Might be different software or something. It seems they both are pretty much a chiptune that is flashed to modify the stock ecu. My tuner uses his laptop to make changes as well
Progress Thread Progress Thread- From6to8's 95 GT/Saleen Supercharged 331 install
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I'm looking at a set of new FR 55's at a good price for this setup that I'm thinking about getting. It seems they will support 550-650 at the wheels. The guy selling says for the GT500 they are for they support 760 and those are stock on the 2020's. I spent between $435 and 450 for new Deats 60's. He's asking 240 but I might can get them for $200.
either price looks like a steal lol.Thoughts?
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This is what I asked google-
doing a supercharger add to my 95 mustang gt 331 stroker build street car which fuel injector is better to go with the ford racing 55 lb hr injectors or the 630cc - LS1 /LS6, Mustang GT, SVT Lightning 60 lb hr fuel injectors
For a supercharged 331 stroker street car, the 60 lb/hr (630cc) injectors are likely the better choice, providing a safer margin for higher horsepower (500–600+ HP) compared to 55 lb/hr, especially if running high boost or planning for E85. Ford Racing injectors are preferred for their reliable OEM data, which makes tuning a 1995 Mustang significantly easier.
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The main thing I'm wondering is if the single hole design of the 60's is as good as the dual cone of the 55? The price of $200-230-240 of the 55's is a lot better than the $450 ish of the 60's lol. That 450 ish is on black friday as well, regular price is $539 but they would give me military.
doing a supercharger add to my 95 mustang gt 331 stroker build street car which fuel injector is better to go with the ford racing 55 lb hr injectors or the 630cc - LS1 /LS6, Mustang GT, SVT Lightning 60 lb hr fuel injectors
For a supercharged 331 stroker street car, the 60 lb/hr (630cc) injectors are likely the better choice, providing a safer margin for higher horsepower (500–600+ HP) compared to 55 lb/hr, especially if running high boost or planning for E85. Ford Racing injectors are preferred for their reliable OEM data, which makes tuning a 1995 Mustang significantly easier.
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- Why 60 lb/hr (630cc): Offers better "overhead" for safety. Street cars often benefit from this capacity to avoid running the injectors at high duty cycles.
- Why Ford Racing/High-Quality: Avoid generic or knock-off injectors. Proper, reputable injectors (like those available at Lethal Performance) provide the exact data needed for your ECU.
- Compatibility: Ensure you select the correct connector type for your 1995 Mustang (likely EV1, but sometimes updated to USCar/EV6) and use adapters.
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The main thing I'm wondering is if the single hole design of the 60's is as good as the dual cone of the 55? The price of $200-230-240 of the 55's is a lot better than the $450 ish of the 60's lol. That 450 ish is on black friday as well, regular price is $539 but they would give me military.
This is the answer, right here.
If the 60s you are referring to are OEM or FMS, then they're fine. Same with the 55s.
Either one will deliver what you need for pump gas.
Deatschwerks 60's, the same ones I just put on the 94 with the vortech.
Called a performance shop near me and he basically said either will work fine but the FR at the much cheaper price will even probably work better overall with the stock ecu. My main question was the single hole of the '60s versus The duel of the 55s but it seems at a certain horsepower level and specially with boost, fuel atomization and everything kind of goes out the window so to speak. I'll go with the 55s more than likely if he accepts 200 especially
I ended up getting the 55's. As for an update on the engine build, about 3 weeks ago the builder was waiting on rods to come in. He did a big order with Scat and he said he knows they were going to put it All together to save on shipping and he will hmu with they come in.
I'm just brainstorming on how I should go about starting the new engine with the SC and also the exhaust so I have a few questions. I will have a tune to start the car as well well matter of fact I have a tune that will be the same as the car I just did with the exception of the tune is set for 60's and I will have 55's with this car. Will that tune likely be ok to fire up the car and break in the engine?
As for the exhaust, I can fasten the X to the headers and might be able to fasten the mufflers doubling up on hose clamps If I have to. I will have a 5 ish mile drive to the exhaust shop to get the exhaust done.
Firing up the fresh engine with the Vortech, should I leave the SC belt off initially for the break in and maybe even on the drive to the shop? If I have to creep to the shop I will of course taking my time anyway. I will have an A/F gauge on as well and if that tune doesn't allow the car to run fine, I'll trailer it to the tuner anyway after.
When I did the 94 I had to trailer it to him and also had to mail it back a few times for him to make a few tweaks to the startup fuel tables/enrichment.
Not sure I forgot anything but any other advice on the matter let me know.
I'm just brainstorming on how I should go about starting the new engine with the SC and also the exhaust so I have a few questions. I will have a tune to start the car as well well matter of fact I have a tune that will be the same as the car I just did with the exception of the tune is set for 60's and I will have 55's with this car. Will that tune likely be ok to fire up the car and break in the engine?
As for the exhaust, I can fasten the X to the headers and might be able to fasten the mufflers doubling up on hose clamps If I have to. I will have a 5 ish mile drive to the exhaust shop to get the exhaust done.
Firing up the fresh engine with the Vortech, should I leave the SC belt off initially for the break in and maybe even on the drive to the shop? If I have to creep to the shop I will of course taking my time anyway. I will have an A/F gauge on as well and if that tune doesn't allow the car to run fine, I'll trailer it to the tuner anyway after.
When I did the 94 I had to trailer it to him and also had to mail it back a few times for him to make a few tweaks to the startup fuel tables/enrichment.
Not sure I forgot anything but any other advice on the matter let me know.
Siemens Deka 80's. Done! Tuners love them and they are every bit as good as Ford injectors. All of the specs needed for the Dekas are readily available to enter into the tune. I've used Moates, SCT, Megasquirt and now Holley and never had an issues with the Dekas. They also have an excellent spray pattern.
You'll definitely need an accurate startup tune to avoid issues during break-in. Keep an eye on that AFR gauge and check the temp of each header primary at the head to assure that each cylinder is firing and getting up to temp. Personally, I'd tow it to the tuner and break the engine in on the dyno.
You'll definitely need an accurate startup tune to avoid issues during break-in. Keep an eye on that AFR gauge and check the temp of each header primary at the head to assure that each cylinder is firing and getting up to temp. Personally, I'd tow it to the tuner and break the engine in on the dyno.
I already got the 55s so I'm going to run them.
I might just end up doing that but I still got to get the exhaust done first so it might be trailer to the exhaust shop.
On second thought, I'd rather break it in home to make sure there are no other issues that need addressing prior to getting to the tuner.
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