Progress Thread Prime's 87 T-top Gt
- Thread starter Prime Lord
- Start date
If you insist
Do's
- Do store brushes in their original containers in a clean, dry location. Always handle and store brushes in a careful manner.
- Do inspect wire brushes for damage, rust and deterioration before using.
- Do check the speed of the brush and the tool. Do use only brushes with speeds rated at or above the tool’s rated speed.
- Do inspect tools for worn spindle bearings, bent spindle, proper spindle size, or any unusual conditions. Maintain your tools as if your safety depends on it.
- Do select brushes carefully for your application. The incorrect brush will not work effectively and can become dangerous.
- Do mount brushes properly using the tool’s mounting instructions.
- Do wear proper personal protection such as eye and face protection, apron, gloves, safety shoes, etc.
- Do wear government-approved respiratory protection (when required).
- Do review all applicable MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheets) before using this product.
- Do run brush in protected area for one minute before using. Avoid standing in front of or inline with the brush during the one-minute start-up test.
- Do inspect rotating brushes for flutter or vibration, as this could be an indication of a poorly installed brush, damaged tool, or damaged brush.
- Do use the side handle furnished with machine (angle grinders).
- Do always use properly adjusted wheel guard furnished with machine.
- Do avoid excessive pressure when using a brush. Excessive pressure causes over-bending of the filaments and heat build up resulting in filament breakage, rapid dulling and reduced brush life.
- Do direct any stream (shower) of flying particles away from anyone’s face or body. Shield bystanders from any flying particles.
- Do follow any symbols and warnings located on the brush or its packaging.
- Do comply with ANSI B165.1, OSHA and all safety materials provided with the brushes and the tools.
- Do visit the brush manufacturer’s website for additional safety information.
- Do contact your brush manufacturer if you have any safety questions.
Don'ts
- Don’t use a power (wire) brush if you have not reviewed all of the safety materials and not been properly trained in the use of the tool and brush.
- Don’t mount any brushes on tools that they do not fit. Don’t mismatch a brush and tool.
- Don’t use a power (wire) brush unless you and bystanders are wearing proper personal protection such as eye and face protection, apron, gloves, safety shoes, etc.
- Don’t exceed the speed marked on the power (wire) brush.
- Don’t use damaged or worn out brushes.
- Don’t use excessive pressure when using a brush.
- Don’t use on any machine NOT equipped with the proper guard.
- Don’t remove the side handle furnished with machine (angle grinders).
- Don’t create a fire hazard, shield any nearby flammable materials to prevent ignition from the spark stream (shower) or from latent sparks.
- Don’t jam the work into the brush.
I had a 4 1/2" angle grinder with a wire wheel suck up my "loose" shirt and it " wired " down between my chest and belly fairly good....
thank goodness the shirt stopped the wire wheel quickly...... I was a bit sore for a while.......
I watch those shirts now....
thank goodness the shirt stopped the wire wheel quickly...... I was a bit sore for a while.......
I watch those shirts now....
I need someone to explain to me the magic of fuel line disconnects.
These fit perfectly in the collar and I can feel the prongs being pushed in. But they will not come apart.
These fit perfectly in the collar and I can feel the prongs being pushed in. But they will not come apart.
They can be a PITA. I'd suggest spraying some penetrating oil in them where the tool goes. Then get them moving without the tool in there. Twist, push and pull until they are moving free. Keep spraying penetrating oil to flush out the gunk and grime that is in there.
Then,
-Push the lines together
-While holding them pushed together insert the tool
-Wiggle tool and rotate while holding lines pushed together
-Pull lines apart
There is a spring in there that has to go over a lip. If the lines aren't pushed together it doesn't have room in the fitting to fully go over the lip. Also all the crud that gets built up in there takes up the space the spring need to clear the lip.
Edit:
Connector has a taper. Arrow shows widest part. Push together so spring it located in the widest part. Then insert tool. That way the spring has room to clear the lip.
Then,
-Push the lines together
-While holding them pushed together insert the tool
-Wiggle tool and rotate while holding lines pushed together
-Pull lines apart
There is a spring in there that has to go over a lip. If the lines aren't pushed together it doesn't have room in the fitting to fully go over the lip. Also all the crud that gets built up in there takes up the space the spring need to clear the lip.
Edit:
Connector has a taper. Arrow shows widest part. Push together so spring it located in the widest part. Then insert tool. That way the spring has room to clear the lip.
Last edited:
18¾" from the passenger head to the radiator support.
:: don't mind me. Just taking notes for future reference ::
:: don't mind me. Just taking notes for future reference ::
Soooooo.......does your passenger's head fit in that space?
Did I miss something?
Dammit! If that radiator support were 19 inches away, I wouldn't have hit my head on it! 
I want pic of thatDammit! If that radiator support were 19 inches away, I wouldn't have hit my head on it!
I want pic of that
I would tell you to buy a Tesla but they don't have radiator supports.
Originally, I wasn't planning on pulling it. But it appears I had a brake leak at some point.
Which has rendered certain things garbage and in need of repairs.
gkomo
now i can hopefully expect to receive the shaft
Weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeell Heeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeell
Ya done put ur pecker innit neow.
Ya done put ur pecker innit neow.
Not really. It already has a cam. I don't feel like spending the money on heads/rockers, I have a Cobra intake and long tubes for it. Gonna 1000%, seal up any potential leaks, so new oil pan gasket and bolts, new valve covers /gaskets/locking bolts.
The big thing is that the booster is so rusty at the bottom from the brake fluid that it's probably garbage, which means might as well hydroboost the brakes. All the brake lines are coming out and getting replaced with the ABS install.
Since I'm in there I'm going to do some welding of the Swiss cheese on the strut towers and repaint everything. Got some wiring to fix and extend since I want to tuck all the EGR stuff with the charcoal can in the passenger fender.
This is the last time I want to
with this level. Do it right once. And I'm in no rush. It'll take however long it takes.
Oh. And I had ALL the power steering leaks. Every line was loose or leaking.
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