Progress Thread Darkfader's 93 Gt Progress - Back to work

[darkfader]

Hey gents,

Things began to pile up on me and I had to step away from the project for a while. I’ve got a renewed desire to get some work done on this thing so I put a wrench on a few bolts today.

I was able to square away pushrod length. 7.200” leaves a tiny mark in the dry erase marker dead center of the top of the valve stem. Also P-V clearance was on the money so I feel safe with this setup.

Then I disassembled everything to notch the cylinder skirts to clear the rod cap bolts. Should be plenty of room in there now. I’ll drop off the entire rotating assembly along with damper and flywheel for balancing tomorrow.

Cleaned and spritzed with WD40 and shrink wrapped while I wait on the parts to get back from balancing.

 

[2Blue2]

Block is looking good!

 

[limp]

Cut the welded nut off and weld a new one on. At least that’s what i’d do.

Weld a large washer on then weld a large nut on top of it..

 

[darkfader]

Weld a large washer on then weld a large nut on top of it..

I’m actually considering doing Scott Rod panels but I’d like to end up with my air filter in the fender so I’m still debating this part of the project. Honestly, that feels like so far away at this point, it’s sort of irrelevant at this stage in the game.

Regardless I’m pretty sure I’ll be smoothing some of the engine bay while I have it this far apart.

 

[Noobz347]

I’m actually considering doing Scott Rod panels but I’d like to end up with my air filter in the fender so I’m still debating this part of the project.

I have an alternative for you to consider and it may workout with your panels too:

1986 - 1993 5.0L Mustang Ram Air Box

1986 - 1993 5.0L Mustang Ram Air Box by March Performance offers clean design and proven strength.

marchperformance.com

and

Ram Air K&N Filter

March Performance provides premium pulleys and brackets for a variety of engine types, including Ford, Chevy, Chrysler and more. All v-belt and serpentine kits have multiple finish types available and are backed by our Life Time Warranty. Call 1.888.729.9070 for sales & technical support questions.

marchperformance.com

You get the accessibility of the filter and MAF still being in the engine bay without the hot engine bay air or fan wash.

 

[darkfader]

Eh. Long time fellas. A lot of life happened since my last post. I’m now in a position to make a big push on this build. The garage is spotless and organized and my bare block is under shrink wrap just begging to have its freshly balanced rotating assembly put in and let’s get this thing put back together.

I’m collecting some parts for the long block and just wanted to verify a few things with you guys who know way more than I do.

To recap, the block is the car’s original 302 bored .030” over and the rotating assembly is the Scat 331 stroker kit with Icon pistons. The cam was custom ground for this setup by Ed Curtis of FTI. Heads are trick flow 11R, 1.6 roller rockers, intake is the Holley Systemax 2. I’ll use the Holley Terminator X for engine management. Any further info needed, just ask.

Fist question is this,

Are 30lb injectors sufficient for this setup? I’ll probably end up doing the LMR fuel system because it looks super complete and would replace everything and it comes with the walbro 340 pump.

Second question is this, any guesstimates on HP/Tq with this? Close to 400 or am I way off?

And if the intake has a 72mm port do I go with 70mm throttle body and egr spacer?

Thanks as always and I look forward to posting a lot of updates over the next few months.

 

[nickyb]

You can go bigger on the injectors as your tuning with an aftermarket ecu.
Most combos like yours put down 400 ish.
70 or 75mm t.b. should work well.

 

[AeroCoupe]

My 331 is similar to yours and it put down 460ish fwhp on the engine dyno. I’m using 42 lb/hr injectors and started to run out of fuel on the chassis dyno. We bumped the fuel pressure up to 52 psi and got it where it needed to be. This was with the stock fuel pump hanger, Walbro 255 lph pump, stock fuel lines, stock injector rails, and an Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator. All of that with the exception of the fuel pump has since been replaced which helped a lot. I also had the injectors cleaned which they needed.

Induction is a cold air kit (filter in inner fender), 4” pipe from the filter to the MAF, 2000 GT 80mm MAF, 3-1/2” pipe from MAF to 70mm throttle body, Edelbrock RPM II upper and lower i takes with lower ported and 1” spacer. The heads are Edelbrock Performer RPM’s that have been ported and the cam is an Ed Curtis custom grind.

Compression is right at 11:1.

So with all of that I will tell you that the tuner said I needed an upgraded fuel system and better induction from the filter to the TB. At that time it was a BBK cold air kit and the 2000 GT MAF was adapted to it in a poor way. I’ve done all of this and have not had it retuned. It runs really well and I have a MSPnP Pro in the box so no more stock ECU with a chip. Will be awhile before that happens.

So to recap I think the 30’s will fall short as will a stock fuel system. At 80% duty and 43.5 psi you should look at 36’s to support 450 fwhp.

Take a hard look at your induction system up to the intake. My old one had a couple choke points as the 80mm MAF was showing almost pegged and the tuner could not believe it. Again, my ignorance there and that has since been corrected.

Good luck and what a build man!!!

 

[darkfader]

@AeroCoupe That was fantastic info, thank you for taking the time to reply. Extremely helpful. I had planned to eliminate the mass air sensor altogether with the termX. I wonder if I would benefit from an Anderson pipe? I was honestly hoping to avoid porting anything and I haven’t purchased the Holley intake yet, but that was in the plans when Mr. Curtis ground the cam. I’m afraid I let this project take too long.

 

[AeroCoupe]

Send an email to Tom Moss ("mosstpsa" at "sbcglobal.net"). He and his sone have ported hundreds if not thousands of intakes and know how to get them to flow correctly. He will let you know if any porting is even necessary. Typically they can all be cleaned up and port matched to the heads but depends on if you feel the gains are worth the cost.

 

[darkfader]

So a few parts came in, one of which was the ford performance oil pan kit with pick up and new dipstick etc. the oil pan doesn’t have a provision for the low oil level sensor. Thinking I’d like to keep that function. Somewhat disappointed. I suppose I can restore my old pan but was just thinking of saving time and having all new stuff at the same time. Oh well. Guess I have to make a decision on that.

Yanked the ecu and main harness today and washed down the bay again. Was surprised to see a factory amp under the passenger seat, I forgot some 93’s had those. Going to do some wire wheeling and get a coat or two of white in this engine bay.

 

[General karthief]

Never really looked but is the bung for the LOS like a bulkhead fitting, a two piece fitting that has a gasket on both sides or is it welded or cast (?) onto the pan?

 

[darkfader]

Never really looked but is the bung for the LOS like a bulkhead fitting, a two piece fitting that has a gasket on both sides or is it welded or cast (?) onto the pan?

I need to dig my old pan out but I believe it’s a threaded bung and the sensor has a large flange that a gasket goes under. I had ordered new sensor and gasket and I have them.

It’s not a huge deal to clean up my original pan. It’s in good shape, just grimy. I’ll media blast and powder coat it and not worry about the FP kit. It’ll get returned and I’ll have to source the pickup and other stuff individually. Ordering the kit was merely in the interest of saving some time.

 

[General karthief]

Ordering the kit was merely in the interest of saving some time.

BTDT

 

[darkfader]

Feels like I’m going backwards to go forward but I think I’ve got this front clip as ready for prep and paint as it’s going to get. I went ahead and dropped the K back out of it because it’ll just be easier to clean and sand and paint with it out of the way. I’m collecting supplies for paint and body right now. I think I have everything to build the engine too, so we should be ready for assembly there.

 

[darkfader]

Welp, went way backwards today in order to go forward the right way IMO. The wife and I spent yesterday and today really blowing this thing apart for painting. I refuse to put this brand new powerplant back in without making the bay look decent which lead to a color change which lead to jambs which lead to this. lol Lots of baggies with screws, lots of missing/wrong fasteners, lots of anxiety in my head at this point but I am promising myself I will get this project completed. I’ve given myself a year as of July 4.

I’ve got a new front bumper from LMR, I did the Cervini Cobra rear bumper and Saleen spoiler which are on site. New door mouldings are also in hand. All other ground effects are in decent usable shape, at least paint prep worthy. It’s going to be a lot of work. Here’s where we stand as of this evening.

 

[gkomo]

Nicely done! I enjoy reading these threads where you guys are going all out… really keeps the motivation going even for my smaller projects.

 

[Dontknowchit]

I am seriously lusting over the trick flow kit for the top end

Same brother
Like a brunette in a sundress on a tree swing.

 

[darkfader]

My step son is a state champion welder, nationally ranked and currently competing in the world competition, so I figured if anyone could tack a couple subframe connectors in, it would be him. Weld-through primer, fitted and welded. Chassis black rattle can and I’ll call that task completed.

 

[AeroCoupe]

Looks good so far. You may want to look at seal welding the connectors anywhere they are welded to the front and rear subframes or anywhere else. I only say this as it will be stronger and keep the corrosion out.