Pulled some serious codes....possibly relating to my skipping while cruising problem?

[BlackFox5.0]

jrichker, I got come interesting codes....

These are my codes:

KOER
94 Thermactor
44 Thermactor

KOEO
15 ROM Test Failure (because I have my tweecer plugged in??? )
81 Thermactor
82 Thermactor
95 Fuel Pump circuit problem (this is what I find interesting...)

Continuous
41 O2 sensor signal (I was driving around with O2's unplugged to see if they were the problem, that might have caused this) the site you posted says this code means "System was lean for 15 seconds or more (no HO2S switching)"

66 No MAF signal (It's plugged in and working )
91 System lean, FP out of range (It's at 53psi) or injectors out of balance
95 Fuel Pump circuit problem (again)

And for the balance test, I got a 9

Now, codes that are stored as continuous, they are codes that went off, and were stored, but haven't returned, else they would we in one of the KO tests, right?

Oh yeah these codes were not in the computer prior to me checking codes when my fuel pump feed line popped off the intank pump. (which I didn't know happened therefore the reason for me to check for codes)

And all the EGR codes have always been there since I do not have it hooked up because I don't think it works...

 

[HO93LX302]

did you happen to check your spark plug wires at all?? they could be grounding out to something causing the skip, or maybe even bad plugs.. Your fuel pressure is at 53psi?? is that with the vacuum line on?

 

[BlackFox5.0]

I checked everything. My FP is at 53psi with the vacuum off.....and it still runs lean

 

[noslow5_0]

I checked everything. My FP is at 53psi with the vacuum off.....and it still runs lean

maybe your o2's are shoot???

 

[BlackFox5.0]

Nope just put in another set, and they are working. I would get a code if the O2s were dead...

I keep getting MAF voltage below specified minimum voltage....in my tweecer the minimum voltage is 0.3xxxxx volts....which is the stock computer setting. i could lower it to zero, but thats kinda like cheating and avoiding the problem. I'm going to test my maf for voltage again and see what i get now......

 

[noslow5_0]

Nope just put in another set, and they are working. I would get a code if the O2s were dead...

I keep getting MAF voltage below specified minimum voltage....in my tweecer the minimum voltage is 0.3xxxxx volts....which is the stock computer setting. i could lower it to zero, but thats kinda like cheating and avoiding the problem. I'm going to test my maf for voltage again and see what i get now......

oh really?? i thought that pro-m had a recommended voltage at idle of .6-.9 volts??? dont qoute me on that though..... you still do have that pro-m maf right??

 

[BlackFox5.0]

I still have the Pro-M on i put the stock meter back on and calibrated it with tweecer, and I was getting the same voltages.....on one wire i was getting something like 0.03v I think, and on the other wire i was getting like .467v if i remeber correctly

I lowered the minimum voltage to 0v with the tweecer, and the code didn't come back....

So If the sotck meter AND the pro-m are putting out the same voltages, then what could the problem be?

I keep getting code 95 which is "Fuel pump secondary circuit failure." When I did my MAF conversion it was an option to hook up wires to stop this code from showing, and I'm pretty sure I hooked up those wires as i remember running the wires across the dash from the drivers side kick panel to the passenger side.....

I found this which is the code, and description, and i think a hint on what it's about, a computer ground, wtf...? "95 - Fuel pump secondary circuit failure - PCM to ground"

What the hell is the secondary circuit, and how do I check to make sure it's working!!! ahhhh!

 

[noslow5_0]

well i guess you could start checking the grounds for your computers?? there all suppose to read less then .4 ohms i believe??

 

[BlackFox5.0]

I don't think it's as simple as that.... it's some kind of circuit problem......which obviously is related to the fuel pump somehow....., I'll check that out and see if it's checks out ok...

Also when I turn on the key the fuel pump primes, but the rail is very loud, it sounds like a hiss, it's not leaking however. If i put a long screwdriver to the rail, and hold it to my ear and listen, it definately comes from the rail, but only on the passenger side. Since the return line is connected to the feed line along the intake, I thought that maybe it was the return line pushing fuel back into the tank....i also listened to all the injectors with the screwdriver, and they are all ticking

 

[jrichker]

To help troubleshoot the 95 code , follow this link for a wiring diagram http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

Using the diagram, check the red/black wire from the fuel pump relay: you should see 12 volts or so. If not, check the inertia switch: on a hatch it is on the drivers side by the taillight. Look for a black rubber plug that pops out: if you don't find it, then loosen up the plastic trim. Check for voltage on both sides of the switch. If there is voltage on both sides, then check the Pink/black wire on the fuel pump relay: it is the power feed to the fuel pump. Good voltage there, then the fuel pump is the likely culprit since it is getting power. No voltage there, check the Orange/lt blue wire, it is the power feed to the fuel pump relay & has a fuse link in it. Good voltage there & at the Pink/black wire, swap the relay.

Code 84 - EGR Vacuum Regulator - Solenoids. The EGR vacuum regulator solenoid is inop, missing vacuum, broken vacuum lines, vacuum leaks, or bad electrical wiring from the computer or no power to the solenoid.

Codes 94 & 44 - Check vacuum lines for leaks, & cracks. Disconnect the big hose from smog pump: with the engine running you should feel air output. Reconnect the smog pump hose & apply vacuum to the first vacuum controlled valve: Its purpose is to either dump the pump's output to the atmosphere or pass it to the next valve. The next vacuum controlled valve directs the air to either the cylinder heads when the engine is cold or to the catalytic converter when the engine is warm. Disconnect the big hoses from the back side of the vacuum controlled valve and start the engine. Apply vacuum to the valve and see if the airflow changes from one hose to the next.

The two electrical controlled vacuum valves mounted on the rear of the passenger side wheelwell turn the vacuum on & off under computer control. Check to see that both valves have +12 volts on the red wire. Then ground the white/red wire and the first solenoid should open and pass vacuum. Do the same thing to the light green/black wire on the second solenoid and it should open and pass vacuum.

Remember that the computer does not source any power, but provides the ground necessary to complete the circuit. That means one side of the circuit will always be hot, and the other side will go to ground or below 1 volt as the computer switches on that circuit.

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host)

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif

For a cylinder balance a 9 is good, all cylinders passed the test.

 

[BlackFox5.0]

I'm not worried about the EGR related codes, I've always had them....

Do you think that my car running lean might be computer related? I used a stephascope type method and listened to my injectors, and they are all firing. I took my fuel rail out, and cleaned it up. it's not possible to clog.

One of the ears on my upper intake was cracked and JB welded (i got it like that) and the JB cracked, but i resealed it but oil from the intake came out though that crack, so i think i might have had a small vacuum leak there, but I don't think it's enough to lean out the entire engine, would it? I'm not putting the intake one till i get it welded, which I might be able to have done tomorrow....