I have an 89 convertible with power windows. I decided to replace the torque pins to help my windows work better. The passenger side went fine and after some aligning the window goes up and down great. Nice and smooth and fits the weatherstripping, so no more leaks!
Started the driver's side this morning, and discovered big problems. It seems some one (who didn't know what they were doing) decided to remove the power window regulator mounting plate (the steel plate riveted to the door). I think they did this to change the motor because it was from a JY. Well they reattached the regulator with cheap bolts and then they used sheet metal screws to attach the plate to the door. Well the regulator was broken from all the slop.
Luckily I have a spare convertible so I took the regulator out of it. I used the parts car's regulator and steel plate. Riveted everything back together. Then replaced torque pins in the motor and realigned everything. The window goes up smooth, but when it comes down it is jerky and rocks. Going down, you will hear the motor first, then the window jerks down a bit. I tried realigning for several hours until I discovered that if I bring the window down about an inch, I can grab the window and pull it up and down nearly the inch I lowered it. I can see the regulator move a little ( up and down) like the torque pins haven't been replaced. I can't tell if the motor is turning as well. I don't think so. I tried putting the rebuilt window motor gear in a different motor to see if that helps, but same results.
Anybody know what might be causing the slop in the regulator motor assembly. How can i remove the slack in the system. The regulator seemed good, but I had never used it in the parts car.
If it was the passenger's door, I would leave it apart till I fixed it. It sucks driving around with no door panel and a junky window.
thanks for any help
Started the driver's side this morning, and discovered big problems. It seems some one (who didn't know what they were doing) decided to remove the power window regulator mounting plate (the steel plate riveted to the door). I think they did this to change the motor because it was from a JY. Well they reattached the regulator with cheap bolts and then they used sheet metal screws to attach the plate to the door. Well the regulator was broken from all the slop.
Luckily I have a spare convertible so I took the regulator out of it. I used the parts car's regulator and steel plate. Riveted everything back together. Then replaced torque pins in the motor and realigned everything. The window goes up smooth, but when it comes down it is jerky and rocks. Going down, you will hear the motor first, then the window jerks down a bit. I tried realigning for several hours until I discovered that if I bring the window down about an inch, I can grab the window and pull it up and down nearly the inch I lowered it. I can see the regulator move a little ( up and down) like the torque pins haven't been replaced. I can't tell if the motor is turning as well. I don't think so. I tried putting the rebuilt window motor gear in a different motor to see if that helps, but same results.
Anybody know what might be causing the slop in the regulator motor assembly. How can i remove the slack in the system. The regulator seemed good, but I had never used it in the parts car.
If it was the passenger's door, I would leave it apart till I fixed it. It sucks driving around with no door panel and a junky window.
thanks for any help
I originally installed the regulators with the bare minimum tension on the spring, it seemed fine until i noticed the drop in the window and one day i shut the door and the spring just fell out and dropped to the bottom of the door. Thats when i decided to wind the spring up one time and stick the bolt through it. You have to wind the regulator with it out of the vehicle. I unbolted the motor and then moved the regulator forward towards the front of the vehicle and slipped it out once it came out the track.