Engine Probably Going To Get Flagged But Need Help On Engine Build

It looks like that sway bar is getting soaked...oil blowing back across the bottom of the oil pan. Seems like you need the front crank seal replaced. Get some engine bright or a couple cans of wearever brakekleen (advance auto). Pull the car up on ramps and clean the old oil off. Around here I go to the local self car wash. Spray engine degreaser and high pressure rinse at off. Everything can get wet except the distributor cap (put a plastic bag on it ). That way when clean you can clearly see where your leak is.

Southport2014 said:

I really just want a street beast

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You don't need 400 HP for a good running street car. With 5 speed and 3.55 rear gears, 275-300 RWHP will have enough power that it will be all to easy to get sideways in the road.

See my first post with the little cartoon guy "How can I help you" Check out the paragraphs Hot street and Street/strip.

On a budget? do the junkyard upgrade...

Gears - 87-88 T-Bird Turbo Coupe rear axle - disc brakes and 3.55 or 3.73 gears in one package for $125-$300. Add another $100-$200 or so to complete the brake upgrade.

94-95 Mustang GT MAF - $40-$100. It is 70 MM instead of the stock 55 MM on regular stangs built prior to 94. It uses a slip on duct on the side that goes to the throttle body and a 4 bolt flange on the other. You need a flange adapter to fit the stock slip on air ducting that goes to the air box. Wiring plugs right in with no changes. *1 *2

95-97 Ford Explorer intake manifold & throttle body $150-$300. The intake manifold flows 220 CFM +, much better than stock. Throttle body is 65 MM, bigger than the 60 MM on stock stangs. I got a 96 with EGR passages that match the stock setup, so my smog gear works just like factory. You’ll need a 65 MM EGR spacer & new gaskets for $65-$90 so you have a place to mount the EGR & throttle linkage.

Explorer GT40 or GT 40P cylinder heads. The GT40 heads have 3 bars cast at the end of the head. GT 40 's will work with any header setup, they are found on the earlier model Explorers from 95 - 97 I believe. The GT 40P's are found on 98-2001 model cars and have 4 bars cast into the end of the cylinder head.. They need aftermarket headers designed to clear the angled spark plugs.
Whatever you GT40 heads get, plan to replace the valve springs replaced with good quality aftermarket springs from someplace like Crane Cams or Competition Cams.

3G alternator from 94-95 Mustangs or other Ford. $20-$120. A must have to make the electrical system work like it should or if you have an electric fan. You’ll need a 4 gauge power wire and a 125-135 amp fuse to go with it about $15- $30.

Lincoln MK VIII electric fan -$40-$160. Free up some HP by not having to drive the stock fan. The 3G alternator upgrade is a must have prerequisite before you do the MK VIII fan. You won’t have enough electrical power if you don’t do the 3G upgrade.

Aluminum driveshaft: (courtesy of shawn13) It needs to be from a 92-93-94 Aerostar AWD. It measures 45 ½” center of the front U-joint to center of the rear U-joint. You will need the U-joint, part #PUJ353 from NAPA. The Canadian NAPA pat number is 1-0134BF. It should bolt right up after the U-joint swap.

Note: This driveshaft is not an exact duplicate of the Ford Racing part. It is 3” in diameter while the Ford Racing part is 3.5” in diameter. There is no guarantee that the balance will be any better than the stock part.

Use a piece of string and wrap it around the driveshaft. Make a mark on the string where the ends overlap. Measure the length of the string:
On the 3" AeroStar driveshaft the string will be 9.42" or about 9 7/16" long.
On the Ford Racing 3.5" driveshaft the string will be 10.99" or about 11" long

*1.) Metal flange adapter Ford MAF Adapters - Air Filters - Kurtz Kustomz Motorsports, Inc. KKM Buy the TR70 for $40. Or spend some time on eBay looking for one that may fit.

*2.) MAF & sensor interchange
The 94-95 Mustang 5.0 MAF & sensor is also found on:
1995-94 Mustang 3.8L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Crown Victoria 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1995-94 Mustang, Mustang Cobra 5.0L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Town Car 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Grand Marquis 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
Evidently the –A1A, -A2A, AA, etc. on the end of the part number is a minor variant that did not change the operating specs. You should be able to ignore it and have everything work good.

You also already have the Explorer intake (same as cobra).

You can see the runners look staggered, if I'm not mistaken the stock intake has the runners in a line. The Explorer intake is a very good street intake it flows enough air to make power but it's long round runners also produce torque. The gt40 family of intakes is what every aftermarket intake is compared against.

That's an explorer intake. Check the heads of there are 3 or 4 bars cast into the front you already have an explorer top end.

get rid of that cone filter, You are suckiing in hot engine air and fan wash air. Replace it with either the stock CAI and a K&N panel filter or if you want it to look better an aftermarket fenderwell CAI.

I'm late to this party! Great advise already given. My present project is to get 400+fwhp out of a fuel injected 302(350rwhp). To give the op my perspective you're not going to get there with a 3000$ budget. You CAN rebuild the current bottom end(rings,bearings,gaskets,etc) and add a few boltons for that price. It looks like you already have an explorer intake and possibly an entire motor. That's great! That would mean you already have some fairly descent topend parts to work with. Overhaul the shortblock,heads(with some new seals,guides,springs,upgraded valvetrain,etc),a descent cam(tfs1,comp cams 270,etc) and all the incidentals and make a very healthy street motor. All without blowing your budget out of the water. This type of build has been done many times over and should make close to 325fwhp and last a long time. Also it would give you a ton of expierience in building/working on your car. I do recommend having someone experienced to help/teach along the way.