Hey guys, long time since I've posted here, but I'm really needing you guys to try and pull through for me. I have a hoard of new parts going on later this week (springs, shocks/struts, tie rod ends, '03 lower control arms, 17x9/10.5 deep dish bullits, king cobra clutch kit, bearing retainer) and a terrible popping noise is coming from the rear end. But you can only hear it when I turn, left or right doesn't matter, and it gets louder/worse as I turn further, if that makes any sense?? A buddy of mine told me axle bearings?? I'm hoping it won't be too involved or complicated, but any info would be great... Thanks!! :SNSign:
Popping/Cracking sound coming from the rear....
- Thread starter 94GTPilot
- Start date
Bosko5.0
Active Member
it probally is your axle bearings my driver side bearing is gone and i can hear it squeaking and poping when i break hard, jacking up your rear taking off wheels and rear brakes make sure vehicle is secure then try moving the axle up/down and side to side if you have movement your bearing needs replacing do this to both
Also check and make sure ALL your bolts are tighten to right specs, also check for any rub marks on where tire would be
Plus replacing bearing is esay, just light speeling
Also check and make sure ALL your bolts are tighten to right specs, also check for any rub marks on where tire would be
Plus replacing bearing is esay, just light speeling
Bosko5.0
Active Member
it should last ive been driving mine for past 1000 miles hopefully i will get a new axle housing new gears new bearings to fix my problem within the week.
It really helps not to take corners to fast.
It really helps not to take corners to fast.
Bosko5.0
Active Member
you could do that but you cant see the bearing and the breaks wont let the axle move much,
how many miles are on the car?
maybe one of the control arm bushins is gone and or dryrotted that could cuase poping when turning due too axle movment. try jacking up one corner at a time see if you hear any noises check the rear shock bolts; it could be many a things it might be bearings due to getting worser but first check for other things easier things like bolts/bushing might be suspenion due to the fact that "it gets louder/worse as I turn further" which means axle movement .
how many miles are on the car?
maybe one of the control arm bushins is gone and or dryrotted that could cuase poping when turning due too axle movment. try jacking up one corner at a time see if you hear any noises check the rear shock bolts; it could be many a things it might be bearings due to getting worser but first check for other things easier things like bolts/bushing might be suspenion due to the fact that "it gets louder/worse as I turn further" which means axle movement .
94-302-vert
Active Member
My car did the same, it was my worn bushgins in the 4-link. Changed those out to Poly and things got all better.
Ok, so I jacked up the rear, and pushed/pulled on the tires left/right/up/down, and they are pretty solid.. Now I'm thinking a bushing of some kind? I remember having an old explorer that had a bushing pretty much rot away, and any HARD bump would cause an excruciating popping sound.. Any ideas?
Methodical
15 Year Member
If you have to replace the bushings in the upper control arms, you may as well replace the control arm. Also I highly, highly recommend you get the MM bushing removal/install tool - worth its weight in gold.
You put poly bushings in the 4 link?
94-302-vert
Active Member
Yeah, I run all Poly in the rear. the uppers are aftermarket, lowers are ford...
It runs fine... I haven't experienced the mythincal spinouts when cornering and it unloads or anything like that... BUT I don't push it on the street and I run cheap tires so it really doesn pull like a full G turning or anything.....
As for the install time. It took me about 4 hours to do... I was an idiot and did the axle bushings first instead of figuring it out while not under the car... basically chisel away / pry out whatever you can. then heat the remaining bushing with a torch and scrape clean with a screwdriver... easy and fast. I had it down to about 10 minutes a bushing...
It runs fine... I haven't experienced the mythincal spinouts when cornering and it unloads or anything like that... BUT I don't push it on the street and I run cheap tires so it really doesn pull like a full G turning or anything.....
As for the install time. It took me about 4 hours to do... I was an idiot and did the axle bushings first instead of figuring it out while not under the car... basically chisel away / pry out whatever you can. then heat the remaining bushing with a torch and scrape clean with a screwdriver... easy and fast. I had it down to about 10 minutes a bushing...
True 5.0
Member
Do you still have the factory Traction Lok diff in there? I had a old Bronco that i put a Detroit Locker in and it popped and cracked in turns to where people thought the wheels were going to come off!! I ditched the unit a year later for a Traction Lok and was much happier.
True 5.0
Member
Not to sound snotty, but re-read my post. I did make a mistake however. I had a Lock-Right and not a Detroit Locker. Same concept but different installation.
I put in a Traction Lok and ditched the Lock-Right. The LR doesn't use friction plates like the TL does. It instead uses ratcheting teeth which gives great positive traction when going straight but makes a hell of a racket in turns due to the different rotational speeds of the rear tires. The tighter the turn, the greater the speed differential. You'll see the basic design here:
http://www.powertrax.com/noslip.htm
Do you have a Lock-Right or Detroit Locker in there??
I put in a Traction Lok and ditched the Lock-Right. The LR doesn't use friction plates like the TL does. It instead uses ratcheting teeth which gives great positive traction when going straight but makes a hell of a racket in turns due to the different rotational speeds of the rear tires. The tighter the turn, the greater the speed differential. You'll see the basic design here:
http://www.powertrax.com/noslip.htm
Do you have a Lock-Right or Detroit Locker in there??
I had a popping sound when I turned right and left. It turned out that my differential clutch disc were worn and the limited slip diff had to be rebuilt and I had extra diff clutch disc added.
If you can not find the culpet by ruling everything else(bushings, tires, wheel bearings, quad shock) then take to a mechanic and ask him if it sound like binding in the rear axle. It cost me about $175 but my mechanic is my dads best friend. So I would expect to pay around $300 to $400 at a non-friend mechanic. My thoughts or imput only apply if you have a limited slip rear axle(I believe).
If you can not find the culpet by ruling everything else(bushings, tires, wheel bearings, quad shock) then take to a mechanic and ask him if it sound like binding in the rear axle. It cost me about $175 but my mechanic is my dads best friend. So I would expect to pay around $300 to $400 at a non-friend mechanic. My thoughts or imput only apply if you have a limited slip rear axle(I believe).
