Fuel Possible fuel issue.

This will show you where the spout is,

Thank you for that. I wondered if that was what it was. Everything I kept finding was for 94-newer... Im going to go out and check the wiring to and from the computer. Im not sure the wiring is doing though just because I put the other computer in and it will run. Im sure ill figure it out eventually. That or ill start advertising it at car shows and find something with less to figure out lol :p
 
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I found some other issues that I’m going to address first n see if they help... a couple vacuum lines I didn’t see were in bad shape. Replaced the one and it’s already running better with the old computer... going to replace all of them after my vacation next week then see how things go....
 
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So I checked the timing and realized it was off quite a bit... it was well over 20 deg.... I set it to 10. Runs great warm now but not cold... however when it’s warm I ran the codes and got 82 Key on engine off which I expected because the smog pump isn’t hooked up currently, continuous memory code 18 which I see can be caused by a couple things. The only thing I checked there so far was to make sure there was not a short to ground. engine running codes I get 41 and 91 which I believe are from the O2 sensors saying the engine is running lean.

Any thoughts on these codes? I know I read somewhere how to check the spout connector so I will look around n see if I can find that info and check that, however if that tests ok what should I look at next to fix the code 18. Also I am thinking about making a video of how it’s running to see if anyone can tell from the sound of it if maybe I’m overlooking anything... do you think that might be helpful? If so I’ll definitely do it...

Thank you all again for your time and help.
 
So I checked the timing and realized it was off quite a bit... it was well over 20 deg.... I set it to 10. Runs great warm now but not cold... however when it’s warm I ran the codes and got 82 Key on engine off which I expected because the smog pump isn’t hooked up currently, continuous memory code 18 which I see can be caused by a couple things. The only thing I checked there so far was to make sure there was not a short to ground. engine running codes I get 41 and 91 which I believe are from the O2 sensors saying the engine is running lean.

Any thoughts on these codes? I know I read somewhere how to check the spout connector so I will look around n see if I can find that info and check that, however if that tests ok what should I look at next to fix the code 18. Also I am thinking about making a video of how it’s running to see if anyone can tell from the sound of it if maybe I’m overlooking anything... do you think that might be helpful? If so I’ll definitely do it...

Thank you all again for your time and help.

How to clear codes.
Clearing the codes by pressing a button on the scan tool or disconnecting the test jumper used to start the code dump does not erase the “learned settings”. All it does is erase the stored codes in memory.

You must clear the codes anytime you replace any sensor. The following tells you how and is different from the method above
Clear the computer codes by disconnecting the battery negative terminal and turn the headlights on. Turn the headlights off and reconnect the all sensors including the MAF and anything else you may have disconnected. Then reconnect the battery negative cable.. This clears all spurious codes may have been generated while troubleshooting problems. It also clears the adaptive settings that the computer "learns" as it operates. Clearing the codes does not fix the code problems, it just gives you a clean slate to start recording what the computer sees happening.

Run the car for at least 30 minutes of driving and dump the codes again to assure that you have fixed the code problem or sensor problem. This is necessary for the computer to relearn the adaptive settings that the computer uses for proper operation. The engine may run rough at first, but should smooth out as it runs for the 15-20 minute learning period.



Code 41 or 91. Or 43 Three digit code 172 or 176 - O2 sensor indicates system lean. Look for a vacuum leak or failing O2 sensor.

Revised 01 Sep 2019 1.) To emphasize do not attempt to measure the O2 sensor resistance. Disconnect the O2 sensor from the wiring before doing any resistance checking of the sensor to computer wiring.

Code 41 is the passenger side sensor, as viewed from the driver's seat.
Code 91 is the driver side sensor, as viewed from the driver's seat.

Code 172 is the passenger side sensor as viewed from the driver's seat.
Code 176 is the driver side sensor, as viewed from the driver's seat.

Code 43 is not side specific according to the Probst Ford Fuel injection book.

The computer sees a lean mixture signal coming from the O2 sensors and tries to compensate by adding more fuel. Many times the end result is an engine that runs pig rich and stinks of unburned fuel.

The following is a Quote from Charles O. Probst, Ford fuel Injection & Electronic Engine control:

"When the mixture is lean, the exhaust gas has oxygen, about the same amount as the ambient air. So the sensor will generate less than 400 Millivolts. Remember lean = less voltage.
When the mixture is rich, there's less oxygen in the exhaust than in the ambient air , so voltage is generated between the two sides of the tip. The voltage is greater than 600 millivolts. Remember rich = more voltage.
Here's a tip: the newer the sensor, the more the voltage changes, swinging from as low as 0.1 volt to as much as 0.9 volt. As an oxygen sensor ages, the voltage changes get smaller and slower - the voltage change lags behind the change in exhaust gas oxygen.

Because the oxygen sensor generates its own voltage, never apply voltage and never measure resistance of the O2 sensor. Before checking the O2 sensor circuit wiring resistance, disconnect the O2 sensor from the rest of the circuit wiring. To measure voltage signals, use an analog voltmeter with a high input impedance, at least 10 megohms. Remember, a digital voltmeter will average a changing voltage. End Quote

Testing the O2 sensors 87-93 5.0 Mustangs

Measuring the O2 sensor voltage at the computer will give you a good idea of how well they are working. You'll have to pull the passenger side kick panel off to gain access to the computer connector. Remove the plastic wiring cover to get to the back side of the wiring. Use a safety pin or paper clip to probe the connections from the rear.


Disconnect the O2 sensor from the harness and use the body side O2 sensor harness as the starting point for testing. Do not measure the resistance of the O2 sensor, you may damage it. Resistance measurements for the O2 sensor harness are made with one meter lead on the O2 sensor harness and the other meter lead on the computer wire or pin for the O2 sensor.
Computer wiring harness connector, computer side.
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Backside view of the computer wiring connector:
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87-90 5.0 Mustangs:
Computer pin 43 Dark blue/Lt green – LH O2 sensor
Computer pin 29 Dark Green/Pink – RH O2 sensor

The computer pins are 29 (RH O2 with a dark green/pink wire) and 43 (LH O2 with a dark blue/lt green wire). Use the ground next to the computer to ground the voltmeter. The O2 sensor voltage should switch between .2-.9 volt at idle.


91-93 5.0 Mustangs:
Computer pin 43 Red/Black – LH O2 sensor
Computer pin 29 Gray/Lt blue – RH O2 sensor

The computer pins are 29 (RH O2 with a Gray/Lt blue wire) and 43 (LH O2 with a Red/Black wire). Use the ground next to the computer to ground the voltmeter. The O2 sensor voltage should switch between .2-.9 volt at idle.


94-95 5.0 Mustangs; note that the 94-95 uses a 4 wire O2 sensor.
The computer pins are 29 (LH O2 with a red/black wire) and 27 (RH O2 with a gray/lt blue wire). Use pin 32 (gray/red wire) to ground the voltmeter. . The O2 sensor voltage should switch between .2-.9 volt at idle.


Note that all resistance tests must be done with power off. Measuring resistance with a circuit powered on will give false readings and possibly damage the meter. Do not attempt to measure the resistance of the O2 sensors, it may damage them.

Testing the O2 sensor wiring harness
Most of the common multimeters have a resistance scale. Be sure the O2 sensors are disconnected and measure the resistance from the O2 sensor body harness to the pins on the computer. Using the Low Ohms range (usually 200 Ohms) you should see less than 1.5 Ohms.



87-90 5.0 Mustangs:
Computer pin 43 Dark blue/Lt green – LH O2 sensor
Computer pin 29 Dark Green/Pink – RH O2 sensor
Disconnect the connector from the O2 sensor and measure the resistance:
From the Dark blue/Lt green wire in the LH O2 sensor harness and the Dark blue/Lt green wire on the computer pin 43
From the Dark Green/Pink wire on the RH O2 sensor harness and the Dark Green/Pink wire on the computer pin 29


91-93 5.0 Mustangs:
Computer pin 43 Red/Black – LH O2 sensor
Computer pin 29 Gray/Lt blue – RH O2 sensor
Disconnect the connector from the O2 sensor and measure the resistance:
From the Red/Black wire in the LH O2 sensor harness and the Red/Black wire on the computer pin 43
From the Gray/Lt blue wire on the RH O2 sensor harness and the Gray/Lt blue wire on the computer pin 29

94-95 5.0 Mustangs:
Computer pin 29 Red/Black – LH O2 sensor
Computer pin 27 Gray/Lt blue – RH O2 sensor
From the Red/Black wire in the LH O2 sensor harness and the Red/Black wire on the computer pin 29
From the Dark Green/Pink Gray/Lt blue wire on the RH O2 sensor harness and the Gray/Lt blue wire on the computer pin 27


There is a connector between the body harness and the O2 sensor harness. Make sure the connectors are mated together, the contacts and wiring are not damaged, and the contacts are clean and not coated with oil.

The O2 sensor ground (orange wire with a ring terminal on it) is in the wiring harness for the fuel injection wiring. I grounded mine to one of the intake manifold bolts

Check the fuel pressure – the fuel pressure is 37-41 PSI with the vacuum disconnected and the engine idling. Fuel pressure out of range can cause the 41 & 91 codes together. It will not cause a single code, only both codes together.

Make sure you have the proper 3 wire O2 sensors. Only the 4 cylinder cars used a 4 wire sensor, which is not compatible with the V8 wiring harness. The exception is that the 94-95 uses a 4 wire O2 sensor.

Replace the O2 sensors in pairs if replacement is indicated. If one is weak or bad, the other one probably isn't far behind.

Code 41 can also be due to carbon plugging the driver’s side Thermactor air crossover tube on the back of the engine. The tube fills up with carbon and does not pass air to the driver’s side head ports. This puts an excess amount of air in the passenger side exhaust and can set the code 41. Remove the tube and clean it out so that both sides get good airflow: this may be more difficult than it sounds. You need something like a mini rotor-rooter to do the job because of the curves in the tube. Something like the outer spiral jacket of a flexible push-pull cable may be the thing that does the trick.

If you get only code 41 and have changed the sensor, look for vacuum leaks. This is especially true if you are having idle problems. The small plastic tubing is very brittle after many years of the heating it receives. Replace the tubing and check the PVC and the hoses connected to it.

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 94-95 Mustangs
94-95_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif


Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 91-93 Mass Air Mustangs
91-93_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif


Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 88-90 Mass Air Mustangs
88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif
 
Also an A9L?
Yes it is an A9L. This one doesn’t give me the code 19 thankfully but I think I’m battle issues that were there that the other computer wasn’t able to see because of the code 19. Idk if that makes sense but sounds right in my own head lol.. I feel like I’m making progress now but I also think I’m finding there’s more wrong with this car than I originally thought...

I’m volunteering at a cruise in tomorrow to benefit a couple folks in our community so I would be able to get back at it until sometime during the week but I plan to go through jrichker’s post and see what I come up with there.

Thank you again
 
I guess they didn't fix everything in your first A9L?
KOEO - Code 19 is "Failure in EEC internal voltage", i.e. bad ECU.
I don't use the EEC-IV anymore but still have the original speed density DA-1 & MAF A9L.
The local parts store could still be doing core exchanges on ECU's.
It's around $100 with the exchange. With no exchange, it could be $300.
Aftermarket ECU starts at about $900, depending on brand.
You might find this useful, too.
 
Wow there’s a lot of useful information there... I will be spending some checking that site out.

Just out of curiosity, I’ve been seeing in a lot of the reading that the VSS system can cause issues as well? I’ve known my speedometer didn’t work properly and I changed the speed sensor and speedometer gear a while back. The gear stripped out about 2 weeks latter. Internally where the gear actually connects on the speed sensor. The gear turns from what I’m assuming but it’s not turning the speed sensor because of it... how much off an effect on the car would the speed sensor be causing if that’s not working? I think the cable itself is the problem and not allowing anything to turn. I planned on replacing it eventually after I had it running better but then I thought about this today and wanted to see what you guys think or if that might not make a difference at all in this situation...

Thank you again
 
VSS not used for the speedo which just has a cable to the transmission.
VSS is used on the GT for the cruise control & on later models for the ECU. Keeps the idle up when out of gear & coasting to a stop.
Will not work with your A9L unless 2 wires were added to the ECU harness. pin-3 (VSS+), pin-6 (VSS-).
You can buy the pins, etc from Interactive Systems & Technolgies.
They bought all the remaining supplies for the 60-pin connectors & components.

EFI_harness.gif
 
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I have another question about the car that I didn’t know if I should post in a different spot or if here was ok.

The car currently has long tube headers (I don’t know the brand) an no converters. Then smog pump is there but a smaller belt was put on to bypass the pump. I want to get converters put back on it and hook up the smog pump but what I don’t know is what to use for tubing to run from the converters up to the piping for the smog pump... seems like I can find everything replacement online to buy other than that.

Thank you again for any help.
 
Thank you, I’m going to check with the exhaust guy my uncle deals with to see if he can get the cats n that tube installed... if not I will order this one and try to get it hooked up myself... thank you for pointing the part out to me though, I appreciate it