Problems

Travis95gt

New Member
Aug 30, 2004
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Hi there, I am brand new to this board I just bought a 95 GT. I sold my camaro and bought the stang, It has Gt40p heads, professional products intake, Long tube Mac headers, H Pipe etc... 19lb injectors and different MAF. I changed the plugs wires and coil and it runs like **** sometimes still. SOmetimes you can go to leave at a light and let the clutch out and it wont rev you can put it right to the floor and it wont rev till you take a load off of it rev it up then let it out. But sometimes it will bog around 2000 and if you hold it wide open it will clean up some what but not 100%. Sometimes the car also just rips but not very often. It also seems like it has a hard time climbing to 5800rpm like it is working very hard. It has 4:10 gears etc...

Thanks
Any help is great.
Travis.
 
Its a 5speed. I can hear an exhaust tick could that be the culprate ? what should the fuel pressure be set at and what do you do to set it ?? As well would and intak leak cause that ? I think there is a possiblity of an intake leak betweent he upper and lower but nto sure.
 
Travis95gt said:
Its a 5speed. I can hear an exhaust tick could that be the culprate ? what should the fuel pressure be set at and what do you do to set it ?? As well would and intak leak cause that ? I think there is a possiblity of an intake leak betweent he upper and lower but nto sure.

if exhaust is ticking, then you have a good chance of a leak

if the intake is leaking between the U and L, then you might not even be able to hold an idle. Your car should feel reaaaaal doggish.

fuel pressure is set at 42. to set it, you need a FPR and guage
 
17yrOldStanger said:
if exhaust is ticking, then you have a good chance of a leak
I third that conclusion about the tick if your sure it's from the exhaust. Otherwise if it's from the engine then it could be a lifter or something else maybe in the valvetrain.

I had the same thing happen to me though. Some days run good and then other days run like utter ****. Check the MAF sensor my friend. Hesitation and sputtering are cause by incorrect air signals being sent to the computer. The computer in turn gives incorrect fuel amounts and timing to the injectors. I changed the MAF and adjusting the timing and I'm good now. :nice: Does the CEL come on and if so is it on all the time or come and go?
 
As far as the symptoms everyones on the right track. But nobody mentioned that you dont make any power at 5800 rpm. Those heads with a stock cam (if you have a stock cam) probably makes peak power at around 4300ish. Our cars from the factory made peak power at 4100 rpm. That almost stock setup isnt very high winding, I would recommend shifting at 4500 rpms and give the valvetrain a bit of extral life while ytour at it.
 
As far as the revving problem i would say the valve springs are probably the culprit. Out stock valve springs suck, and wear out easily with high rpm shifts. If the guy before you modded it he probably beat on it a little. My car was mint but after 25k of 6,000 rpm shifts i had terrible vavle float which made it reallly bad in the upper rpms.
 
squall9393 said:
I third that conclusion about the tick if your sure it's from the exhaust. Otherwise if it's from the engine then it could be a lifter or something else maybe in the valvetrain.

I had the same thing happen to me though. Some days run good and then other days run like utter ****. Check the MAF sensor my friend. Hesitation and sputtering are cause by incorrect air signals being sent to the computer. The computer in turn gives incorrect fuel amounts and timing to the injectors. I changed the MAF and adjusting the timing and I'm good now. :nice: Does the CEL come on and if so is it on all the time or come and go?


The check engine light does come on and off. As well I have a adjustable fuel pressure regulator. just wanted to know if I need to unhook a vacum line to it like on my camaro.

Thanks for all the help
Travis.
 
OMG dude. You've totally got my MAF problem. See if Auto Zone won't let you swap it there to see if it's culprit before you buy it. If not there's always refund cuz the part "didn't fit" :D The computer is guessing what's the right air/fuel mixture and the variable signals turn the light off/on.
 
squall9393 said:
OMG dude. You've totally got my MAF problem. See if Auto Zone won't let you swap it there to see if it's culprit before you buy it. If not there's always refund cuz the part "didn't fit" :D The computer is guessing what's the right air/fuel mixture and the variable signals turn the light off/on.


The check engine light goes on and off while driving. NOt flashing but comes on for a bit then goes off for a bit. I have a 75mm Mass air meter you think it could be toast ?
 
Pull your codes.... just because the CEL light goes off, doesn't mean the codes go away.

Mine goes on and off if I leave my fuel pressure too high from spraying. I bet you are running rich.... pull the codes and you'll know.
 
gcomfx.com said:
Pull your codes.... just because the CEL light goes off, doesn't mean the codes go away.

Mine goes on and off if I leave my fuel pressure too high from spraying. I bet you are running rich.... pull the codes and you'll know.
:stupid: Why play the guessing game and just replace parts and hope it fixes the problem. Pull codes and know for sure.
 
Are you spraying though? Variable fuel pressure under a normal condition isn't good and is caused by something not intended. I'm sure he's not getting this by spraying or else he wouldn't be baffled and asking what's up. My car runs rich most of the time but doesn't through codes. Throwing codes constantly isn't a normal thing. Throwing codes when driving normally should by investigated. Somebody wanna suggest a starting point for him? I said the MAF sensor. Travis can you pull some codes for us under "normal" driving conditions.