Procharger system

[hotmustang331]

The standard large capacity return style pumps are powered by a constant and consistent voltage level in order to maintain maximum flow and pressure, under wide open capacity at all times in order to provide a constant and steady fuel supply to the regulator. Their voltage and flow rates remain the same at all times, since excess fuel is managed by re-routing it back into the tank.

Non-return style pumps are variable voltage units and supply fuel based on whatever is read by the electronic fuel pressure sensor and sent by the ECU in order to keep a constant and required supply. Under different loads, fuel demand varies and voltage to the pump will increase and decrease accordingly to demand.

Long story short, the non-return style pumps are built to perform at varying rates, where the return units are not. The constant on and off cycling of a return style pump when trying to fulfill the demands of the non return style system not only shortens its life span, but since the return style pumps are built to perform under wide open, high voltage, high capacity levels, they're less efficient and more inconsistent when under variable voltage conditions. Their pulse width is tougher to tune for than a variable voltage units as a result.

Thanks GB . SO its the on/off that kills the pump, that wasnt designed for it. Are you 100% sure the EEC completely cuts power to the pump?

 

[Rob_03Cobra]

WOW no doubt you have a Rich Condition there, I would say your Diablo is tuned for a 90mm Maf (and not the stock Maf), BUT you said you tried the stock tune ? But you also tried the stock tune with the 42's ; o )

Do you know exactly what the Diablo tune is tuned for ?
Procharger + 42's + Stock Maf ?
Procharger + 42's + 90mm ?
OR COULD IT BE Procharger + Stock Inj's + Stock Maf ? (24's + 80mm)
That would explain your problem.

I have experience with that and had much talk on this matter with my tuner when I still had the Lightning. I had a bad tune once and in order to drive it I threw an old Chip I had in it to get it to the tuner. The old chip was for the 42lb injectors and I had 60's at the time, THE TRUCK RAN PIG RICH. When I questions him on why he explained that if the tune is for smaller injectors then it's pulsing them A LOT MORE in order to get the needed fuel, it only knows to pulse the injectors based on the size YOU TELL the computer it has. Hence if you put in 42lb Injectors but your tune is for 24's, you would run pig pig rich

I still think it's Maf or Vacum Related, btw your Surge Valve could be in backwards too, MINE RUNS TOTALLY DIFFERANT IF I SWITCH MINE AROUND

I would do this:

First make sure the Rubber Ell going into the Throttle Body is not pushing the PCV Valve out of the Grommet, (it's directly under the ell and mine use to do that)

Then Swap the Surge Valve around, also check the adjustment on it.
Take it off and make sure it closes completely, then suck it and have someone look at it to make sure it opens all the way. Also make sure it opens and closes easily when you do it manually with the linkage on the side. If it's adjusted wrong it will give you all kinds of trouble (been there done that too)
There should only be about 1/8" of thread showing on top of the lock down nut on the top of it. You'll see the stem has a allen head on it. According to Procharger on the Phone Thursday (as said I've been there) you should only have 1/8" of thread showing, I should mention with mine at 1/8" it surges and I found mine has to be out more than that. I also found if it's out too much it will surge there too.

TRY TURNING THE MAF TO A DIFFERANT POSITION

If all else fails it takes all of 15-20 minutes to swap out the injectors, maybe it's not tuned for 42's ??? I drove mine a long time with the factory injectors and it was fine,
just dont kill it.

 

[slvrstang46]

Thanks for the input Rob_99GT when i get out of work im going to switch the injectors back and see if it runs better. At least untill i can get it tuned. Is your surge valve closer to the charger inlet tube because that is where mine is located and as for the surge valve working it does, I checked it out before I installed it on the car.

 

[Rob_03Cobra]

Hard to see my Surge Valve in this Picture But it's right underneath the Procharger (you can see the linkage there)

Mine came with that 90 degree "radiator like hose" you see that comes off the Procharger Intake Tube. I have the Surge Valve right on that and then they gave me a longer Flexible ProCharger radiator like hose I cut to lg to get me to the outlet pipe of the Procharger

GOOD LUCK BRO

 

[Gearbanger 101]

Thanks GB . SO its the on/off that kills the pump, that wasnt designed for it. Are you 100% sure the EEC completely cuts power to the pump?

I really can't say for sure. I would imagine the EEC would supply whatever necessary voltage is needed in order to meet fuel demands. I could see it cutting power completely for momentary instances uncer circumstances where you're going from a WOT run, to backing off the throttle completely in order to maintain the correct fuel pressure, but I honestly can't say for certain. What I've written is basically just regurgitation of other info I'd collected from other sources on the subject. My personal experience with returnless fuel systems is limited. SVT Tech might a bit more insight and some personal experience to relay?

 

[hotmustang331]

Thanks...im curious if it kills power or not..that would really explain the reported (but rare) failures.
Although I still think that heat is a big issue with both and definatly isnt helping anything.

In the SVT focus pumps case, it pulls ALOT of volts and with a BAP will overload the stock fuse...even stock SVT focus cars have failures. Again the pump probably produces alot of heat...IMHO its very important that you drill holes in the basket with this pump and run it @ 1/2 tank and fuller.

 

[Rob_03Cobra]

In the SVT focus pumps case, it pulls ALOT of volts and with a BAP will overload the stock fuse...even stock SVT focus cars have failures. Again the pump probably produces alot of heat...IMHO its very important that you drill holes in the basket with this pump and run it @ 1/2 tank and fuller.

Let the records show mine came with a Walbro 255 but I went out and bought a SVT Focus Pump and installed that instead. I also DID NOT use the SVT Focus basket and instead used the stock Basket and yes it was drilled


My Tuner has been Racing and Tuning Mustangs and Lightings for decades, he told me the exact same thing about the Walbro's burning out. We all used them on the L's but I can tell you from personal experience A LOT OF US burnt many a pump out. I had 2 Walbro 255's (GSS 342 I think) the guy that bought mine picked it up here in LI NY and drove straight to TX 2 days straight. He sarted burning Fuel Pump Fuses @ 900 miles into the trip and then Burnt one of the Pumps out as he made it home to TX.

I believe as Hot Mustang just said it's all about heat. Around town personally I dont think they're much in trouble, but get it on the open road and run it at 3000 - 3500 RPM steady for a few hours and especially if your low on fuel, and bye bye pump.....