Do y'all think a power pipe is worthwhile really or not with the 6- lb vortech kit or would I bet just as good using the provided "dryer ducting?" Why could a guy make one or adapt an existing cai to fit?
Power Pipe Vs Dryer Vent Duct
- Thread starter 90lxwhite
- Start date
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
Yes the powerpipe is proven to add boost. Why not get the kit first, install and tune it, and then see if you want to add one.
bentley429isBAC
10 Year Member
Yes the powerpipe is a proven winner! Do it all at once and save some tune money. If you want to save a few bucks on a powerpipe , I use a UPR Boostmaster powerpipe. Its made of black ABS plastic and much cheaper than the Anderson Ford powerpipe. The aluminum Anderson pipe is a prettier piece but I'm cheap and actually like the cleaner look of the UPR pipe.
Good Luck
Good Luck
Upr- yeah I was just lookin at that one. http://m.uprproducts.com/mustang-abs-plastic-boost-master-tube.html It says it works for fox and 94/95, wonder what needs to be modified to work w 95? When people say they gained 1-2 psi what kind of power does that translate to?
I vote for the dryer vent duct because if you end up not liking it, you can make one of these:
![lost-in-space[1].webp](https://stangnet.com/mustang-forums/attachments/lost-in-space-1-webp.88521/ "lost-in-space[1].webp")
If your tune was done correctly (i.e. fuel ramps, spark tables, etc. all where they should be), you should not have to retune because of a couple pounds of boost. I change the boost in my setup fairly often with no ill-effects. My meter is nowhere near pegged. More air = more fuel and the tune is setup for that.
On an SD car that doesn't reference a MAP for boost, then that would be true. Otherwise, the meter, sensors, and tune should do their jobs unless the meter pegs. WOT fuel and spark tables are just that... tables. They should be ramped as is any other portion of the tune and should track just fine even if adding boost for a total of one bar.
Now... Were I going to swap completely from say, a 6 lb setup to a 14+lb setup (i.e. completely different SC all-together) then I would retune.
Another good reason to retune might be the addition or removal of an inter/after cooler of some sort, though the IAT should be taking care of that variable if tuned correctly the first time.
If your tune was done correctly (i.e. fuel ramps, spark tables, etc. all where they should be), you should not have to retune because of a couple pounds of boost. I change the boost in my setup fairly often with no ill-effects. My meter is nowhere near pegged. More air = more fuel and the tune is setup for that.
On an SD car that doesn't reference a MAP for boost, then that would be true. Otherwise, the meter, sensors, and tune should do their jobs unless the meter pegs. WOT fuel and spark tables are just that... tables. They should be ramped as is any other portion of the tune and should track just fine even if adding boost for a total of one bar.
Now... Were I going to swap completely from say, a 6 lb setup to a 14+lb setup (i.e. completely different SC all-together) then I would retune.
Another good reason to retune might be the addition or removal of an inter/after cooler of some sort, though the IAT should be taking care of that variable if tuned correctly the first time.
Noobz- clever and wise. I'm liking the price of the upr but I'm leary on the fit. Reason being its listed for 86-95 being they're all 302's of course but it seems like the bends wouldn't all be the same. Y'all know what I'm saying? The 94/95 w the elbow on intake etc.
Several of us have made our own from 4" intercooler tubing. I built mine for around 50 dollars. I am n/a though.
True, If you are creative it can be much cheaper. A few Years back when I added the Vortech to my SSC I wanted a powerpipe but did NOT want to cut the inner fender on that car.
So, I helped a fabricator friend of mine custom make me one that would fit through the factory hole using Diesel exhaust piping. Turned out great, fit perfect, and the best part I didn't cut up my SSC.
After it was all said and done I only had around $40 in piping and welding labor.
CHEAP!
I shot it with some rattle can paint but later decided to take it and have it chrome plated and that was $75.
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
