ok I will start recording that.So... Start recording your vacuum when FP is normal and when it's not. Note the temp on the gauge too.
Also: See if you can rig up some way to reference your voltage at the fuel pump. Maybe at the FP relay under the pass seat?
Whatever that wire is you were talking about ,around the fuse... Fix that to eliminate it as a possibility.
the 94 95's have the fp relay under the seat?
Yes lolI keep forgetting this part. I think your is behind the kick panel near the EEC?
I do have a fluid filled pressure gauge screws in to the straighter location that I was thinking about trying and monitoring. Would yield the same diagnosis right?Have you checked your FP with anything besides the new guage? If not I'd go rent a mechanical guage from the parts store (or buy one). Screw it on the schrader valve and double check if it's actually low. Could be a fuel system problem, could also be a sending unit, wiring, or guage malfunction.
If the mechanical guage and new digital guage read the same them carry on. But I'd rule that out first.
https://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-injection-pump-tester-58760.html
When you were talking about the car going in closed loop after it warms up if the car is just sitting in the garage idling for however long that's the same thing as me driving it and it going in closed loop correct because I was going to probably after I check some other things today let it run for however long see if the pressure is going to drop.I keep forgetting this part. I think your is behind the kick panel near the EEC?
Gotcha. I'll probably driveIt will reach that stage idling in the driveway but it will take a bit longer.
Update-It will reach that stage idling in the driveway but it will take a bit longer.
After a few minutes a few pressure was 33 and vacuum -9.
At about 140° the fuel pressure was 32 and vacuum - 11
Okay just to point out I was checking the voltage while the car was running but not just I would have to see if I can get an alligator clip to clip the negative terminal to ground to be able to verify it with all of that stuff on or I could just turn everything on and then check again. But the voltage difference that you see is probably from using the safety clip to just pushing the prongs in the connector. By the way the voltage readings were with the car running because the only way you can check it when you just switch the car on as if you have someone to switch the car on for you because for my understanding you only get voltage for 2 seconds after the car is switched on at the inertiaSo, it looks like your fuel pressure is tracking with vacuum. I also don't see anything in your data that suggests a vacuum leak.
The voltage readings that you got, however, are suspect.
See if you can hook the volt meter up so that you can read it with the car running. Let the idle stabilize (doesn't matter at this point if it's hot or cold). Turn on all your accessories: Healights, interior lights, A/C, etc... and see if there is a voltage drop at the inertia switch/pump power feed.
Yes new and it's the high flowYeah, and it's important to get that reading while the car is running.
Remind me: Is the pump a new 255L?
I found this thread doing a little research earlier and it said something about indexing the fuel pressure regulator to boost and not vacuum I wonder if that's my issue.Yeah, and it's important to get that reading while the car is running.
Remind me: Is the pump a new 255L?
Got you. I'm going to call the tuner tomorrow maybe his explanation will explain a lot of things as to how he has it set up according to how or what he saw on the dyno and what the car was doing so maybe he has the computer tricked and hopefully he will bring some clarity in that I'm totally fineThat all depends on your tune and how it is setup.
On my KB setup, there is a pressurized manifold and an unpressurized manifold. There are two vacuum lines that come to a T and the one in the pressurized manifold has a check valve to keep the fuel regulator from seeing boost.
Most fuel regulators have no idea what to do with boost. There were not designed for it. In most cases, the EEC has no idea what the fuel pressure is. When the combo gets into boost, the tune resorts to pre-built air and fuel tables set up on the dyno, etc.
So... I'm not totally sure I follow what markolson is referring to about "Indexing" in the thread you posted.
That doesn't mean that somebody else here isn't more familiar. The KB kit [different] in a lot of ways though I do use an OEM FPR that has [zero clue] what a boost reference is.
The vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator is on the if you go back to some post maybe last week or so there was a picture I showed where there's a screw in Port thing that has three ports that gets vacuum. The fuel pressure regulator is going to one of those ports. The only thing that's going to the intake manifold is the bypass valve for the supercharger coming off of the dischargeI'm thinking back to things you said about your setup.
The vacuum line to your FPR should be attached to a vacuum source [before] the blower and not to your intake manifold where it will see boost.
Remind me where yours is connected again?
I'm thinking back to things you said about your setup.
The vacuum line to your FPR should be attached to a vacuum source [before] the blower and not to your intake manifold where it will see boost.
Remind me where yours is connected again?
Ar one of these spotsI'm thinking back to things you said about your setup.
The vacuum line to your FPR should be attached to a vacuum source [before] the blower and not to your intake manifold where it will see boost.
Remind me where yours is connected again?
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