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project 94' gt cheap stang'

  • Thread starter Thread starter preacherman
  • Start date Start date Feb 19, 2011
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preacherman

Member
Feb 19, 2011
31
0
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casar, n.c.
Feb 19, 2011
#1
  • Feb 19, 2011
  • #1
hey fella's,
i'm new to the broad, sorta' new to the sn95's, and not so new to fast cars! I had a 72' ford tk as a teenager that would fly but it never really got finished. Got married, had kids and a house to look after. Now, it seems, by the good grace of God i have been given another shot at the whole fast car thing. I've wanted a newer model stang' since before i was married it just never seemed to work out...now, i have one. It's a 94' gt that i picked up for around 2 grand and is in pretty good shape. My reason for this thread is to show the car in progress and ask a few questions along the way. Any help would be greatly appreciated and opinions definately welcomed. So, here we go...i'll post some pics now and as i progress.

1.First off, i;m not sure what intake i have(see the pic below)...it looks like an eldebrock but has no name on it...ideas?

2. I need advice on the correct size and brand throttle body for my combo, here's the set up (stock heads, stock cam i think, 3.55 gears, 5 speed, 180 degree thermostat, aeromotive fuel set up, 1 5/8 equal length headers and 2 1/2 flowmaster exhaust no cats, fender well cold air kit, roller rockers, plus i have an 80mm mass air and 24lb injectors to install soon).

3. i would like to up grade the cam and heads later on...suggestions on the heads (e7te's with bigger valves and port work, gt40's, or just go with aftermarket...remember, it's more budget than all out h.p.)

so, i've already got the clear coat for a paint job...just need the e9 base. Working for a body shop should make the exterior cosmetics pretty simple. I was able to fix several odds and ends today on the car and just ordered lowering springs and window tint. A hood scoop, rims, and a few mechnical parts and project cheap stang' will be ready to tackle the street with style!

thanks for any input...have a great night!
View attachment 65528

View attachment 65529
 

Celeb

20+ Year Stangneter
Sep 8, 2002
736
13
59
Here and there
Feb 20, 2011
#2
  • Feb 20, 2011
  • #2
Welcome!

Intake looks like a Typhoon to me...
 

preacherman

Member
Feb 19, 2011
31
0
6
casar, n.c.
Feb 20, 2011
#3
  • Feb 20, 2011
  • #3
Celeb said:
Welcome!

Intake looks like a Typhoon to me...
Click to expand...

is that a good thing? forgive my ignorance!
 

cjrpony

Member
Jan 23, 2010
439
0
17
West Michigan
Feb 20, 2011
#4
  • Feb 20, 2011
  • #4
+1 on the Typhoon intake. It is a chinese made Edelbrock knockoff intake sold by Professional Products. Better than stock, but not as good as a real Eddy or Trick Flow intake.

Welcome to stangnet!
 
N

NinJa_FLiP

Member
Feb 6, 2010
80
0
6
NLV
Feb 20, 2011
#5
  • Feb 20, 2011
  • #5
in other words, that typhoon intake is great for ur budget build..
 

Venom351R

Founding Member
Apr 27, 2002
4,548
41
98
MAINE
Feb 20, 2011
#6
  • Feb 20, 2011
  • #6
yeah its good for a budget plus it was already on the car so it didn't cost you anything. As far as the heads dont bother with doing any work on the E7's they are just crap. Find a set of GT-40's they are not to expensive and are better then stock. As far as the Throttle body for what your doing with the car a 65MM will be just fine.

One word of advise just be sure you really want this to be a budget build before you start getting parts. Nothing worse then thinking you are all done then realizing you want more power so you have to do it all over again with much better parts. In that case you end up spending a lot more then what you would have if you just got the better parts from the start.
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
9,296
1,640
214
Acworth, GA
Feb 20, 2011
#7
  • Feb 20, 2011
  • #7
I love budget builds. Thumper Performance has some good stock heads worked over. He's claiming he has hit 300rwhp with them. I think that is a little high for a street car. Don't get too caught up in the cost of aftermarket aluminum heads, it's usually the nickel and dime stuff that gets you. It's all about budget. Let us know what kind of budget you have, and we'll try and help. Lots of guys on here doing budget builds.

Kurt
 

cjrpony

Member
Jan 23, 2010
439
0
17
West Michigan
Feb 20, 2011
#8
  • Feb 20, 2011
  • #8
Venom351R said:
One word of advise just be sure you really want this to be a budget build before you start getting parts. Nothing worse then thinking you are all done then realizing you want more power so you have to do it all over again with much better parts. In that case you end up spending a lot more then what you would have if you just got the better parts from the start.
Click to expand...

This is so true, the more power you get, the harder the HP bug bites

I have had a bunch of Mustangs over the years and due to wife and kids, was alway on a budget. So I built them up, a little at a time, mostly with good used parts from Ebay and Craigslist. I have not been screwed yet, just be careful and selective. Most of the time, when you choose to upgrade, you can resell the part for most or all of what you paid. Sometimes you even make money if you got a really good deal.

Just my .02 on budget parts.
 

preacherman

Member
Feb 19, 2011
31
0
6
casar, n.c.
Feb 20, 2011
#9
  • Feb 20, 2011
  • #9
thanks for the warm welcome and the responses on part selection. Hadn't thought about ebay and the used parts idea...thats a good one. I think i can lay hands on a set of gt40's or the p heads cheap. I think the gt40's have a bit bigger valves than the gt40p's right? If i did get either of those heads would i just reuse the stock valves if they were good or would 1.90/1.60's be worth the time and money? I can do all the port work and any machine work for the spring seats or screw in studs...i just can't do the valve up grade. Also, what cam size and brand would work...i wouldn't mind some rough idle but i still want it to be reasonably driveable. Plus, i think there can be a piston clearence issue with high lifts, right? As to the t/b...65mm was mentioned but would a 70mm be over kill...i think i know where i can get one cheap is why i ask. Also, can a 65mm be found and adapted from some other ford vehicle with out to much trouble...i kinda' have access to a bone yard and good prices, lol! Thanks again!
 

preacherman

Member
Feb 19, 2011
31
0
6
casar, n.c.
Feb 23, 2011
#10
  • Feb 23, 2011
  • #10
o.k...so i got a good many odd and ends fixed...now i'm think'n hard about some gt40ps and a trick flow stage 1!
 

Venom351R

Founding Member
Apr 27, 2002
4,548
41
98
MAINE
Feb 23, 2011
#11
  • Feb 23, 2011
  • #11
a 70MM TB would not be over kill
 

Dino Dino Bambino

15 Year Member
Jun 13, 2007
1,672
89
79
Cyprus
Feb 24, 2011
#12
  • Feb 24, 2011
  • #12
preacherman said:
1.First off, i;m not sure what intake i have(see the pic below)...it looks like an eldebrock but has no name on it...ideas?

2. I need advice on the correct size and brand throttle body for my combo, here's the set up (stock heads, stock cam i think, 3.55 gears, 5 speed, 180 degree thermostat, aeromotive fuel set up, 1 5/8 equal length headers and 2 1/2 flowmaster exhaust no cats, fender well cold air kit, roller rockers, plus i have an 80mm mass air and 24lb injectors to install soon).

3. i would like to up grade the cam and heads later on...suggestions on the heads (e7te's with bigger valves and port work, gt40's, or just go with aftermarket...remember, it's more budget than all out h.p.)
Click to expand...


1. As the others have said, it's a Professional Products Typhoon intake which is a Chinese copy of the older generation Edelbrock Performer RPM.

2. Go for a 70mm TB. It'll match the opening in your upper intake.

3. Normally I'd say GT40P heads for a budget build but since you already have shorty headers, go for a cheap pair of GT40's from ebay and do a home port job on them. As for cams, I suggest the CompCams XE264HR-14 if you have 1.6 ratio rockers or the XE264HR-12 if you have 1.7's.
 

preacherman

Member
Feb 19, 2011
31
0
6
casar, n.c.
Feb 27, 2011
#13
  • Feb 27, 2011
  • #13
thanks for all the replies. Here is a quick update on the car...scored a set of gt40p's, they'll be going out for a valve job monday then back here for port/polish, new valve seals, new springs and a clean up. I installed the 1" drop kit and man what a difference...car rides, drives, and looks so much better now...i'll do an alighnment tuesday. New headlights (1 piece came)...i smoked them and the tail lights and installed the pair. Love the smoked look, hate the fitment of those cheap h/l i bought. In this case i def. got what i payed for...so after 2 hrs of grinding and beating and breaking the h/l's were in...turned them on and the stockers were brighter. Rather than loose my temper and pick up a hammer like i used to...i just ebayed another set ($130 this time)...i hope they fit! Oh yeah...got the 69' boss scoop installed...it actually looks pretty good. Fixed the hood and trunk lights, radio (no wander it wouldn't work...they had it hooked to the wrong wires), and got rid of a few exhaust rattles. Now all i'm waiting on is the Keyless entry, glow gauges, throttle body, and cam (plus all the related items to swap the heads and cam). Well, there you have it...i'll post up some pics when the alighnment is done. Suggestions are still welcome.
 

Black Stampede

Founding Member
Sep 3, 2002
1,811
2
39
Grand Rapids, MI
Feb 27, 2011
#14
  • Feb 27, 2011
  • #14
Nice score on the p's. A buddy of mine ran p's, trick flow stage 1 cam, and a trick flow intake and ran 13.0 at the track. Makes a great budget combo.
 

Zero Signal

Active Member
Feb 24, 2003
2,633
2
46
Tucson, AZ
Feb 27, 2011
#15
  • Feb 27, 2011
  • #15
It feel like you're getting too far ahead of yourself on the engine. I would give the engine a VERY thorough checkup before spending any money on mods. Check the compression, do a good leakdown test, check the coolant for oil and oil for coolant. Make sure the PCV is working (it already isn't since you have a breather cap), check the vacuum & fuel system, do a cylinder balance test, etc. Then do a complete tuneup with new plugs, wires, cap & rotor, oil change and injector cleaner.

How does it idle? If everything works properly and it has the original cam, you shouldn't even feel it idling. How is the power? Will it spin the tires in 2nd? If not, it needs attention before mods.

From looking at your engine pics, the previous owner(s) did something with it which makes me think it wasn't necessarily neglected, but it was probably thrashed pretty good.

Once you know it's in tip-top shape. Go to town on the mods. The GT40Ps are a good place to start and doing that will get you VERY familiar with your engine. Don't bother with the TB or anything until you do the heads and cam. They won't net you much bang for the buck until the heads/cam are done. Besides, with the each major mod comes potential issues and if you throw all those things in there at once, it can become difficult to isolate them.

Otherwise, with what you paid so far, you're off to a pretty awesome start if you ask me.
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
9,296
1,640
214
Acworth, GA
Feb 27, 2011
#16
  • Feb 27, 2011
  • #16
A breather cap won't keep the PCV valve from working. Air goes into the crankcase through the breather cap, and out of the crankcase through the PCV valve.

Kurt
 

preacherman

Member
Feb 19, 2011
31
0
6
casar, n.c.
Feb 27, 2011
#17
  • Feb 27, 2011
  • #17
Black Stampede said:
Nice score on the p's. A buddy of mine ran p's, trick flow stage 1 cam, and a trick flow intake and ran 13.0 at the track. Makes a great budget combo.
Click to expand...

thanks man, i'm looking foward to the out come on this thing!
 

preacherman

Member
Feb 19, 2011
31
0
6
casar, n.c.
Feb 27, 2011
#18
  • Feb 27, 2011
  • #18
Zero Signal said:
It feel like you're getting too far ahead of yourself on the engine. I would give the engine a VERY thorough checkup before spending any money on mods. Check the compression, do a good leakdown test, check the coolant for oil and oil for coolant. Make sure the PCV is working (it already isn't since you have a breather cap), check the vacuum & fuel system, do a cylinder balance test, etc. Then do a complete tuneup with new plugs, wires, cap & rotor, oil change and injector cleaner.

How does it idle? If everything works properly and it has the original cam, you shouldn't even feel it idling. How is the power? Will it spin the tires in 2nd? If not, it needs attention before mods.

From looking at your engine pics, the previous owner(s) did something with it which makes me think it wasn't necessarily neglected, but it was probably thrashed pretty good.

Once you know it's in tip-top shape. Go to town on the mods. The GT40Ps are a good place to start and doing that will get you VERY familiar with your engine. Don't bother with the TB or anything until you do the heads and cam. They won't net you much bang for the buck until the heads/cam are done. Besides, with the each major mod comes potential issues and if you throw all those things in there at once, it can become difficult to isolate them.

Otherwise, with what you paid so far, you're off to a pretty awesome start if you ask me.
Click to expand...

thanks...i would say the engine is in pretty good shape, good compression, power and oil pressure. no smoke or rattles other than the cheap wore out rocker arms. It will spin the tires in second but i;m not sure after that...last time i tired i was moving pretty quick with the tires spinning in second and didn't have the guts to try third..lol! As far as the tune up, i wanted to do that when we did the heads and cam...although you make a very good point as to isolating any problems when changing that much at one time. And your right about the thrashing i think...from what i've found on the car, somebody had it set up to race at one time or the other (i.e. the noisy locker type differential that makes the tires shutter at sharp low speed turns.)
on the pvc..i saw the same thing you did but they have the hose ran to a port in the valley part of the lower intake (never seen that on a 5.0) then back up to the corrct location on the upper. it reminds me of an older setup i have seen on diesels. who knows...as long as it works.
 

Zero Signal

Active Member
Feb 24, 2003
2,633
2
46
Tucson, AZ
Feb 27, 2011
#19
  • Feb 27, 2011
  • #19
Actually, Kurt is right about the PVC thing. I was really getting at the un-metered air issue which is totally different than what I ended up saying. Anyhoo, if you really feel the engine is up to par, then my opinion still stands about doing the heads first. Just be picky about used heads if you go GT40 or P. I bought some GT40s awhile back and spent way too much money rebuilding them because they turned out to have badly worn guides.

EDIT: Nevermind, it looks like you already found some. Make sure the builder checks the guides (I'm sure he will anyway).

If you are not looking for bigger valves, you might want to do the porting before the valve job so you don't scuff up the new valve surfaces.
 

preacherman

Member
Feb 19, 2011
31
0
6
casar, n.c.
Mar 3, 2011
#20
  • Mar 3, 2011
  • #20
o.k....so the gt4os are back and ready for port work (hopefully saturday). A bunch of go fast stuff came this past week to compliment those heads and i'm going tomorrow evening to pick up the cobra r's and cam/rockers! I'm like a kid in a candy shop...wow! Also, got the springs on and alignment done..the alignment was a woo...wooo! You'd think they'd put adjustment on these things like the old style chevy a-arms...oh well, nothing alittle slotting and welding couldn't fix! I hope to get some pics up saturday.
 
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