Pokageek's Sound deadening PAIN thread and pics and info

Ok, got an education on sound deadening AFTER I bought it. But for the price the FATMAT holds up well IF you put it in places that don't get too to hot.

Heat:
I do not recommend putting it on roofing as it can get above the limits for the asphalt/rubber adhesion backing. MY car gets hot in the very FRONT of the trans tunnel - NOT a great place for FATMAT. The other hot area is just one part of the passenger side floor boards. The rest stayed cool enough that I am confident it will be ok. I have to give a lot of credit to Ford and/or accufab for keeping the long tubes and exhaust in seemingly the BEST spots for the floor to remain cool. Mine hugs the trans tunnel in front and really doesn't get close to the flooring at all. Then from the mufflers back, it's got a lot of space between the muffler and rear seating area.

Finally, if I had to do it over again, I would have bought Second Skin "Damplifier" INSTEAD of FATMAT for the front tunnel area and parts of the flooring that get hotter. This is where FATMAT will fail and eventually break down and no longer be effective because it is not a Butyl backing. It is asphalt mixed with a special rubber compound. BETTER than brown bead by far but I can tell in the front of the tunnel it is already losing its grip when HOT.

Another thing I noticed is that the temps remain real cool while driving and the metal cools down fast! (roughly 75* weather). In traffic, it will get much hotter toward the front of the trans and I am sure in rush hour 95* (that I never drive it). After the car is shut off the car cools off fast too - at least the metal floor boards.

Smell:
Only when installing do u smell a little asphalt, NO SMELL AFTER INSTALL even when hot!

Sound:
Dunno, haven't driven it. Using my ear not my decibel meter. My preference so deal with it.

Installation:
A pain in the back not to mention you gotta remove the whole interior. Also must use roller to get out the bubbles.

Bioatch SESSION START-->DO NOT GET ANAL ON ME HERE A COUPLE OF YOU. MY test is basic but close enough. I am not going for a Pulitzer prize dammit! I do not care about a difference of 20-30# of total weight, 2 decibels or 10* so deal with it. END SESSION

Thinking of sound deadening? Read here:
Sound Deadener Showdown

Is it dangerous to inhale or if it heats up?:

Fatmat on another forum:
"this material is not dangerous and the information that is in that forum is talking about the asphalt that you would find on the road. What he neglects to say is that there are different kinds of asphalt which are made with different ingredients. Fatmat for instance has absolutely no hydrogen sulfide. The asphalt that is used in road construction does give off fumes because it is heated to the point of being in a liquid form which releases those vapors. As I am sure you know fumes and odor are completely different. The FatMat is mainly a rubber mastic with a asphalt mixture which is used for the adhesion. The only reason it has an odor at all is because it comes straight off the press and is sent to you.
During installation if you have sensitive skin it may cause skin irritation, so it is a good idea to wash up after the install, however that is not common
We have had this product tested and as long as it is not eaten but is used for its intended use it has no health effects. "

PICS

Not best pics but here goes. Ford already has some deadening on the trans tunnel so that part of the FATMAT stays cool. Oh yea, watch out for the metal spurs in the flooring. It hurts like hell right now.:

I hope so! Thank man.

Yes. And cutting lol. Read that link tho if u ever decide to do it. FATMAT fit the price but the butyl products are literally 5 times as effective. I put in three layers tho. Don Sambrook wrote that article and he was very helpful.

That would be cool man. Yes extreme holds up INCREDIBLY well compared to fatmat and regular dynomat. (butyl layers)

thethirdeye88 said:

dont know how much help to sound deadening this is, but i am wrapping my long tubes in the header tape/wrap...

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I did that. It helps if any of the tubes hit and prevents them from vibrating at certian RPM. It REALLY helps with HEAT. Just make sure you spray the wrap with high temp coating so that it doesn't start a fire if oil gets in the wrap.

Bosko5.0 said:

I wouldn't wrap them If I was you, they will rust like crazy!

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Not trying to sound brash but this is Totally and COMPLETELY not true - internet myth. I have had 2 sets of headers, one cheap and one expensive and NEITHER set rusted to any degree what-so-ever with wrap on them after each being on the car 2-3 years IIRC.

Here;s pics of the new carpet on top sound deadener:

Bosko5.0 said:

Ok then this isn't rust. on my bbk Longtubes. that are 2 1/2 years old, I do daily drive my car.




On a side note is your carpet stock or replacement, And whats the purple box with the wire going to it?

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hmm... yes that is rust. I have no idea if it was because of the header wrap tho or your environment. I am not trying to get picky on you but if it was because of header wrap then why aren't mine rusted? Most headers will get rust after a few years tho as they are metal.

And after reading what everyone say this on the net, I thought my cheapo flo-techs should be rusted thru after 3-4 years and they aren't and they look nothing like that. After having no rust with 2 sets (same wrap as you it appears), its almost as if it protected them. My wrapped headers look better than my accufabs at this point. hey,..thinking as I type..I forgot to mention that I always coat mine with a high temp silicone spray sealant as it was recommended before putting any header wrap on... I did this on BOTH sets. My bad that I did not mention that first.

I bought the carpet from 5.0 resto (not massback) and the purple box is the PMS puter I added to handle the extra horses under the hood.

I painted the center console..again not the best pics..its not pushed in all the way yet..letting it cure a little more.