Progress Thread Progress Thread kinda stalled- looking to get it back going again!

Mustang5L5 · Apr 17, 2023

Rdub6 said:
So, if you remember, I eliminated the starter solenoid and used a junction block and a regular relay.
Eliminating the black/orange, my new power wire from the alternator would just got that junction block, correct?

Yes. It just needs 12V to power the regulator.

If you cut the harness running across the radiator open, you'll find where the #10 wires splice to the wire to the regulator. You can just rewire all that so that you only have the single wire to the regulator and can eliminate the #10 wires completely.

Or just tape them up and tuck them

Rdub6 · Apr 17, 2023

Mustang5L5 said:
Yes. It just needs 12V to power the regulator.

If you cut the harness running across the radiator open, you'll find where the #10 wires splice to the wire to the regulator. You can just rewire all that so that you only have the single wire to the regulator and can eliminate the #10 wires completely.

Or just tape them up and tuck them

Thanks…… I was pretty sure that’s all I needed to do….. but sometimes need to ask and get confirmation.
I just rolled back the black and orange with original plug, taped it all up and zip tied it away in the fender well.
It’s an all in tact ‘86 harness, so I figured why cut it out if I can just hide it.

Rdub6 · Apr 17, 2023

All buttoned up. I found it pretty easy to remove 3 bolts, take the alternator bracket off the car to do the grinding/ clearance on that one spot, away from the car, and keep all the aluminum from spraying all over the engine bay. In all of the videos I’ve seen, nobody has done it that way.

My only other question would be, what is your take on the additional 4g ground from the block to chassis? I have no additional electrical components on this car. I’ve read a bunch voting both ways on this.

There is a good bit of extra wire length in this LMR. For now I left it, because once I decide to add the smooth engine bay panels, I’m not sure how I’ll run it.

Mustang5L5 · Apr 17, 2023

Remove the small braided strap and replace that with the 4g wire loop.

You don’t want too many grounds to avoid what is called a “ground loop”. One good solid ground is much better than many grounds.

AeroCoupe · Apr 17, 2023

You should have a 4 ga ground from the battery to the stud behind the battery that the ECU grounds to and another one from the battery to the block. On my Coupe there are grounds from battery to ECU ground, battery to block, and block the k-member with no ground loop issues. I ran the 4 ga 12V+ from the alternator to the battery, battery to the solenoid, and solenoid to mini starter.

If you have your battery in the trunk then you should be running a minimum of a 1/0 ga. 12V+ wire from the battery to the solenoid and 4 ga wire over to the alternator. The battery in the trunk should be grounded with a 1/0 wire. Some say the ground should go to the block but I have mine grounded in the trunk of my T-Bird with zero issues. The car does have full length subframes so that may help the grounding.

Good clean grounds are a must and I use dielectric grease after the connection is made instead of painting it. Keeps it from corroding and makes it a lot easier so service.

Rdub6 · Apr 17, 2023

Yeah, I did all new 4g battery wiring when I deleted the solenoid and tucked the wires away. I think I’ll be good if I get that braided strap swapped out.
Looks like you need to be a contortionist to get to that bolt on the back of the block though! I’ll see what I can do.

Edit: I got it swapped, but needed to use a washer on the firewall end. I’ll pick up the proper size ring terminal and swap it at some point. That’ll bother me.
Other than that, seems to run well….. charging at a steady 14.6 at idle.
One more job crossed off the list!

Rdub6 · Apr 18, 2023

Also got an email from MM today. They said their powder coater was backed up, causing the delay, and the strut tower brace should be shipping next week. Fingers crossed!

Rdub6 · May 3, 2023

Scored these on eBay. Wasn’t looking for them, but will help my interior a bit!

AeroCoupe · May 3, 2023

Did you get the strut tower brace?

Rdub6 · May 3, 2023

AeroCoupe said:
Did you get the strut tower brace?

Nope……. Still waiting.

TIGGER · May 3, 2023

Rdub6 said:
Scored these on eBay. Wasn’t looking for them, but will help my interior a bit!

Nice! Did you get the push pins with them? I just sold my last set of 4 but I think I may have a couple spare pins if you need them.

mikestang63 · May 4, 2023

fyi- the 6g alternator is a smaller case that will work without any grinding if you can find one.

AeroCoupe · May 4, 2023

What do you get the 6G off of so it is a bolt in?

Mustang5L5 · May 4, 2023

01-04 Mustang V6

They come on other vehicles but they are PCM controlled. I also believe they are 110A on the Mustang but don't quote me on that. or a basic fox with just an E-fan that is likely fine. Someone running big electric fuel pumps, electric water pump and other high demand electronics might want to stick with the 130A 3G.

https://www.electricalrebuilders.org/techlib/tech_articles/ford_6g_regulators.pdf

85GTStangGuy · May 4, 2023

Rdub6 said:
Scored these on eBay. Wasn’t looking for them, but will help my interior a bit!

Are those NOS ones or repops?

85GTStangGuy · May 4, 2023

TIGGER said:
Nice! Did you get the push pins with them? I just sold my last set of 4 but I think I may have a couple spare pins if you need them.

Fyi, I believe only the front bolt covers use the Christmas-tree style push pins for all years (79-93). The rear bolt covers use the Christmas-tree style push pins only on 1979 through 1986 models. On the 1987-1993 models, the rear bolt covers use a phillips-head rivet-style pin.

As seen here...

https://lmr.com/item/LRS-61748M-K/mustang-seat-track-bolt-cover-kit-79-98

AeroCoupe · May 4, 2023

The rear ones in my 93 Coupe may have been swapped out before I got the car but it has short black pan head screws.

Mustang5L5 · May 4, 2023

My '88 had pushpins....but it's been so long I couldn't tell you if i was the one that swapped it out.

TIGGER · May 4, 2023

85GTStangGuy said:
Fyi, I believe only the front bolt covers use the Christmas-tree style push pins for all years (79-93). The rear bolt covers use the Christmas-tree style push pins only on 1979 through 1986 models. On the 1987-1993 models, the rear bolt covers use a phillips-head rivet-style pin.

As seen here...

https://lmr.com/item/LRS-61748M-K/mustang-seat-track-bolt-cover-kit-79-98

My 89 has the pins front and back. Well not on the drivers side anymore as I am running seat brackets from an SN95. I think they changed to the phillips head in 91ish for the rears.

Progress Thread Progress Thread kinda stalled- looking to get it back going again!

Cheapskate207

The left one hangs a little lower

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues

Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes

Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues

Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues

Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues

AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes

Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues

TIGGER

mikestang63

AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

85GTStangGuy

85GTStangGuy

AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

TIGGER

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Progress Thread Progress Thread kinda stalled- looking to get it back going again!

The left one hangs a little lower

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

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