Whats the best way to learn how to powershift without exploding your engine, clutch and trans? I can speed shift quite well but I am afraid to not lift my right foot off the floor.
Thanks
Thanks
Powershifting a T45
- Thread starter midnightdriver
- Start date
Tim2002GT
Founding Member
What condition is your clutch in? Also, do you have a short throw shifter? If either of these are in question, I don't recommend you powershift. If you have aftermarket shifter, make sure your shift stops are adjusted properly before you try it.
To answer your question, you can try some low rpm powershifts. Your car won't be making as much power in the lower rpms so it "should" be less harmful if you screw up. Maybe practice a bit with the engine off and just go through the motions until you get a feel for it.
I don't really recommend it either way, eventually it will take its toll on your tranny/drivetrain and you will have some expensive repairs coming your way. If that doesn't bother you, by all means row away!
To answer your question, you can try some low rpm powershifts. Your car won't be making as much power in the lower rpms so it "should" be less harmful if you screw up. Maybe practice a bit with the engine off and just go through the motions until you get a feel for it.
I don't really recommend it either way, eventually it will take its toll on your tranny/drivetrain and you will have some expensive repairs coming your way. If that doesn't bother you, by all means row away!
Be Careful! If you depend on the car for daily transportation and don't have 1000+ cash available for repairs, then just don't power shift.
I say this from experience. The shift forks in the T45 are weak and break after repeated power shifts or missed gears. Replacing the shift forks requires the transmission to be REMOVED and pretty much everything inside disassembled and costs over 1k$. The forks are weak cast aluminum and not very strong... especially if you are trying to power shift with worn syncros, which is typical for more than about 50k miles.
Anyway... I started with low rpms. Try some power shifts from 3rd to 4th at 1500-2000rpm. You won't be in danger of breaking the tires loose and the lower revs give plenty of time to recover with little consequence. Timing is everything. Then, work the rpms up, keeping in mind that it takes more finess and strength at higher revs. Unless you have a new transmission, your syncros are probably worn, and will cause significant extra resistance when changing at high rpms (and danger for breaking shift forks). In fact, I can't power shift at 5500 or above because the syncros just can't keep up.
Power shifting is great fun and the only way to post up good times at the track with a stockish NPI. Just be careful. It is pretty easy to get sideways on a hard 1-2 shift. WHEN you break a shift fork, I highly recommend installing forks from Hanlin. They are supposably stronger. I've been running them for a while and I'm pretty happy with them.
I say this from experience. The shift forks in the T45 are weak and break after repeated power shifts or missed gears. Replacing the shift forks requires the transmission to be REMOVED and pretty much everything inside disassembled and costs over 1k$. The forks are weak cast aluminum and not very strong... especially if you are trying to power shift with worn syncros, which is typical for more than about 50k miles.
Anyway... I started with low rpms. Try some power shifts from 3rd to 4th at 1500-2000rpm. You won't be in danger of breaking the tires loose and the lower revs give plenty of time to recover with little consequence. Timing is everything. Then, work the rpms up, keeping in mind that it takes more finess and strength at higher revs. Unless you have a new transmission, your syncros are probably worn, and will cause significant extra resistance when changing at high rpms (and danger for breaking shift forks). In fact, I can't power shift at 5500 or above because the syncros just can't keep up.
Power shifting is great fun and the only way to post up good times at the track with a stockish NPI. Just be careful. It is pretty easy to get sideways on a hard 1-2 shift. WHEN you break a shift fork, I highly recommend installing forks from Hanlin. They are supposably stronger. I've been running them for a while and I'm pretty happy with them.
I have the stock shifter, a clutch thats fairly new, about 25k and a stock trans with 88k.
Thanks for all the advice and this was kinda of for future reference cus right now I don't have the money for new parts, but when I do build it up I would like to learn.
I tried it once today, at about 3500 rpms, from 3 to 4 and it was really cool. It shifted very smooth, almost like I used the clutch. However, I take your advice and will never attempted again unless I am willing to deal with broken parts.
Thanks for all the advice and this was kinda of for future reference cus right now I don't have the money for new parts, but when I do build it up I would like to learn.
I tried it once today, at about 3500 rpms, from 3 to 4 and it was really cool. It shifted very smooth, almost like I used the clutch. However, I take your advice and will never attempted again unless I am willing to deal with broken parts.
Tim2002GT
Founding Member
Wait, you are talking about clutchless shifting? I wouldn't recommend that at all. I thought you were talking about no lift shifting.
Yeah, maybe some confusion of terms. Power shifting is changing gears without lifting off the gas, usually at full throttle. You still have to use the clutch and it takes good timing to hit the clutch for just a moment during the gear change.
As for shifting without a clutch... yes, you can at LIGHT loads, but obviously if there is any resistance, you aren't matching the revs well and just killing your syncros. If you are smooth enough, you can slip it out of gear when you let off the gas and slip it back in the next gear at just the right rpm. But it isn't easy on a 4.6 because of the hanging idle. More of a lazyness trick really.
As for shifting without a clutch... yes, you can at LIGHT loads, but obviously if there is any resistance, you aren't matching the revs well and just killing your syncros. If you are smooth enough, you can slip it out of gear when you let off the gas and slip it back in the next gear at just the right rpm. But it isn't easy on a 4.6 because of the hanging idle. More of a lazyness trick really.
No sorry, I mean when I said "kinda like using the clutch" I was thinking about regular shifting. Ie, off throttle, clutch in, shift etc. What i meant was it was as smooth as when I shift the traditional way.
Although, not with this car, I have had to shift without a clutch in my 4x4 because the clutch fork broke. Lets just say, that was the scariest drive back home.
**** idk LOL, but i was on youtube watching this vid of a vortech 2v that went 11.0 with a 1.48 60ft AND STOCK suspension. i noticed that he has a 2step, so i googled 2 step and came across that link. the name is WOT BOX and it happens to be a "LIFTLESS SHIFT" and "2 STEP" for a crazy low price. i googled that and found some good reviews. there alot of vidoes of people using it on all kids of diff cars on youtube. 1st vid is the 11.0 2v, 2nd vid is a guy with WOT BOX
YouTube - 11.0 w/ 1.48 60ft Vortech Mustang London Dragway
YouTube - N2MB WOT Box Testing
why not just learn how to read...it doesnt shift for you, it supposed to take some abuse off your clutch and tranny IF YOU WANT TO POWER SHIFT...
might wanna sharpen up your reading comprehension bud
just playin your game... i fig whats 169.00 shipped? cant go wrong and if i gain a couple of tenths its worth it
Tanus
New Member
I borrowed my brothers 88 nissan sentra, hahaa. learning on a low hp car with a sloppy gearbox is the ticket
crazystang25
Member
- Jan 25, 2009
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