Progress Thread Progress Thread- From6to8's 1994 Cobra Supercharger install
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The instructions said so and the heater tube the one there's so if you look at it right now on my car on a 95, I'm not sure about the foxes I don't know if it has the same heater tube assembly but one end is longer than the other one. The one that goes to the water pump is longer than the other one that houses the ECT sensor. That one needs to be trimmed three and a quarter inches and the other part of the tube is fine but the sensor will need to be relocated because it will interfere and likely hit the alternator when the alternator is moved.
They also send a 5/8 of an inch hose that will run from the firewall to the water pump unless you plan on not running heat I guess you don't have to use that hose. I'm thinking even when you trim that tube back some it will still be hard to get a hose on that end to go to the water pump so that's why they want you to run it or you can run it from the firewall and route it to the water pump
gkomo
now i can hopefully expect to receive the shaft
lol that's why i always try and any new question say for my 95I keep forgetting this is an SN
.I guess all of the 94 95 dudes are on the groups these days on fb vs the forums lol so I'm getting Fox guys who are constants here on the forum so I appreciate you guys ....
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lol just looked and the instructions and yeah they are specific to the 94-95.
gkomo
now i can hopefully expect to receive the shaft
Dumb question maybe but does the installation instructions tell you where to put the ECT? It seems like Vortech would have made it fairly clear. I know you mentioned some potential clearance issues with the ECT plug but can’t recall the exact reasoning.
no but it just has to go in a functional spot that's going to allow it to get accurate readings. Talking to my homie who's doing a 440 in his 94 and running a Holley intake/ect, he showed me what he did and I'll likely mimic that or something simillar. He bought a brass pipe fitting 3/8 npt female to 3/8 npt male adapter that screws into the intake. He also bought a and not sure what the name of the block is ( he sent me the youtube video:
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cD_y1ZWoE_I
where he bascially followed what this guy did. I haven't watched the full video yet but from my bud's pics it looks to be a block that has a male fitting that has 2 female spots. The male end screws into the 3/8 npt and up top get's the sensor. The other spot he put a nipple in and then the hose clamps to the nipple.
you still around man lol? I got the IAT sensor figured out but few more questions. Looking back at your pics here I saw you are running your ECT the same way I planned with Vortech's instruction of trimming the heater tube 3 1/4 " and running there 5/8" supplied hose from the firewall to the water pump. The ect will hit the back of alternator and also needs to be removed and relocated. Looks like you have the hose connected to the front of the tube still, did you trim it and still used the hose? More pics if you have would help.^I don't have any experience with the 94-95.
Looking at you pic i see how different they are. It's just got to go somewhere in that tube. Doesn't really matter too much where. I'd keep it as far away from the MAF as possible as a rule of thumb. Just not to disrupt its readings. But that's just a suggestion.
I've had mine three ways now.
First was with the entry kit. The elbow that it ships with actually has a bung you can use. I have no idea why it's not utilized. It just needs to be drilled out and a nipple threaded in.
I dont have picture of that. But I do have the elbow from the upgraded discharge pipe with bypass. The large bung on the bottom is for the bypass. The smaller one on top is threaded but sealed off. All you gotta do is drill ot out and put in a threaded hose barb there for your PCV inlet. The entry level kit was almost exactly the same except it didn't have the bypass bung.
Then the UPR. Its plastic and not great to thread into. I epoxyied several layers of thin plastic. Like a plywood construction of plastic/epoxy/plastic/epoxy and let dry to build up the thickness. Then I drilled it out and tapped it with a NPT tap.
The little silver canister is an oil seperator.
While I feel it would hold up, I really didn't like the "makeshift" bung. So i went with the Anderson Powerpipe I posted earlier and welded a bung in for the PCV let.
Then powdercoated it.
oh and also reading up on another thread on the corral where they list the supplied hose as 5/8 and just called vortech too. He said they don't have anyone call with questions so the supplied hose must work. But the barbed fitting on water pump that goes to the heater core is 3/4", not 5/8. So reading up on this other thread now to see what they ende up doing to.
I found it. So that thread was getting rid of the heater core tubes and he has no heat. Not a good example at all.
I not sure what your talking about. Must be the ECT is an interference with something on the 94-95?
My ECT is just mounted in the factory style tube. Mines a "cobra" style that doesn't have the coolant tubes for the EGR cooler. Other than that it's just an factory replacement. No cutting or trimming.
Looks like this
You might be overthinking this. Vortech has sold thousands of these kits. Just use what they send you. It'll work.
I have it figured out now how I'm going to do it and that tube you have from my research that is a fox tube. My 94 Cobra tube is not like that it has the ECT in the front. So from vortex instructions you have to cut the longest portion of the tube which is not the one that the ECT is in. The ECT has to be relocated as well because the sensor itself is going to be too long and it's going to hit the back of the alternator. So I'm just going to run an npt adapter that's going to actually it has three spots so one is going to house the sensor the other is going to house the other tube from the firewall so I can still have heat, and the other portion is screwing into where the tube screwed intoI not sure what your talking about. Must be the ECT is an interference with something on the 94-95?
My ECT is just mounted in the factory style tube. Mines a "cobra" style that doesn't have the coolant tubes for the EGR cooler. Other than that it's just an factory replacement. No cutting or trimming.
Looks like this
You might be overthinking this. Vortech has sold thousands of these kits. Just use what they send you. It'll work.
Just getting started on the prep for the SC install and the first thing is to verify what fuel pump I have in. I will call Walbro in the morning which it looks like I might have to reach out to TI automotive who is affiliate with them to speak with someone anyway. I will ask them about the part no. 13802-1B 4500270 Walbro 520. I took one out of the 95 GT and that car the previous owner ran nitrous and the car had some mods with a cam in it but the stock intake, unless they put the stock intake back on when they put the car up for sale ( I bought from a lot back in '16 and tried to get in touch with the PO a few times with no luck). The one that was in the 95 had a similiar number walbro on it as well and looked the same but the number before the 1B I believe was different and not sure it said 520 up above those numbers. I'd like to confirm exactly what pump that is because that'll determine rather I need to buy one.
So talking to vortech earlier I was told that with the complete kits they send a T rex pump and the walbro equivalent would be a gss392 which is the 255 high pressure. I forgot to ask them if the regular 255 would suffice but will call them back tomorrow. I would like to run the regular 255 as it is a direct replacement and I wouldn't have to do any mods. With the gss392 it looks like it's external so I'd have to make some changes correct? What will need to be done and remember my car is a 94.
@AeroCoupe @Noobz347
So talking to vortech earlier I was told that with the complete kits they send a T rex pump and the walbro equivalent would be a gss392 which is the 255 high pressure. I forgot to ask them if the regular 255 would suffice but will call them back tomorrow. I would like to run the regular 255 as it is a direct replacement and I wouldn't have to do any mods. With the gss392 it looks like it's external so I'd have to make some changes correct? What will need to be done and remember my car is a 94.
@AeroCoupe @Noobz347
adding here for reference : from the thread engine fuel pick up problems..........
The 255L HP pump is the only pump you need. The T-Rex is [not] for you. It designed to supply the pressures necessary from the volume fed from the stock 88LPH fuel pump to an FMU.
The T-Rex will be a restriction with the 255L HP.
The Boost-A-Pump is nothing more than a voltage regulator. You can adjust fuel volume from the in-tank pump and keep it at a saturated and regulated voltage (no spikes or drop-off).
yeah i forgot that the complete kit comes with an fmu which I won't need to run anyway and I got the tuner kit not the complete kit. It looks like the gss340 255 is a high pressure so not sure why Vortech told me earlier the gss392 is equivalent to the t rex that comes with the kit. So yes looks like I should be fine then .......
https://lmr.com/item/LRS-9350D-K/19...MIvPW80bS0kQMVmltHAR3sdjXuEAQYASABEgKSzPD_BwE
The 255L HP pump is the only pump you need. The T-Rex is [not] for you. It designed to supply the pressures necessary from the volume fed from the stock 88LPH fuel pump to an FMU.
The T-Rex will be a restriction with the 255L HP.
The Boost-A-Pump is nothing more than a voltage regulator. You can adjust fuel volume from the in-tank pump and keep it at a saturated and regulated voltage (no spikes or drop-off).
yeah i forgot that the complete kit comes with an fmu which I won't need to run anyway and I got the tuner kit not the complete kit. It looks like the gss340 255 is a high pressure so not sure why Vortech told me earlier the gss392 is equivalent to the t rex that comes with the kit. So yes looks like I should be fine then .......
https://lmr.com/item/LRS-9350D-K/19...MIvPW80bS0kQMVmltHAR3sdjXuEAQYASABEgKSzPD_BwE
Tomorrow I'm going to start on the gauge install and though I've ran a fuse tap before I can't remember exactly how it works as far as what size fuse to put in the tap. For instance if I'm using a 15 amp 12 volt switch source if I recall correctly I would run a 15 in one slot in what size in the other slot? I will be running the dual wideband boost gauge as well as an electric fuel pressure.
@Noobz347
@AeroCoupe
@Noobz347
@AeroCoupe
What is the current load of the gauge you are supporting?
What is the gauge of the feed wire to the fuse that you're tapping?
What is the gauge of the feed wire to the fuse that you're tapping?
Just got this off of Google I couldn't find anything on glow shift:
Key Power Requirements:
- Normal Operation: Around 1 to 1.5 amps per sensor. A dual gauge setup would draw between 2 and 3 amps total during constant use.
- Initial Startup (Inrush Current): The O2 sensor heater snaps on at startup, causing a temporary inrush of current that can be up to 3 amps per sensor. For a dual gauge system, the power source should be able to support a momentary load of around 6 amps to ensure proper function.
- Recommended Circuit Protection: Manufacturers like Innovate recommend connecting the gauge to a switched 12-volt power source and using a 5-amp fuse for each sensor/controller.
