Pros/Cons to running a high volume oil pump compared to a stock oil pump?

5spd GT

"the 5.0 owns all"
Founding Member
Aug 7, 2002
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Arkansas
I'm doing a rebuild real soon here and was wondering why should I pick a high volume oil pump over a new stock oil pump?

I'm going to have a 306 (rebuilding) with my afr 165's/fti cam/performer intake...and I don't rev it past 6,000rpm (only when I'm racing I get up there)...

It is my 100% daily driver...

So do I need a high volume oil pump? Recommended? Why?

I know I would need a new shaft...

Thanks...

Do I really need that much oiling and does it take more power to turn?
 
I didn't check out Blake's link (BS for short) but a high volume oil pump has the cabibilty to suck your stock oil pan dry when you are in the upper RPM range of your new motor.

If you have a 7 quart oil pan, than you would be OK with the additional oil capacity.

The standard volume oil pump is the route I would go... (Melling Oil pump is the brand I would choose)



Edit: I just read BS's link... It's the same thing I wrote more or less. I guess that means mine is a double post.
 
srothfuss said:
I didn't check out Blake's link (BS for short) but a high volume oil pump has the cabibilty to suck your stock oil pan dry when you are in the upper RPM range of your new motor.

If you have a 7 quart oil pan, than you would be OK with the additional oil capacity.

The standard volume oil pump is the route I would go... (Melling Oil pump is the brand I would choose)





Edit: I just read BS's link... It's the same thing I wrote more or less. I guess that means mine is a double post.
Always good to have some people say the same:nice:
 
I run a high volume oil pump in my car, but I also have a 7qt. oil pan. If your using your stock pan, you would be better off with a regular pump IMHO. Either way, I would get the H/D oil pump shaft. And the H/V pumps do eat up a few H.P.
 
damnit I was beat to this thread..


I've had soo many ppl come through the shop that I work at get frustrated to the point of almost selling there car due to oil pressure issues..

its almost ALWAYS some high volume oil pump in a stock pan..


stock pan = stock oil pump

aftermarket = aftermarket oil pump
 
High volume oil pumps are for engines that have larger clearances such as many race motors. High pressure pumps are good for keeping hydrolic lifters pumped up. They suck dry oil pans and drag more HP off the motor. So unless you have an engine with large clearances or a high revving hydrolic lifter setup with really tight springs, your just wasting you time/HP and causing yourself more problems. A stock pump will make 60+psi, and if your engine is having oil starvation at those pressures, the problem isn't an oil pump.
 
90MustangGT hit it pretty dead on.... Also something that has not been metioned yet is that not only do HV pumps rob HP, can suck stock oil pans dry etc. etc. they also raise the oil temp since the oil is circulating at higher volumes...another draw back to an HV oil pump. Basically like said above the only time a HV pump is a good way to go is if your running excessive RPM's for an extended period of time or your engine was built clearenced fairly loose. Stock oil pumps produce enough pressure and volume for even a 500HP+ street engine...A Good idea though is to throw in a ARP or FRPP Chromeoly Steel Oil Pump Shaft on any engine build...(Cheap Insurance)

Shon
 
You don't need anything more than a stock pump. Have ever seen what an old oil pump drive shaft from a car that was beat on looks like? Imagine that 10x as bad. It's not necessary. The 5.0 is relatively a low rpm motor that has a very good oiling system.
 
From the Melling site, for those who didn't follow the link & read the tech note...

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High Volume Pumps: Advantages, Myths & Fables

Most of the stock automobile engines are designed to operate from idle to 4500 RPM. The original volume and pressure oil pump will work fine in this type of application. As the demands on the engine increase so does the demands on the oiling system and pump.

The oil pump's most difficult task is to supply oil to the connecting rod bearing that is the farthest from the pump. To reach this bearing, the oil travels from three to four feet, turns numerous square corners thru small holes in the crankshaft to the rod bearing. The rod bearing doesn't help matters. It is traveling in a circle which means centrifugal force is pulling the oil out of the bearing.

A 350 Chevy has a 3.4811 stroke and a 2.111 rod journal. The outer edge of the journal travels 17.5311 every revolution. At 1000 RPM, the outer edge is traveling at 16.6 MPH and 74.7 MPH at 4500 RPM. If we take this engine to 6500 the outer edge is up to 107.9 and at 8500 it is 141.1 MPH. Now imagine driving a car around a curve at those speeds and you can feel the centrifugal force. Now imagine doing it around a circle with a 5.581, diameter.

The size of the gears or rotors determines the amount of oil a pump can move at any given RPM. Resistance to this movement creates the pressure. If a pump is not large enough to meet the demands of the engine, there will not be any pressure. Or if the demands of the engine are increased beyond the pumps capabilities there will be a loss of oil pressure. This is where high volume pumps come in; they take care of any increased demands of the engine.

Increases in the engine's oil requirements come from higher RPM, being able to rev faster, increased bearing clearances, remote oil cooler and/or filter and any combination of these. Most high volume pumps also have a increase in pressure to help get the oil out to the bearings faster.

That is what a high volume pump will do. Now let Is consider what it will not do.


It will not replace a rebuild in a worn-out engine. It may increase pressure but the engine is still worn-out.

It will not pump the oil pan dry. Both solid and hydraulic lifters have metering valves to limit flow of the oil to the top of the engine. If a pan is pumped dry, it is because the holes that drain oil back to the pan are plugged. If the high volume pump is also higher pressure, there will be a slight increase in flow to the top.

It will not wear out distributor gears. The load on the gear is directly related to the resistance to flow. Oil pressure is the measure of resistance to flow. The Ford 427 FE "side oiler" used a pump with relief valve set at 125 psi and it used a standard distributor gear. Distributor gear failures are usually caused by a worn gear on a new cam gear and/or worn bearings allowing misalignment.

It will not cause foaming of the oil. With any oil pump, the excess oil not needed by the engine is recirculated within the pump. Any additional foaming is usually created by revving the engine higher. The oil thrown from the rod bearings is going faster and causes the foaming. This is why high performance engines use a windage tray.

It will not cause spark scatter. Because of the pump pressure there is a load on the distributor gear. The number of teeth on the oil pump gears determine the number of impulses per revolution of the pump. In a SB Chevy there are seven teeth on each gear giving 14 impulses per revolution. At 6000 RPM the oil pump is turning 3000 RPM or 50 revolutions per second. To have an effect on the distributor, these impulses would have to vibrate the distributor gear through an intermediate shaft that has loose connections at both ends. Spark scatter is usually caused by weak springs in the points or dust inside the distributor cap.

High volume pumps can be a big advantage if used where needed. If installed in an engine that does not need the additional volume, they will not create a problem. The additional flow will be recirculated within the pump.

Thanks to bubba-dough for helping to educate all of us...:nice:
 
VERY interesting article...thanks jrichker!! So were do/did all these myths come from then? Of course you have to remember that this article is coming from one of the biggest/most popular manufactures of stock & HV oil pumps....Of course there not going to knock HV pumps. Just a thought...Meling makes great products so I'm not knocking them or anything.

Shon
 
Mythbusters on Discover channel needs to do this one:)

I'm still going with a m68 melling (stock style with a hardened shaft)...but it is interesting to note. I will remember that...
 
srothfuss said:
I didn't check out Blake's link (BS for short) but a high volume oil pump has the cabibilty to suck your stock oil pan dry when you are in the upper RPM range of your new motor.

If you have a 7 quart oil pan, than you would be OK with the additional oil capacity.

The standard volume oil pump is the route I would go... (Melling Oil pump is the brand I would choose)



Edit: I just read BS's link... It's the same thing I wrote more or less. I guess that means mine is a double post.

Yup.
 
Just remember that if in the future if you ever want to get a bigger (7qt) oil pan so you can add something like a windage tray or stud girlde, ya might as well do it now while the motor is out.