madams74 · May 18, 2008

I purchased an oil pan ( FP16B ) from Autozone for an 87 Crown Vic with the 351W along with the pickup tube. Fit great.

Stopsign32v · May 18, 2008

madams74 said:
I purchased an oil pan ( FP16B ) from Autozone for an 87 Crown Vic with the 351W along with the pickup tube. Fit great.

How many quarts does it hold?

BlackVert · May 18, 2008

Pokageek said:
Help us out, what ecxactly is a stabilizer bar? I know there is a small bar underneath the big welded one and I took that off so the oil pan wouldn't hit. I am not sure I would want to shim it as it might hit on bumps tho.

stabilizer bar=sway bar ... the bar that attaches on each end to the lower control arms. it is held in place on either side by brackets that bolt to the frame.

i can take some pics of it and the way i lowered it so that it wouldn't hit the oil pan

Stopsign32v · May 18, 2008

BlackVert said:
i can take some pics of it and the way i lowered it so that it wouldn't hit the oil pan

That would be great! if you don't mind me asking what oil pan did you use?

BlackVert · May 19, 2008

Stopsign32v said:
That would be great! if you don't mind me asking what oil pan did you use?

canton 15-670

madams74 · May 19, 2008

Stopsign32v said:
How many quarts does it hold?

It holds 5.5 quarts, but there is nothing wrong with this amount even at the RPMS you are speaking of. If you are still concerned you can get a #20-932P windage tray from Canton for the rear sumps this pan uses. The pan is built strong, I was very impressed. Not the cheap quality I expected from aftermarket.

Stopsign32v · May 19, 2008

BlackVert said:
canton 15-670

How did that pan fit? What motor mounts did you use? Reason I ask is because I talked to Canton and they said they had NO oil pans that would work with a 94-95 351 swap.

BlackVert · May 19, 2008

Stopsign32v said:
How did that pan fit? What motor mounts did you use? Reason I ask is because I talked to Canton and they said they had NO oil pans that would work with a 94-95 351 swap.

it's tight. i have an aje k-member that drops the motor 3/4". stock mounts

if i were doing it again, i'd get a crown vic one like madams has

Stopsign32v · May 19, 2008

I'm just wondering if a Crown Vic one would do for a 6,500-7,000rpms redline.

madams74 · May 19, 2008

The oil pump pickup is in the rear so you have the inertia on your side. The oil pump is only going to be able to pull a metered amount anyway. An engine that redlines at 5,600 or 7,000 is not going to starve itself from the pan using the 87 Crown Vic pan. The windage tray helps scrape some oil from dropping down in the pan and keeping up on the crank slingers. If your really concerned then go with a dry sump. I would not hesitate for a second on having a problem with this pan.

BlackVert · May 22, 2008

Stopsign32v said:
That would be great! if you don't mind me asking what oil pan did you use?

the clearance now ... plenty of space

the end link geometry

and the spacer

Pokageek's Pain thread. 351 stroker (414c.i.) swap PROBLEMS.

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