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Electrical Proper negative ground location

  • Thread starter Thread starter sav22rem22
  • Start date Start date Feb 6, 2021
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sav22rem22

5 Year Member
Feb 6, 2020
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Feb 6, 2021
#1
  • Feb 6, 2021
  • #1
So around 9 months ago I put a new negative and positive batter cable set on as my old ones were garbage and sometimes my car wouldn’t even turn over. They completely fixed the issue but I’m wondering about the correct location for the negative ground. The first picture is where I just relocated it to (it’s where LMR shows putting it) and the second picture is where I’ve had it for 9 months.


I did make sure that the new location was all bare and shiny metal before hand and cleaned it up really nice. Does anyone know which one is actually correct?
 

Wayne Waldrep

Before I post a pic, do you have one of yours?
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#2
  • Feb 6, 2021
  • #2
The top one is correct.
 

alutwon

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#3
  • Feb 6, 2021
  • #3
I think its fine where you have it. Any where on the block should be fine but heres a diagram i found
 

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  • 8989958829c1455ccf30abcd0f41b425.webp
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Wayne Waldrep

Before I post a pic, do you have one of yours?
20+ Year Stangneter
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Feb 6, 2021
#4
  • Feb 6, 2021
  • #4
alutwon said:
I think its fine where you have it. Any where on the block should be fine but heres a diagram i found
Click to expand...
That's the other side but good info.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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#5
  • Feb 6, 2021
  • #5
That cable looks kinda small.
I agree with the first picture placement.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
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#6
  • Feb 7, 2021
  • #6
Top is factory correct.
 
Last edited: Feb 7, 2021
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KRUISR

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Here is where mine was when I did a full disassembly on the factory (untouched) engine 6 years ago after I picked my car up. If year matters, 1990 GT
 

Wayne Waldrep

Before I post a pic, do you have one of yours?
20+ Year Stangneter
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#8
  • Feb 7, 2021
  • #8
KRUISR said:


Here is where mine was when I did a full disassembly on the factory (untouched) engine 6 years ago after I picked my car up. If year matters, 1990 GT
Click to expand...
Not going to start a feud but that's not the factory location.
 

KRUISR

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#9
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Not starting a feud at all, but let me point out a couple observations.

Putting the cable where it is in my pic, the ground cable has an easy straight path to the battery area.

Installing ground on the starter cable bracket mount (the upper one in the OPs pic and mine) the ground cable needs to bend 90 degrees to point toward battery.

Think about which way the factory would orient a cable with a flat end connector (like the ground is).

I the position the OP has it, his connector is bent 90 degrees up to head toward battery.

Just my observations.
 

Wayne Waldrep

Before I post a pic, do you have one of yours?
20+ Year Stangneter
Apr 14, 2003
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659
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Feb 7, 2021
#10
  • Feb 7, 2021
  • #10
KRUISR said:
Not starting a feud at all, but let me point out a couple observations.

Putting the cable where it is in my pic, the ground cable has an easy straight path to the battery area.

Installing ground on the starter cable bracket mount (the upper one in the OPs pic and mine) the ground cable needs to bend 90 degrees to point toward battery.

Think about which way the factory would orient a cable with a flat end connector (like the ground is).

I the position the OP has it, his connector is bent 90 degrees up to head toward battery.

Just my observations.
Click to expand...
Either place is fine for sure. My original cars owned by me both were in the factory place... Pic 1.
All of them I ever worked on when they were new were in that spot. I just wanted to make sure if someone was searching the forums for where the factory put them, they'd get the right location.
 

Wayne Waldrep

Before I post a pic, do you have one of yours?
20+ Year Stangneter
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#11
  • Feb 7, 2021
  • #11
Btw... From the factory it points down, not up. It just makes a U and goes back up. It can go under the bracket and point correctly downward.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
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Feb 7, 2021
#12
  • Feb 7, 2021
  • #12
I’m the only person to ever disassemble my car, and it was bolted to the block, not to the timing cover.

I may even have a picture from when I shot pics of all the wiring before I pulled everything apart.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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#13
  • Feb 7, 2021
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Ok, let me throw a curve ball at ya'll.
First let me say again the top pic is correct for factory stock.
The problem with attaching it to the bolt on the timing cover:
Steel bolt, good but you're putting an aluminum cover that has coolant running through it in between. Setting up corrosion possibility. (Electrolysis is less likely on that bolt but still)
Also think about the cover between the cable and the block, to me that is like putting a butt connector on a wire, it will work but there is a bigger possibility of failure later on.
I also say again that wire looks small to me.
Electricity does not care about bends, you can tie that wire in a knot and it don't care.
Just some thoughts from someone that is not a professional mechanic and is likely more lucky than skillful.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,244
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Feb 7, 2021
#14
  • Feb 7, 2021
  • #14
The more I think about it, the more you are correct. I change my answer. Use the top hole only.
 
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KRUISR

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#15
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Actually both locations are on the timing cover. The one I am advocating at least the bolt goes into the cast block (there is no coolant at that part of the cover).

The OPs current position is a bolt into the aluminum cover, yes likely near coolant. I stick with my recommendation as per the photo I attached.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,244
17,924
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Massachusetts
Feb 7, 2021
#16
  • Feb 7, 2021
  • #16
This is how mine was hooked from the factory.

given that both locations are in the AL timing cover I don’t think it matters much

 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 25, 2016
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#17
  • Feb 7, 2021
  • #17
You are absolutely correct about that, I now remember a discussion on this same subject and I made basically the same stupid rant and then realized I was incorrect.
But man I made a great argument on baseless facts, this is why most times I post the disclaimer about not being a real mechanic!
 
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HemiRick

I'd be looking at jacking under the house
Jun 28, 2020
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Feb 8, 2021
#18
  • Feb 8, 2021
  • #18
The ground cable should be bolted to the block, not the timing cover. Both will work, but the block is better long term.
 

sav22rem22

5 Year Member
Feb 6, 2020
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North Carolina
Feb 8, 2021
#19
  • Feb 8, 2021
  • #19
General karthief said:
That cable looks kinda small.
I agree with the first picture placement.
Click to expand...
I bought the cable from LMR so I honestly don’t know
 

Wayne Waldrep

Before I post a pic, do you have one of yours?
20+ Year Stangneter
Apr 14, 2003
1,338
659
143
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Feb 8, 2021
#20
  • Feb 8, 2021
  • #20
We've been thru this numerous times. There is no threaded hole at the factory location in the block other than the oil sending unit extension hole. So where could it possibly go? It came from the factory in the timing cover on hundreds of thousands of these cars. There's zero issue with it.
 
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