Porting E7 heads?

7upstang91

10 Year Member
May 30, 2008
936
124
74
Florida
I have a set of of stock 5.0 heads. I just pulled my old heads out the the attic. I have two 5.0s one is completely built. The other still has the stock heads and cam. I was wondering it those heads could could be ported for cheap, they would be better than stock right? But how much it cost and what power would it make?
Thanks guys!
 
A DIY (do it yourself) port job will probably net you about 20hp without any other changes. Other intake and exhaust mods will also increase power levels exponentially with them done. Just don't get crazy with the die grinder. A conservative approach is best. Remember....measure twice, cut once. ;)

Personally though.....for the amount a good set of used aluminum heads can be bought for now a days, I hardly consider ported stockers worth the time or effort anymore. But that's just my opinion. :shrug:
 
porting stock stuff is really only cost-effective if you can do it yourself.

I have a set of e7s that I ported extensively, installed ls2 springs, broke into to sleeve the pushrod hole, put gt40 valves in . . . but that's only because I had the springs and valves already and did everything myself other than install the seats.

I would hate to think how much it would cost a shop to do all that to some boat anchor heads.

if you are going to port yourself (which I highly recommend) check out the good porting sites on here or online.
Also beware that the thinnest part is around the valve guide on the e7s. You will never be able to make the exhaust guides look like an aftermarket aluminum head.
 
I've ported a few sets of heads, intakes, and the like
and
I agree about Cost vrs Power Gain

If you don't have ANY equipment

Its gonna set you back a good bit of money to get equipped

Yes you can do it with small stuff like a Dremmel
so
That will help keep your cost a bit lower
but
Man O Man ... it will take you forever
as opposed to
A die grinder, air compressor, and Carbide porting burrs

The cost of a nice valve job, porting equipment, spring upgrade, etc ......

It is so easy to get to the point of sinking too much money in
old OEM iron heads for not all that much more power

We won't even go into the knowledge or ability that one needs
to make sure the porting will be beneficial

anyway ...........

Just do your research to see how much money you are willing to spend

Grady
 
If your set on the E7's and dont have the tools or time, I would look into thumper Performance, out of Orange Park Florida. You send them your E7's and they send you back a set that has had a 3-angle valve job and is fully ported, the price is $595 shipped to your door. Which if you think about it, a good set of Aluminiums are $1000 and up. Check em Out.
 
If your set on the E7's and dont have the tools or time, I would look into thumper Performance, out of Orange Park Florida. You send them your E7's and they send you back a set that has had a 3-angle valve job and is fully ported, the price is $595 shipped to your door. Which if you think about it, a good set of Aluminiums are $1000 and up. Check em Out.
Not if you buy used. ;)
 
I ported a set of 78 302 heads, and they gave me about .4 sec in the quartermile over a set of identical 79 stock ones.

I spent a year on and off porting them with a die grinder. Very messy. Probably would have been more effective if I had put larger valves in them and milled them to reduce chamber size.

Fun to do, or to have done, but not the easiest way to make big power.
 
No doubt . . . I just saw a set of performer RPMs go for $550 in a local forum I am on.

Its a rare case but you can pick up a lot of legit used aluminum heads for $700-800. I bought a set of aluminum windsor jr heads for $700 and I have seen twisted wedges and RPMs sell in that range as well.
 
used aluminum is a great option but remember to budget having a machine shop check them out. I'd hate to put all that time into a head swap an have a problem an have to take them right back off.

I would consider it mandatory to deck any used head .010 just to clean the nicks and scratches off of the surface face, then disassemble them and re-lap the valves while checking them for wear, clean them all up and install a new set of rubber valve seals. Cheap insurance IMO. :nice: